Chad_A

Hey, Dan, just saw this. Things are great! Love the area, but haven't had much chance to do anything. Moved here in the fall; did lots of time back and forth between PDX and here while the house was on the market. Sold in December, and we closed on our new house in March after much looking around. Spent the last month digesting all our stuff and getting resettled/organized. Hope to get back into the 'pine this month. Mainly been doing lots of trail running, and mountain biking on my days off. Made me think of you, since the trail running here seems to be pretty good. I'll send you an email soon. Sorry to thread hijack; anyone else coming down? Tyson, if you're still going to be there I'll bring down those boots for you to try out (both pair).

I should be able to make it.

Ok, I'll see you there. Look for a guy in horned rim glasses and a beard. (Which will undoubtedly look like the other 20 people there.)

I don't know if anyone is interested, but I think I'll go to REI B'ham on Tuesday for Steph Abegg's show at 6pm, and head to BB after that, or to a place where others would want to meet. Pizza Pipeline has a good tap selection, too. Not too keen on Chuckanut. Of course, all this is theoretical...maybe Tyson already has a plan in effect? Either way, I'll be at Steph's show if anyone else wants to meet up. You can register here for the show. About 20 seats left. http://www.rei.com/event/3196/session/3810

Guess I need to check in here more often. You guys can add me to the list, or send me an email at anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet I also spend time down at the YMCA gym many mornings before going to work- they have key access from 6-9am most days of the week. Tyson, sorry I've been out of the loop. Went on a couple more ice trips to the Great White North, and since then just been getting moved into the new house. Keep in touch. -Chad

What a great TR! Thanks for posting this up. Revives my lust for seeking out this kind of thing. Glad you had a good time, and great pictures.

Do you take paypal? Shoot me a pm.

Oleg, good to see you're falling back into your old ways- trips up the the Eliot. Keep in touch; you have to come up North and visit sometime (and climb). -Chad

Well, I know where I'll get my desktop photos from for the near future. Thanks for posting that up, Al. Good seeing you up in BC. Shoot me a PM sometime, or I'll buy you a brew down at Boundary Bay- let me know. -Chad

They're not calling it mastic tape, but it sure looks like it from the pictures on that website. Could be the same thing.

I go to the electrical section at Home Depot and get mastic tape. Basically a roll of sticky rubber electical tape. Had mine on for two seasons, pretty resistant to water and wear.

Partner(s) found. Thanks for all the replies.

I'll take the other two screamers, Colin.

Or any combination thereof. Can leave Thursday, or later. Never been to Lillooet but maybe it's time. Would prefer trip of two days or more (or, more accurately, two days of climbing, minimum). I have a full kit- you just have to throw in some crampons and tools, and either know Lillooet, or be patient while I figure it out. Chad anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet Or, PM me here. email is preferable.

Just relocated up here; have a couple contacts but nothing consistent yet. Work is finally settling in, the house is sold in Portland, and the family leaves after the holiday season in a couple days. More or less, want to meet some people that are interested in relatively "local" ice. Also, just having a someone consistent to pull on plastic at the YMCA would be awesome, too, and probably just as important. Bellingham pub clubs at Boundary Bay are a plus. Have all the ice gear necessary, just bring your tools, harness and 'pons. I won't be putting up any WI5+ this year as of yet (see the YMCA training comment) but will be willing to take the sharp end if said partner is not inclined to. Contact me at anderson7149ATcomcastDOTnet or PM me here. Email works better. -Chad

As I'm sure you've all assumed, consider the road snowed in now. Had my Jeep stuck for a little while last night. Looked doable from the open gate but drifting and snow depth increased significantly only a couple miles up the road.

Spectacular. Thanks for posting. Great pics!

Great stoke; thanks for the post.

X2. I have also spoken with the police dept downtown near City Hall for past trips. I called them to let them know about the car being left in the public parking right there. They said no worries, and that it should be fine. Might be nice to give them a call and let them know about your car. Last year, a partner left a car there last year for an ice trip (for about a week) and didn't have any issues, and I've had similar good experiences for three years in a row now.

Alpine Safety Awareness Program 10th Annual ASAP Dinner + Fundraiser - 11.7.09 10th Annual all-you-can-eat fish tacos with live music and an auction/raffle at Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro in Bellingham. http://www.bbaybrewery.com/ Tickets: $10.00 each, $30.00 for families. Might be down there, if climbing doesn't work out that weekend. Just saw this posted on their website, and passed a flyer on the way out of Boundary Bay this evening. Sounds like a good cause. Maybe a good reason for the Bellingham cc.com knuckleheads to have a pub club.

While you're at it, Will Gadd's book on Ice/Mixed Climbing is pretty good, IMHO.

Oh my goodness. My best condolences to you and your family. I can't imagine what that feels like.

What an awesome TR; had to come out of retirement here to post. Way to get at it from a completely different part of the mountain. Great pics, too. Cheers, Chad

Thought about posting as a TR, but didn't, as "TR" usually means you actually tried to attempt the route. We went up today (Vince and I) to check out March Madness; a pal of mine had seen it from the top of the Palmer and thought that it might be in. Wayne, is this your idea of WI4???? :: Sick bastard- So, we went and had a look see. From afar it does look doable, but walking up to it, it sure didn't look like it to us. Putting an ice tool into it made the "ice" crumble. I'd never seen anything like it before...water ice, with rime formed on top of it, looking like water ice forming on the rime ice...bizarre. We went up the South Chamber to pick around on the rime to see if we could find a moderate line to get to the top, but with a tool stick and a pull-down, it would just explode into powder, or simply rip through with very little effort. At any rate, it was such a nice day up there, though I'd share some pics. The lenticular swallowed the upper part of the mountain as I was reaching the parking lot, and was descending down on the towers as we drove off. Enjoy the views, we sure did. It was nice to get some unexpected sun today. Cheers, Chad

Good to hear the reports. I guess, like Wayne said, be back early. Might be nice to go poke around up there the next day or two before everything turns to sliding slush.