John Frieh

Ran up today... it felt like June (so much that PMR was even out looking for a lost climber ) except for the fact that the pearl gates are currently sporting a 2-3 foot crown... avy is sketchy from hogs back up through the gates. If you do a north side route you should be okay though rapping off a picket might be in order. Not sure if I would recommend topping out from the south side considering snow pack conditions... but if you are willing to risk your life for an ascent of the south side of hood your call Other hood notes: I rock looks like it did 3 weeks ago... little to no snow (though the north side looked blasted... hard to tell). Premium KORN to be had today... it was 60 degrees at tline at 1 pm

On Hood today... it was premium 100% butter love. Spring is here!

Inversion Inversion Inversion All this nice weather might be a good chance to break your climbing dry spell dave

Call me if attending tonight: 541.231.2062

Hey yoda! Shouldn't it be "sloblo: birthday you have happy will be?"

I'll take what is left

Will have info on Thursday for you

Alpine route Enchantments. Be able to follow (or better lead) WI4ish and 5.10ish trad. Be in shape. Flame away in spray not here kids John 541.231.2062

The day you convince yourself that you are too "old" to try something new is the day you actually are old! You are never to old to try new things! Come on out and drytool sometime! No fruitboots required! PS: Happy Birthday!

inversion might/will slow the rate of consolidation be safe up there!

Inversion Inversion Inversion Any pics of n side of stuie? Any word on Teanaway TH access?

Mtneers creek road gate is closed. Any word on Teanaway TH access? Inversion Inversion Inversion

You might attract a little more interest if you have it closer to Seattle (if not in Seattle)... not sure if that is an option or not but ideally you want to minimize drive time and maximize climb time All you need is some rock (whether it be a road cut, brick building, bridge piling you have secretly chiseled/drilled at night ) that is TRable (preferable without having to lead it) and some motivated climbers interested in improving their ice technique. As your technique (footwork) improves you will find the steeper the better. The very first post in the PDX drytool thread has some gear advice if you are a drytooling newbie. Good luck d00ds! Maybe if you train hard enough one of you can reclaim the cascadecrags ice comp title for WA next year

Just one route I can think of but you would rather post hole into and over ptarmigan ridge in winter instead of carry over snowshoes

And if you have to carry over I rather climb with snowshoes on my pack instead of skies on technical terrain.

Nothing unless the whole appoach is rocky/shallow.

I will give a keg of beer to the x country skier that can ski into the stuart moraine in less than 5 hours from the gate (not the parking lot) without taking their skis off with the exception of the river crossing in winter. Let me know when you go so I can watch you attempt the boulder field.

Don't forget to tell him about the 2 snowmobiles that were in the car and stolen! Good to hear it was fully insured and they found it!

I'd like to meet the man or woman that can ski into the north side of Stuart faster than a snowshoer (if not at all) in winter. Snowshoeing can suck but sometimes it's a necessary evil.

If the weather sucks everywhere else maybe... hard to say this far out... I might head to MT for some Hyalite goodness.

Holy flying fuck dude! That blows! Fucking meth heads If you need to borrow my for awhile (or anything else) let me know. God that sucks! Where in NW? What are the details? Overnight?

What other beta are you looking for?

From Grivel NA: Modern sport mixed routes and ice-climbing competitions are so steep that equipment weight has a decisive influence on muscular fatigue. The energy cost of weight on the feet is multiplied due to the length of the lever (the legs), and reducing this load allows sustained movements that would be otherwise impossible to execute. Lightweight, bolt-on crampons like the Racing are attached to extremely light rigid-soled shoes to achieve performance similar to rock shoes. From rock and ice: Bolting crampon to boot eliminates all the straps and levers attendant to removable crampons, trimming weight and bulk. Also, because the thick, traditional lug sole is replaced by a thin, smooth one, the crampon sits closer to your foot, ratcheting up performance. Outfitted with a pair of these sleds, you can climb ice as if cragging at Sporty Rock—pressing against “holds” such as blobs and scoops rather than whacking them, Lizzie Borden-style. You also expend less energy swinging your feet and are more tuned in to the holds, be they ice or rock. From Climbing Mag: Start by bolting your crampons directly to your boots. This will give you a lighter and more precise tool for effective footwork on technical rock sections. Also, it’s a more secure method for attaching the crampon to the boot than a normal step-in system — very important when you’re dangling from heel spurs. Most, if not all fruit boots do come with a heel piece/section. Some also have a spur. Yes. Drytool or mixed mostly but basically anything super hard. Kinda depends on your defintion of alpine. Some of the multipitch mixed routes in BC, etc have alpine approaches and are on a mountain so if that is your definition of alpine then yes. I can think of 2 routes I'd like to try this winter that will require fruit boots. Anything else?

How about this (if not propose alternate times and I'll see if I can make it): Drytool night: Tuesday Nov. 15th 4 pmish to whenever (if you can't make it till 6 pm that's cool... just let me know you are coming!). Bring your headlamp! Newbies welcome! Hood Lap: Wednesday night/Thursday morning (email or PM if interested and we can figure out a start time depending on all who are interested). HIGH PRESSURE starts Monday night and should last at least through Thursday so after the avy settles Hood should be good to go (but assess for yourself)! Get a hold of me if interested in connecting for either this week!