John Frieh

Have you done the Idaho version? I need to scan my slides but man oh man it was hot...

I don't know anything... remember?

Hand jammies and heel spurs... the end is near I tell you. I predict the next "climbers" will be content just to see what the smallest hold is they can hang off of... Sharma will somehow hang from his left hand pinky off a quarter pad dimple set in a horizontal roof... I predict a new grading system... think about it... first came rock climbing to train for the mountains, then sport/gym climbing to train for rock climbing, now bouldering to train for sport climbing... the end is near... what are these mountains you speak of?

I have a friend who went up about a month ago (he didn't top out); he doesn't post on this board though. What questions do you have and I can pass them on.

Finger of Fate is in Idaho (close to the sawtooths/elephant’s perch and company): as good (personally I think better than) outer space... a true classic. I have the topo/beta; let me know if you'd like it. If you practice, you can easily bust the upper ridge in a day car to car, if not the entire ridge. Not having bivy gear on your back will only increase you enjoyment of this already classic route (and you won’t have to haul big bags on the gendarme pitches). And as evil as it sounds, I loved passing people on that route grunting big packs. Some guy asked me where my bivy gear was and I told him I was wearing it (I had shorts on). There are a number of things you can do to prepare for the ridge as well as things to do while on the route. A few things to do on the route: approach from the Leavenworth and go out the Cle Elum side (will require a car shuttle though, but worth it), simul anything 5.7 or easier (try to get at least 4 normal length pitches per lead change, if not more), and practice. Practice wise here goes: All the routes listed are great recommendations; you might also want to consider climbing east and/or west ridge of Forbidden, especially if you are new to ridge climbing. The west ridge is great simul terrain. Also look into the West Face of NEWS (do it the same day you do NW corner… you can aid the 5.11 easily) a great climb and it stays cool even on the hottest days. And if you really want to experience OWs, climb Chianti spire. The second pitch will swallow you (10 inches!). Which reminds me of my favorite OW quote: it’s like sex… just get in there and wiggle around until you find something that works… (I might add don’t pump out early…). While you are up there, climb Burgundy (do one one day and the other the next). Some link ups at crags might also be a consideration (definitely easier at some crags compared to others). My favorite at smith goes like this: Climb super slab, rap, climb Moscom, hike misery to Monkey’s, climb Monkey’s via the pioneer variation, rap, climb Trezlar, rap, climb Spiderman (if no line), rap, climb ski ridge, rap, climb white satin, rap, and finally climb zebra/zion (the true test if you can climb any 5.10 after a long day) and karate crack if you have any gas left in the tank. And take at least one pack with you (have the second wear it). Speaking of packs: regardless of whether you opt for one day or two, you will end up probably wearing a pack on the route (I highly recommend the Grivel Manu) for water and shoes storage; practice these routes with that stuff on your back. And Matt is right; the OW isn’t that bad and more importantly it is one mini pitch of the big picture. If anything its more fist in size, which if you practice you will walk (hopefully with a small pack). Let the board or me know if you want more beta, pictures, etc. All this talk about this route is making me wish its summer.

I heard the underground guide is a chapter in the new smith guide book.

Hand and fist cracks. The second pitch of Finger of Fate is very close in size to the fist crack (though a little bigger). Do orbit and outer space in a half day; the upper pitches of OS will help (avoid the temptation to use the chickheads). Additionally all the belay changes on these routes will help you get up the ridge faster (practice makes perfect...). Are you planning on simuling any of the route? One day or two? Entire ridge or upper?

I agree they are aid (as I think tape is also); but I thought I'd still stir the pot: if sticky rubber on your hands is aid; why isn't sticky rubber on your feet aid? And why aren't people ranting about chalk? Chalk does much more environmental impact than hand jammies... eye sore anyone? On positive aspect that I support: anyone using them in place of tape does cut down on waste. Reuse!

I posted a few of the pictures I took on the climb in my gallery. There is one of the berg (as of 5/8) for those of you considering this climb.

Wireless PDA on treadmill as we speak... Sometimes I love my job.

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Just use the ignore user option people. Once he realizes that we all view him the same way all the girls do in his community college classes, he'll have to go back to trolling RPG websites and match.com. JoshK: I was thinking the same thing, but realized it would require us to sink to his level. Perhaps we should consider enacting a rule of one climbing TR per quarter or something. Just a thought.

Turkey has been freed a few times. luvshaker: are you referring to rock or alpine or both? If rock, talk to Jim Anglin (I can get you contact); he knows all the rock. If alpine, I will quote my friend Brock: "It hasn't been done yet because its bullshit..." Don't waste your time here... go to the Ruth Gorge.

Yup. Still awaits a winter ascent... and they say the North Face of Eiger is thee North Face to do...

Wasn't that done in October? I don't want to split hairs or dis bubba, but playing by the rules it doesn't count as a winter ascent (if I have the date right). Yes it was winter conditions, but...

Cot damn if that's accurate... makes you wonder how much longer before the emperor face goes down in winter.

Nope... but chances are I was too busy looking out for elephant traps on the way out that I walked right past him. Is he in there scoping what I think he is? Comments DPS?

I thought it had already been done in winter a few years ago... is that what you are referring too? Man that's a hot route...

I looked for it but didn't see it... descent tunnel vision I guess. Did you ask the other crew that did Ice Cliff? I am headed back up there again soon so I can keep an eye out. J

Care to identify the genesis? Dare I say it (and I hope it's not the case), but those could qualify as some classic last words...

Identify route (approx. location/pitch), manufacturer, and approx. size and I'll gladly return it.

Assuming you're not being sarcastic; I would think mounties would want to make an extra effort to attend such events; especially if you are in search of a dose of climbing reality. I'm not trying to start yet another mountie bash session, but I think you will (or perhaps have already discovered yourself) that once you start pursuing climbs of greater difficulty, you will find that you take less than you did on some day hikes you did with the mounties. What am I trying to say? I’ve met many ex-mounties, but never someone that climbed for years and then joined the mounites. See you at the next event!

A frameless pack will just keep you honest on what you should and shouldn’t' take on those long approaches. The BD price tag makes it a sweet deal, but it seems like you could do with out a lot of the extra stuff (a.k.a weight) on the bag. I'd recommend trying out the Chaos and the Wild Things Ice Sac and buy the one that feels better. I love my ice sac (and andinista for that matter). Also check out granite gear and grivel's offering in alpine packs.

Might want to reconsider that alpine start policy... Good trip report; by chance did you get any photos of girth?

MVS: How was the ice step(s)? Comments?