John Frieh

Yeah... all the money you will save will go straight into your gas tank and paying psychiatrist bills for the 1-2 hours you will spend each day idling your car on I-5 counting the planes land at PDX... unless of course you can find employment in the couv... I did hear that they do have excellent history teachers at Camas HS though

commuting tip of the day: measure your commute by time not distance troutdale. gresham. beaverton. tigard. oregon city. sandy. milwaukie... different city names... same strip mall sprawl my advice would be live where you live if your work is your life then by all means live close to it. if climbing is your life live close to a climbing area. if your boys are your life live in a good school district. if you value all the things that makes PDX great then you should live in PDX... and not commute to it every evening. etc etc etc PS PDX is way way way more houses than apartments so you can still live in the city and not have to live in an apartment.

Check thread daily. Even better post in it! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/427588/page/1#Post427588

headed to beacon about 4 today How about rocky on thursday? Bill: my hands are still healing (again) so you and I should compliment each other just fine

how late are you going to stay out there?

Found 1 - #10 BD hex (non anodized version) just below east face of Chianti few weekends ago. ID cord color it is slung with and I can return it to you.

time for a trip back to bear?

So how do you keep the skinny line from feeding through the rap device faster than the fat line and then subsequently start sawing through the rappel sling? My tag line is ~5 meters longer than my lead line to account for stretch of the lead/fat line... this extra also allows for some movement of the knot on the sling... whoever raps second always repositions the knot back against the rap sling prior to rapping though as some slippage does occur... I have never seen so much slippage or at a rate that cuts/melts the rap sling. What I do to minimize the amount of movement is I put an extra biner on just the skinny line side (total of 2) for rapping... the extra surface area seems to give enough friction so that the skinny line moves at about the same rate as the fat line... it helps that I don't climb on anything larger than 9.4 in the alpine also. I can take a pic if that would help.

When using a tag line I rap both lines... when I set up the rap I set it up so that I am pulling the lead line (not the tag line) so that if the rope some how gets stuck when pulling the rap and I am forced to cut what I did manage to pull down/remains I am cutting the lead line... I set it up this was as I personally rather continue down with a piece of lead line not tag line.

Nice TR! Going south -> north is a little harder IMO but with the road washout you guys didn't have much option. Bachelor Creek is teh suck but I always tell myself at least it isn't the approach to Bear You have 2 Honda Trail 90s!?!?! You should sell me one! Or both! Those are awesome bikes!

:laf: I made a deal with the devil (myself?!?!) that for every cup of coffee I drink I have to do 3 muscle ups consecutively. Seems like a fair trade... Are you zoning it yet?

Nice TR Melissa! Tell the kidlets and Mr rmncwrtr excellent work!

With that kind of fire power you should have just climbed at night and avoided the t storms all together then again whiskey + stumptown = serious toilet time Unless of course I am the devil and then it would be my brew

Awesome website: http://www.simplefit.org/ similar to crossfit but simplified and no equipment necessary give it a try for a couple of weeks and see what you think!

I have all of Justin Timberlake's music including all the remixes.... on vinyl. Cue jokes in 3... 2... 1...

No sarcasm meant but I will say I was confused about what "role" you were shopping for... you said you had a goal "similar to the originator of this thread" which rereading it sounds like a pair of tools that climb both "vertical and alpine ice"... yes? I read that as "climbing ice"... yes? Maybe I'm soapboxing here but when I hear "vertical ice" I think "water ice"... additionally when I hear "alpine ice" I think "water ice in the alpine"... unless luckymike/you is referring to schrunds, crevesses, etc which is "glacial ice" water ice is easier to climb with a lighter tool (aztarex, light wing, etc) as water ice isn't as dense as glacial ice. it will require a tad bit more vigilance with one's swing but still doable. glacial ice is more dense than water ice and will require some big shoulder/excellent swing dynamic to get a good stick with light tools. doable but plan on working harder look at it this way: if your goal is routes with lots of slogging and not a lot of ice a lighter tool will be faster (think liberty ridge, etc etc) as though you will be slower on the ice part (as compared to someone with heavier tools) you will be faster on the slog part (less weight to carry) if your forsee a route that has either more ice or some mixed terrain (think curtis ridge) a tool with a little more headweight and some clearance to save your knuckles would be a wiser choice and faster as you dont have to swing as much to get a good stick if you forsee both of these style routes get a heavier tool and just be in better physical condition (5 pullups, 10 pushups, and 15 air squats for every minute on cc.com perhaps ) hope this helps!

this could be a good opportunity to test out some aliens also! I have a few new hybrids I haven't whipped on yet

Nice dude! What is next on your list? Trying to squeeze anything in before school starts?

shannon's first time outside polka dot tights: oh so pimpin

i will lower it myself using only my teeth so that I can do handstand pushups continuously while lowering it if you guys need a drill, beater ropes, etc etc let me know

Can anyone else vouch for the Aztarex for this role? I've got a similar goal as the originator of this thread. I tried the Quark's this weekend on an outing and liked them. I'm not sure they'd be great for plunging in snow on steep alpine stuff because of the handle shape. A compromise might be the Aztar's, which also have a handle. Any comments out there? The other tool I tried was the Grivel Light. It has a straighter handle/shaft than the Aztar and worked well on the steep ice... not quite as well as the Aztar though. What role is that? Climbing ice? Yes they climb ice. Quarks plunge fine. So do Aztars and Aztarexs. If the snow is too firm/hard to plunge a quark (or any tool with a fang for that matter) that means it is firm enough to use the ice tool in either piolet ancre or piolet panne position. Chouinard Climbing Ice Chapters 3 and 4 for further discussion.

the basics: - east and west is divided by the river - north and south is divided by burnside street keep in mind: - no sales tax... now is the time to buy that new rope, etc etc - buses, trams, light rail, street cars... oh my! mass transit here works... some of it is even free! give it a go! The short list... stuff in the Hawthorne/Belmont neighborhood (aka where you are staying aka walking distance) which is in SE PDX: - stumptown coffee (which you can get in SEA) - I'd pick Aalto Lounge over Horse's Brass any day unless you like the idea of second smoke induced lung cancer - Other SE bars near where you are staying: Sapphire Hotel, Bar of the Gods - Bagdad is okay but at the end of the day it is still a McMenamins which means the beer is so so at best at least compared to what else you can get in town - there is a powells (used books) on Hawthorne but go to the one in NW Other SE PDX: - lots of music shops... - OMSI (bodyworks 3 currently) - drinking: noble rot (if you like wine more than beer), doug fir (at least worth a walk around inside), produce row NE/North PDX: - crossfithel - drinking: rocket (oh so pimpin), amnesia - coffee: albina press, fresh pot, - music millennium NW PDX - lots and lots of records stores (vinyl) along burnside (both sides) - powells (plan on 1/2 a day if you are a reader) - voodoo doughnuts... NyQuil: enough said - ecotrust building: home of patagonia, ecotrust/salmon nation, etc... beautiful beautiful building SW PDX - ride the tram - one of the many farmers market every wed and sun - walk on waterfront (east and west) - circuit bouldering gym (at least walk around... amazing terrain) Do you have access to a car? If so... - columbia gorge - beacon - mt hood

My charming personality and rugged good looks is plenty magical on their own... wouldn't want to over do it Friday is out for you Bill right?

can i bring a newbie for a se corner introduction (no soloing) and then you and i get into trouble?

Nice work guys! Great climb huh? IMO it is on par with N ridge of stuart... just a more wild/remote... It still waits a second ascent! A 7 pitch grade VI! How bad can it be? Those cracks are awesome! Highly recommended!