John Frieh

Yeah... buy a double like all the non sprayers are saying. If you are doing just one route you can borrow mine

I just heard that Jeff's 2nd edition will have c. 70 routes for this area... up from 25 in the 1st edition. to AFIVE and all the other locals busting their es to develop a sweet crag so close to PDX! All on sight ground up too boot (that's for you Pope )! If only I could get my in shape

Trigger will fit but not at the base where you are proposing. If you look at how the trigger mounts to the shaft you will see that the plastic piece on the back will interfere with your grip. It's hard to explain in words... go to a shop and play with it. You could try the grivel slider thing... not sure if it will work though. Go to the drytool comp this sat in everett as they will have reps there who can answer all your questions.

Glue stealth rubber to the sides of your crampons and ice picks and smear the slopers

I always try to bail off my partners ice screws

Learning to place good gear quickly and efficiently and even more importantly not being afraid to take a fat whip instead of coughing one in and taking (though I still wimp out from time to time ). For the most part I still suck though.

www.e-caps.com

Lower left. P.S. 2 pair of crampons are aid

PDXers interested in carpooling (and maybe climbing some alpine on Sunday) give me a shout!

I will be out there today and tomorrow... I was planning on just bouldering but if you want to TR some shit call me: 541.231.2062. Also: if any PDXers want to carpool with me to the drytool comp this Sat (and maybe climb some alpine on Sunday) give me a shout! The sooner the better! What else are you going to do on a rainy weekend?

not to make light of your loss, john, but it appears you are breeding them, so you'll have new ones soon anyway... (good luck, cheers, don) Yes I have (or had) 2 pairs of darts but one pair were for trashing at rocky butte exclusively and the second pair I kept for pure ice, alpine routes, and comps. The front piece on the lost pair were on their way out but I had a brand new heel spur mounted on them. That and the crampon bag had an extra quad pick. What can I say... I suck

Rap wall routes are as follows: Far climber's left roof route with fixed cable draw M9. Next route down M7-, next route right M7, next route-(easy project?) fixed rope and anchors but no bolts. Way down and to climber's right under huge overhang- "Ghost dog M11". I still would like to see a topo though!

anybody?

Oct. 23rd

Is Teanaway road still open? Anybody get pics of stiue or dtail this weekend?

In a black wild things crampon bag at Rocky Butte. Also in the crampon bag should be an extra charlet moser quad pick (4 mm), a few wrenches and a hex tool. Crampons are orange and have the heel spur attachment. Front point is well used... Last seen near the bridge (where you would park to go to silver bullet). Name your price if you find them. John 541-231-2062

Snowmobile? Check your pms!

Nailed it again Well said

Petzl handleless ascender.

Oh yeah... What Darstog said.

I think you mean the M11 ... do you? I don't think Kayland makes a M10. I can agree that Madrock's shoe kinda looks like the M11 but that is about it. With that said of course these boots are half the price of a pair of M11s... they are made with cheaper materials by unskilled labor. Case in point: They are using fake leather in the boot (kayland uses real leather): and foam instead of Primaloft (what Kayland uses) for insulation. Since when is foam (open or closed cell) as good as insulator as primaloft? Furthermore the M11 has a waterproof/breathable eVENT lining... the Madrock makes no mention of anything... It is also apparent that the designer isn't an alpine climber... all alpine boots (look at La Sportiva, Scarpa, Garmont, Lowa etc etc) don't use metal eyelets near the toe so that when you jam the boot in a crack you don't get the eyelets pushing into your toes. Kayland (and everyone else for that matter) don't use metal eyelets anywhere on the lower portion of the boot. The Kayland M11 also has a built in gaiter and it's exterior is built from the same material shark-handlers use for their gloves. Mad Rock doesn't have a gaiter and uses generic kevlar. In their description (or anywhere on that website): They offer no technical specifications... what type of insulation? What type of shank? Shank material? Weight? I think the price makes absolute sense... cheaply built boot at a cheap price. For those who only venture out 1-2 times a year... Sure! Save some money and get a boot that can handle a few laps up Adams every year. But if you fit into the category of "I trash my boots in year" or are just someone that is more than a casual user than chances are you will trash this boot in 4-6 months (assuming you don't lose some toes to the foam insulation). And at the end of each year you will be out the same... 400 for 2 pairs of madrocks or 440 for 1 pair of kaylands... though I want to meet the guy or gal who can trash a pair of kaylands in a year.

Bolts on any route... whether it be 5.2 or 5.14... where good, quality placements for protection exist is unacceptable. FYI Gills route protects with large nuts.

Thielsen summit pinnacle is as solid as anything at snoqualmie pass (if not more)... it is the remains of a volcanoe plug so mostly andesite (as far as I can tell). Other parts of thielsen are closer to your description. Bottom line: easily protected with larger hexes.

I'll be there with some PDX kids in tow. Time? Anybody else?