John Frieh

Just because "give it up" works on your ladies doesn't mean I'm gonna be that easy Michael... I’m a four beer minimum* before you can start taking advantage of me… First things first... I am in desperate need of some route specifics for Girth Pillar. If anyone has been to at least the bivy ledge (top of 2) or possesses intimate knowledge (pitch lengths come to mind) of the route from a reliable source; please pm me... I will make it worth your time. Speaking of which, does anyone know where specialed is? Specialed: check your pms or email... If I got this information, I might be a little more reluctant to share about NNB… Speaking of NNB… I hesitate to post TRs for climbs I've done prior to joining the board; especially when climbers who have accomplished far more than I ever will (ex. Lowell Skoog) don’t. Case in point; you don’t see him posting a TR for any of the many FAs he did prior to cc.coms creation. If anything, I feel like it would come across as a weak attempt to further promote my already oversized ego, and we all know there isn’t much room left on this site for egos. And if anything, I haven’t earned it. If you are in search of beta for NNB, pm me… I’ll gladly help in any way I can (if it isn’t already apparent from my ninja like quickness to spray beta on anyone who asks about a route I have done…). Michael: you interest in nailing the butt? Got plans for the 4th holiday? Holla at your boy! *a sliding scale is currently in place; pm me with a pic of yourself and I can let you know if you qualify…

It's always ice climbing season somewhere... The grivel double spring actually at full extension (hung on) isn't much longer than the full extension of one's arm so one could easily hang on them while placing or depumping and still reach them with out having to pull up on the cord. And if drytooling is considered A0 anyways, what's wrong with ensuring you won't drop your tools in the mtns since the only time you would climb leashless would be on mixed terrain with an UC?

I would still expect some snow on the slab pitches based on what I saw two weeks ago. The gend. might be wet from snow melt also. Finally, if you are only doing the upper ridge, the entrance couloir is fairly snow filled, so don't expect the 4th class the guide book promises. Sherpa is the descent... some cracks were opening so stay sharp. Kinda still a little early for it.

Because it's easier to switch hands with umbilicals than nondetachables... I swear I only use them in the gym... I swear...

this one You can view on gna.com also under the indoor set page.

So your vote is for the BD offering? If I recall correctly some of your prior posts, you were anti grivel double spring? Aid I think were your words. Still hold that opinion after this trip?

Guess we all don't own a strap on...

Can't IP ban with a proxy... he'll be back.

What do you think of the CM (crap... my bad... petzl now) detachable leash? Seems fairly idiot proof to me...

Well obviously that's the proof we needed. Dan - style.

Hey Dru Were they dropped because the buckle accidentally released or were you unclipped from the tool for a mixed move or placing gear or something? I would argue, depending on how you place gear (staying in your leashes vs. getting out) that if you always get out of one that it doesn't matter which leash style you use: fixed or detachable leashes, your chances of a dropped tool is the same as you are separating yourself from the tool.

Damn that's good. Chalk one up for the good guys.

Since when do people believe everything Rock and Ice prints? Wasn't it R&I that promoted Dan's speed times on Rainer and Hood? "But... but... but... rock and ice said I only needed 10 draws..." And quit bagging on the FA party! Their names are not found in the by line on the article. The bottom line is you got tried and you failed. Not a big deal unless you don't learn anything from this experience. If you haven't failed before then you probably haven't been climbing that long. The saying goes: "If you're not cold, you brought too many clothes If you're not hungry, you brought too much food And if you succeed, it was probably too easy anyways."

Here's an excerpt from an email I got from Twight regarding the grivel trigger mounts: Good luck if you go north in winter, Mark P.S. Cascade and Mixte have the geometry to match the Tech and Top Wing tools. They cannot be used on Alp Wing. And be careful of putting triggers on tools that do not have a "pommel" to support your hand, it puts a lot of stress on the trigger finger.

The way the grivel attachment mounts prevents one from using it for a pinky rest as the mounting piece is above the rest so you can't clasp your hand around the shaft. I use it only as it is intended (a trigger finger mount). A word of caution: trigger finger mounts without pinky rests (which are found on most leash less tools) is a great way to screw up your fingers (pulled tendons anyone?). A friend of mine just duct taped cam hooks to his... worked okay.

Umm yeah. I hear REI sells them.

Sounds like a lot of people this site need to start drinking more...

Is your life worth the cost of a rap ring? As far as what AMGA teaches (and by no means is this the final definitive correct answer) its a no no.

Umm… I’m not going to stand by and let you badmouth someone just because you can’t route find. More experienced climbers on this site obviously climbed this route with no problem (ex. Alpinedave, chuck, etc.). All of us this site would greatly prefer that no one get hurt on a route (look at the liberty ridge thread). But like I said before and will say again: You and only you are responsible for yourself in the mountains. Most people can’t climb A2: does that mean there should be a bolt ladder up Liberty Crack? People bite off more than they can chew all the time; every once in awhile they pay the ultimate price for it. It sucks, but natural selection happens. The route is not a time bomb if parties such as your self honestly analyze the route requirements prior to and decide whether or not it is in within their ability level. Just because a route is not within your ability level doesn’t mean it should be super bolted to allow you to slide by. You don’t see people bitching at Potterfield for not providing bolt anchors or a topo to Girth pillar in his book, do you? If people are too stupid to be able to discern in between this route and a sport route at smith, they shouldn’t be climbing anyways. You’re right, I don’t know your experience, etc. I didn’t assume to either. But as much as you don’t like people making assumptions about you, why are you making assumptions about the FA parties bolting modivations?

Word.

Unlike the gym or sport climbing it sounds like you (awagen) are accustom too (I apologize if I assume incorrectly), it has never been, nor will it ever be the responsibility of the FA party to equip an alpine route such that it is accessible to the lowest common denominator. If this were somehow true; all routes would be nothing more than 5.6/A0 lines. You and only you are responsible for yourself in the mountains. The n. cascades is not smith, rifle or any other place where “climbers” think it’s okay to use tic marks to make up for the short term memory they smoked away the night before. Leave your spray paint at home. And if you can’t route find (as it sounds like), practice on smaller routes or go on bigger routes with more experienced climbers. Just because you became disoriented on a route for whatever reason doesn’t mean it’s the FA parties fault. Blaming them for not bolting low 5th class terrain is poor form. I applaud the FA parties’ decision to not publish a topo; it only places more responsibility on all who choose to attempt this route (such as yourself).

Who is it? PS I think blasphemy is the word you are looking for.

A request: could we please refrain from using homophobic language on the site? I would greatly appreciate it.

Could it be a possibility that the shortcoming(s) actually do not lie with the route? Just a thought...

All the more reason to park your car at Blue Lake... who wants to walk 1.8 miles humping a pig after thin red... only to find your car got towed?