John Frieh

I think we are all aware of the entropy concept I retire all my gear as it degrades... just not my mammut runners after 2 years.

Various pull test breaking strengths... Metolius UL power cam: 5 - 10 kN BD camalots: 6 - 14 kN CCH Aliens: 1.8 - 3.5 kN Metolius Astro Nuts: 7 - 10 kN BD stoppers: 2 - 10 kN Joe: even @ 7 - 10 kN slings are not the weakest link in the chain. Do you secretly work for Mammut? Or have a bunch of Dyneema stock? Anyone retiring their skinny slings shoot me a PM... Ill give them a good home.

Any pics?

Beginning Jan 8th CrossFitHEL is adding a second FREE Work Out of the Day (WOD). Every Tuesday @ 7 pm and/or Saturday @ 1pm anyone curious about xfit even if you have never done xfit before or very little (this means you Melissa) is encouraged to drop in for a free session. Check the website either the day of or the night before to see where we will be working out Be ~10 minutes early so you have time to warm up Hope to see some new faces soon!

Updated Catch me if you can!

Would it be possible to add in a "date range" search option to the TR Index? Ex: Be able to search for climbs done in the alpine lakes region between Dec 200x and Feb 200x+1

Timing is everything: December 31st 2007 courtesy of the great John Scurlock

iceclimbingcolorado.com Cody is having its best year in a long long time... shorter drive for you for better routes

29/m/185 75# Thruster 24 kg KB 75# C/J 46:58

1 pm tomorrow (Dec 22): the lab 4830 NE Martin Luther King Portland, OR. 97211 Be 10 minutes early so you have time to warm up. It isn't running but it will push you aerobically as hard or harder than running. I promise. 503/758/5772 if you have any questions

Might have some. When are you back?

One Arm Bandit is WI5, 235 m. Very short chimney section (the book calls it a chockstone). If you like chimneys put Birdbrain on the list. You'll love Cody Dru! You won't need your velcro gloves as most of the baa come equipped with handles! See...!?!?

WA "enhanced license" = CA driver's license? Thanks... just confirmed with a few others

bump Anyone tried the DL + BC recently?

I watched Sean Issac climb M8 in a pair of BD contacts (10 point horizontal front point crampons) and plastic boots... I'm convinced just about anyone can climb hard routes in just about anything if they put the time in learning the subtleties of what every piece of equipment they choose... pick a pair and climb on them as much as you can... I'd bet just about any one on this page that it isn't their gear that is holding them back from harder routes. Sarkens are/were a great crampon... I traded mine for dartwins largely because I didnt own a pair of vertical dual point pons... I really like them so far... they don't displace as much as ice as the sarkens did. I am on my third pair of darts and I really like them also. I know Don Serl has raved about the Vasak for pure ice also. Hope this helps!

Dont know. I'm guessing the FA team. PS: Red Jacket = me

Trip: Ice Bender - Cody, WY & Montana Date: 12/13/2007 Summary: Day 0: PDX -> SEA -> BZN -> Cody, WY Day 1: Sendero Iluminoso (1 p/55 m), The Moratorium (2 p/100 m) Day 2: Bitches Brew (1st 2 p only/70 m) Day 3: One Arm Bandit (6 p/235 m) Day 4: Too Cold to Fire (1 p/70 m), Cody -> Bozeman Day 5: Bozeman -> East Rosebud Canyon, MT: California Ice (4 p/200 m) -> Bozeman Day 6 (today!): BZN -> SEA -> PDX Slander and Lies: So after ~5 months of dirt bagging and womanizing (and maybe a little climbing ) his way across the United States Bryan (Powderhound) was back in Bozeman to get ready to start his Master’s next term and called to see if I could escape the clutches of the cube farm and come out for some ice climbing before he was buried in books. As usual Bryan’s timing was impeccable: I had just been assigned to a new boss at work which can only mean one thing: Ummm… so… yeah… I like have some vacation that I haven’t used yet and it ummm… is going to expire at the end of this year. So yeah. Some vacation. I think if they actually kept track of it they’d realize I owe them like 4 years of uninterrupted work. I packed the bags and hopped a flight to BZN. Bryan met me at the airport still sporting the same mohawk he shaved the day he left for the crusades 5 months earlier… ice climbing and mohawks… could this trip get any better? It did: Cody was currently enjoying epic fatness. We pointed the car south and were in Cody that evening. Day 1: eeny-meeny-miney-moe So word on the street was that Sendero Iluminoso was in after a decade hiatus. JoJo describes Sendero in Winter Dance as When formed, the first pitch of this route is perhaps the most aesthetic in the entire book... We hustled off to climb Sendero Iluminoso before it got beat out... When formed Sendero is roughly 18” wide and very thin (think 10s and 13s) for a good portion of the route. Sendero Iluminoso: Can you see it? Following Sendero we ran over to The Moratorium… though The Moratorium forms more often than Sendero it is another Cody route that doesn’t form every year. So how fat is Cody this year? Compare this photo to the one on p270 in Winter Dance. Smoke 'em if you got 'em Moratorium pitch 2 Day 2: Day 2 saw us head up the Deer Creek drainage for another rarely forming Cody route Bitches Brew. We should have known better as this route was a Todd "Mr South Fork" Cozzens problem child. Bitches Brew p1: Bryan stole my pitch by linking 1 and 2 which brought us to this: Cody 5+ We hung out for awhile to see if the pillar would go back into the shade (which it didnt). We waited for a bit before Bryan headed up... Bryan climbed up to the business, took a long look at it and declined. I was glad he did as I doubted my ability to follow that pitch in the condition that it was in. Day 3: Bummed that we hadn't completed a longer Cody route yet (Bitches Brew was suppose to be 5 pitches) we headed up to One Arm Bandit. One Arm Bandit: climbers left Yes the book is right: the approach sucks but it's worth it As Bryan sucks at estimating how much rope is left he ended up simuling p1 and 2 with me. One Arm Bandit p1: Pitch 3: the business So when fully formed the LH pillar touches down... as you can see it isn't. After some discussion we thought the ice in the back of the chimney could go... it did He just... ...might... ...go... ...all... ...the way!!! STOKED @ the top of 3: Bryan brought me up and we punched it for the top. To The Top! 3 pitches, 2 ice screws, and 0 change overs brought us to the top of the ice. We hiked up a little further to see if any unclimbed ice had happened to make an appearance considering the conditions but no ice was found so we headed for the car. I snapped a pic of p2 while on rap in case you were wondering what the chimney looks like. Day 4: As we had plans to climb near Bozeman on Day 5 we opted to make Day 4 a 1/2 day. We headed back up the Deer Creek drainage for Too Cold to Fire. Deer Creek: Too Cold to Fire: We soloed the initial steps Too Cold: Bryan: After Too Cold we hiked another 10 minutes up Deer Creek where you can see a sandstone arch over the frozen river as well as huge sandstone walls. Absolutely beautiful! I'd post some pics but I think I am setting a new record for # of pics in a TR so I'm going to leave them out. Highly highly recommended if you have the time. Though we were sad to leave Cody we hiked out packed the car and headed to Bozeman. Cody: Goodbye for now... Secret shortcut back to Bozeman! Day 5: Somehow we managed to pull our tired, sore butts out of bed and get an alpine start for East Rosebud Canyon. zoom zoom: East Rosebud Canyon hosts a number of ice routes including California Ice... a route both of us have wanted to climb for awhile. In addition to ice routes the canyon has some huge granite faces and spires... After a short jaunt on the trail we hit the drainage that leads to Cali Ice and started up. Always dress appropriately :laf: Dream of californication I'm going going... ...back back to Cali Cali Bryan took p1... I took p2 to the top of the WI4 section. Bryan came up and we simuled the last two pitches to the top of the ice. At this point the weather started to deteriorate... Bryan: Spindrifter: Looking down the route: To The Top! To The Car! We stopped in Absorkee for a and to sign the wall @ the five spot. We then rushed back to Bozeman only to find out I wasn't holding the right cards... what can I say... story of my life. Bryan and I ended up hitting McKenzie River Pizza for some non paleo food and drink before succumbing to food coma and the culminative effects of 5 days of ice climbing. Epilogue: All good things come to an end and well I'm back at the cube farm reading email that the Stanley Headwall is in super fat right now. Hmmm... I wonder at what temperature do laptop screens freeze at...? Cheers to Bryan for my first trip to Cody! Is it officially winter yet? Gear Notes: Winter Dance by Joe Josephson Stumptown

Bump. Cody is off to an awesome start... lots of rare routes are in. Also Bison Willy's is reopen for business so you can stay in the canyon.

:lmao: Well... at least now you have next year's Xmas card covered :laf: Team Harro pulling into an early lead for most days of ice this year... the race is on!

Nice TR Jason! Too bad we didnt bump into you guys... maybe next time.

Have you guys done that WOD before? What were the best time(s)? What loads for the KB, Clean/Jerk, etc etc?

On Friday, Dec 14th, 2007, CrossFit Human Evolution Labs is having a holiday party for all members, member candidates, and guests. The party will start at 4:00PM and go until everyone leaves. RSVP's are encouraged so they can get an idea on how much food to get - and how many kegs to get! To RSVP, call or email. www.crossfithel.com Good opportunity to see what crossfit is all about.

Can't make this one... unfortunately rarely formed ice routes east of here require my immediate attention Everyone should drink one for me and buy Mr Bill Coe a for being such a great guy! Happy holidays you nerds!

Latest update on Access: www.hyalite.org

Reports from the festival: http://www.firstascentpress.com/icebreaker.html