John Frieh

Anybody have an update?

Word. Knowledge and judgement: the two best tools you can take into the backcountry... useless without each other but priceless when used in conjuction.

Yeah.... Harlem streets stay flooded in white powder Like those mother f-ckers runnin' away from the twin towers Gun shots rock the earth like a meteor shower Bowling For Columbine, fair, giving the media power Innocence devoured like a chicken spot snack box Government cocain cooked into ghetto crack rock Corrupt cops false testimony at your arraignment Check to check, constant struggle to make the payments Working your whole life wondering where the day went The subway stays pakced like a multi-cultural slave ship It's rush hour, 2:30 to 8, non stoppin' And people coming home after corporate share croppin And f-ck flossin, mothers are trying to feed children But gentrification is kicking them out of their building A generation of babies born without health care Families homeless, thrown the fuck off of the welfare It's like Cambodia the killing fields uptown We live in distress and hang the flag upside down The sound of conservative politicians on television People in the hood are blind so they tell us to listen They vote for us to go to war instantly But none of their kids serving the infantry The odds are stacked against us like a casino Think about it, most of the army is black and latino And if you can't acknowledge the reality of my words You just another stupid mother f-cker out on the curb Trying to escape from the ghetto with your ignorant ways But you can't read history at an illiterate stage And you can't raise a family on minimum wage Why the f-ck you think most of us are locked in a cage I give niggaz the truth, cause they pride is indigent You better off rich and guilty than poor and innocent But I'm sick of feeling impotent watching the world burn In the era of apocalypse waiting my turn I'm a Harlem nigga that's concerned with the future And if your in my way it'd be an honor to shoot ya Up root ya with the evil that grows in my people Making them deceitful, cannibalistic and lethal But I see through the mentality implanted in us And I educate my fam about who we should trust Homicide Harldem, BLAOW!, what's the problem?

Why is it that climbers will trust someone with their life but not their gear?

Don't get me wrong; by no means (including divine intervention) am I descent boulderer (sub par comes to mind). How sucky you ask? I lead harder trad than sport (which might explain my ability to do this problem but not others). But what’s my point? I'm not trying to sandbag, but that crack honestly feels like 10+ to me which would make it no harder than V1 (assuming I understand verm’s scale correctly). Hmmm... Thoughts?

Yup thats the one. Sweet. Is that rating in the newer guide book or would someone need to look else where to determine how weak they are?

Nice work Distel... By chance do you know that boulder problem that consists of a ~12 ft. roof crack that turns the lip and climbs for ~10 ft.? It's in the white water area (I think that's what its called but lets be honest I'm not in the know). I'm wondering if you know the rating.

As mine are rapidly approaching fingerless status I can't seem to find these anywhere... has anyone in there internet travels come across these recently? I've seen them at mgear.com and usoutdoorstore.com but they only have the smalls in stock (I need mediums). Even if you know of a store that stocks them that lacks a website; give me a phone number to mail order... I'll gladly buy you a for your troubles

For what Blakej is planning on using them for (esp. out here) he should look at (in no particular order) 1) BD sabertooths 2) Grivel G 12s 3) Petzl Vasak Though the air techs and other models (BD Contact) would work just fine for WA volcanoes, the option to do steeper/more technical routes is not there where with the above list he could transition into those types of routes. Blakej should also recognize that the Petzl Vasak is merely a slightly tweaked S-12/Black Ice and assuming he settles on Petzl should just pick up a pair of S-12s/Black ice for super cheap (as everyone is clearing them out... you might have to search under the name charlet moser S-12/black ice though). And of course the G14s rock over the sabertooths... they are made for different styles of climbing. If you want to compare the G14s against something similar, try the Petzl Sarken. Or maybe not, as the Sarkens easily outperforms the G 14s and weighs 8 ounces less. It should be pointed out that Kim Csizmazia won many ice/mixed climbing comps wearing a pair of sabertooths (pre bionic days). Winning usually meant on sighting M9ish. Point is ultimately gear won't help you if you can't climb. So what are you waiting for?

Me too.

No experience with the 10.2... have a pair of 8.1 70s... love them. As far as getting a smooth lower... that is generally a function of the user/device choice; not the rope. I would suggest making a list of what characteristics of a rope are most important to you and let that guide your decision... impact force, gms/meter, sharp edge rating, etc.

no.

check your pms...

prefuse 73 though not related anybody checked out Madvillian (mfdoom + madlib)? Outlives all the hype!

Word. If you can find the old Arcteryx gamma ar pant those are the shit: cargo pockets, stretch, suspenders, etc, but they stopped making them. Closest thing to them is the champ pant (though those are warmer... denser weave). REI = suck

I agree with Dru; LC is nothing more than cragging. I talked to Adam (one of the two who freed it); he said though the second pitch was the crux, the roof was not the crux (he said it felt like 12+), but above it climbing on super thin features (where the rest of us mortals yard on fixed gear).

But you could wear your bd dry tool gloves...

Conditions will vary with the time of year you plan to climb it. Most climb it in late spring/early summer. You will get a more direct answer if you specify when you plan to climb it. There are a number of guide books available for Rainer; is that the kind of info you are in search of? Additionally, there is a thread in the Rainer section discussing this route at great length. Consider looking at it.

I can understand how it seems like circular logic; at times I look at qm and wonder why and like you: who cares? Giving the walls infinite potential is qm way of saying "they are taller than a molecule can travel." I know what you are thinking: make them infinity, but if you made them as tall as infinity the particle could escape and the various solns to the particle in a box would fail. So as a result one difines the walls height in terms of potl (which is related to position in both classical and quantum mech.) and the particle remains trapped. Why important? A particle in a box is an excellent model for a number of things such as an eletron in a p- and/or s- type semiconductor(s) (such as the one found in ones computer which allows us all to spray away).

To answer this, one would need to know amount of force of urine and whether or not to consider H bonding in the urinal water. I can tell you that using you 14 degree angle and the assumption that the end of your wang is 36" off the ground, that you can not stand no more than 2.24" from the urinal to actual make it in. Proof: 180- (14+90) = 76 degree angle of entry height of right trangle created: 36-27=9" (distance from end of wang to water level). Using law of sines: sin(90)/x = sin(76)/9"; x = 9.27 inches A second time yields the soln: sin(76)/9=sin(14)/x; x = 2.24 Trig is easy...

In classical physics you would be correct as you applied Newton's law of motion. However in the realm of QM you are wrong (where one commonly encounters 1 and 3d boxes as well as particles on a ring, etc. The walls having infinite height is actually important as a particle can never have infinite potential therefore it can not escape the box. So what happens? The particle (as it is also a wave (wave-particle duality)) goes to infinity at t =1. At t=2, it returns to its original location. So you were a second early.

Pre med = watered down biology degree "Is this going to be on the MCAT? I don't want to learn anything that won't be on the MCAT." "Ochem is only a weed out class... I don't actually need to know this..." "Oh... uhhh... I umm want to be a doctor so I can help people and stuff. Has nothing to do with the salary." Pop quiz: If a particle at rest is found in a 3-d box with walls of infinite potential at t = 0, where is the particle located when t=1?

You got a book, journal article, symposium date... something that mathematically links observation to event the way you described it? By no means am I a QM wiz and I do have much to learn. However, I do understand the concepts of probability and event as well as the limits of what one can observe about the event in question, but I have never heard that if you want to see something just look for it (assuming I interpreted that correctly). Wave-particle duality is one thing, but levitation? Nothing personal, but what you described sounds more like the half baked version of QM commonly cited by the likes of Magic the card game playing kids, philosophy professors, and touchy/feely art majors who only read the intro and part of ch. 1, but didn’t understand anything because they never took physics with calculus (or calculus for that matter). They just spit shit like “uncertainty principle” in hopes of not being passed over by yet another member of the female student population for an engineering student.

Hey! I asked!

I suppose one could take it further with the evidence learned from quantum mechanics that one could alter the world around them just by thinking in a certain way, but that's hard core Yogi Master Siddartha shit. What QM theory is that? Reference please! Unless you practice yoga/are familiar with it this next part is going to sound like a bunch of new age hippie shit, but the yoga thing works for me too. For me personally it's not so much telling my self that my hands are warm (when they aren't); more of promoting flow to all extremities. Turn your attention to the center of attention…