John Frieh

Just last week

Intel Science Talent Search Awards Scholarships semi finalist. Current plans include completing a Master's. Dating that guy from the motorcycle diaries.

Vegan. Harvard grad.

All paths lead to Les Schwab.

Pins: yes (angles and KBs would be wise) Tools: depends on your comfort level... you will most likely want a pair. Watch the avy danger on the approach to the ridge. A good warmup/practice climb for this would be the standard route on Thielsen in winter. Climb safe!

John was gracious enough to add a few additional pics of faces of interest to his site. If you're interested let me know... you know were looking at the same thing. And if you already got a crew lined up good luck and climb safe... 16 days till opening day.

Tom makes some of the best down garments/sleeping bags period. I have the very first orange bag he ever made from years ago when he was out of Seattle... its still going strong after 100+ nights in it. Yeah that jacket is pricey but you will get what you pay for.

Hoe's down, Gz up?

For option 2 get the lightest thing you can find... a number of companies (including La Sportiva which it sounds like they fit you) offer a sub 2 lb boot. Examples: La sportiva trango s, Garmont Tower, etc etc (you get the idea). Get what fits. Even better: tennies. You can get a pair of old skool SMCs on just about everything but chacos. For option 1: get some plastics.

Alpha: most precise plastic boot (oxymoron?) on the market though not as warm as other plastic boots out there. Definitely one of the lightest.

That's not Rudy... he isn't that tall.

Here is some basic info off rc.com: Hyndman Peak Old Hyndman Peak N. Face Mt. Borah I have some additional info I got from one of the members of the FA party; pm me if you are interested. They look sweet!

Yeah... Nepal Extremes should be warm enough... hmmm… Have you had frost bite/nip in your toes before? Any issues (difficulty) with locating your distal pulse? Fern has good advice on the inserts... you can also get 2mm rubber inserts that will add some volume to your boots in addition to some insulation to the ground that would also work but wouldn't add as much volume to your boot (too much volume could make them no longer fit). Also a piece of space blanket cut to the shape of your inserts would help. Something I do with leather boots is wear goretex socks... not so much to keep my foot dry but to prevent heat loss from evaporation from the feet. The goretex socks will slow the amount of vapor loss and as a result your feet will stay warmer. Additionally it will keep the insides of your boots drier which will prevent overnight freezing on multiday trips… always a plus. A cheap stylish option is bread bags. What ever you do make sure you remove them each night or risk trench foot. And I always sleep with my boots in my sleeping bag.

Which instruction books? The old adage is heels down...

Hey jon: is there money in the budget to rent a pair of those inflatable sumo suits? I'd gladly pitch some cash to see a Rumr vs Cracked ski sucks/rocks battlecage

For me crappy weather = drytooling at rocky butte. I think I still have remnant lactic acid in my forearms from yesterday .

I'm with DPS on liners... unless you have circulation issues stock liners should be more than plenty. A few other things you might want to consider: do you plan to pursue alpine climbs (technical rock, mixed and ice) or more mtneering pursuits (snow slopes)? If you are hoping for some rock (or any other terrain where precise foot work is merited) eliminate any boots that feel/are boxy... Also make sure the portion of the boot above the sole next to the ball of your foot is flush with the sole... some plastics actually are wider than the sole at this point (the boot pouches out) which will prevent and/or hinder you from edging with your inside edge... make sense? A rand on the boot can help also… but not much. A clip in point is required but doesn’t always come stock on a boot (civettas for example), if a boot doesn’t make sure you add one.

I have an I tent and an Eldo... I tend to start the night with the vestibule shut and the door and ceiling vents completely open. If I or my tent mate wake up cold I close the door a little and continue to close it little by little until the door is shut. How many people did you have in the tent?

From personal experience I have found over the years that Lowa Civettas and Scarpa Alphas (both stock liners) work well with my (so therefore might not work for you or anyone else) metabolism, extremities blood flow rate and layering system. I tend to only wear plastics when I am going to be out for a few days (not often)... i.e. situations where over a couple of days my leathers would slowly freeze/wet out. What do you mean by: Are you referring to custom liners?

next thing ya know there'll be guys in dresses on mother's day. I second that one! If things don't calm down on the saint we might have to switch venues to Bailey. yum yum.

We ran into him (Bob I think was his name) on his way back down (about 2ish) and he actually went back up to watch us climb some ice... with some pestering we got him to take a run on TR... it was his first time on WI and he was stoked! FYI for those looking for genuine WI and don’t have the time to drive to BC... the bands are still in and nice. Illini can post some pics later today… And of course there was some nice freshiez to be had on Sat. Sketch: were you one of the two on the ridge? I think we saw you headed down…

Look who turned into the little sprayer... Daisy!

Yes. In that same area Lakeview Mtn has a coulior you can see from the summit chair lift on Willamette that averages 50 degrees and you can easily hit car to car in a day... just as good as diamond but much shorter approach. Bailey in southern OR is some real dope... plenty big cornices to huck your ass off of and more vertical than Diamond. Throw in good access (especially if you have a bile) and you’ve got something to do this weekend. Oregon descents is worth browsing...