John Frieh

I'm so on it with the Raid! Little bastards gonna die! I haven't been touching any of the debris/vegetation with bare hands so I'm in the clear so far but still thanks man! Hope to see you out there or at Stonies And all you planning on attending Wed... give me a shout! So far looks like 3-6 attending

Sweet! Bring a beater rope and some slings if you have some

In da house. Maybe Tuff Love then?

Thanks d00d! Great beta!

Hey Bill! When are you going to bring those foot fangs out of retirement and join us

The bulk of the routes are at the far end... on either side of silver bullet. I have recently begun new route development but a wasp's nest put a temporary suspension in my activities I have an extremely open, flexible schedule so if you can find some time during the week that you want a tour give me a shout... I'd be stoked to show anybody around.

Rope up definitely set the debotchery bar high... wonder if tuff love can exceed it

Just a thought on antibot plates but generally if the snow is so soft that your pons are balling up chances are you don't need your crampons on any ways... just kick some steps. Yes in some geographic places you will find a few inches of fresh over ice (AK, etc) but in the NW this is about as common as real WI to climb.

Was this a gear demo or did a gym have them for regular use? If so where?

We were there! WHere were you? Lurking in the shadows After seeing how volatile the crowd was and particular avatars were being called out for potential violence I thought it might be wise to not announce who I was. Could have been you were so drunk you didn't see me

How did you get up to the North side? I thought Hwy 35 was closed...

I think you are talking about the PMI verglass that I have, they are certified as double or twin. Nope... I am talking about my Beals. Sounds like PMI offers it to. FYI: why having the option to go either double or twin is good is in teams of 2 clip them as double to have the absolute lowest impact forces possible with the rope and in teams of 3 clip as twins so that if either partner falls they are clipped through all the pieces so they don't fall as far, etc etc.

Mmmm. Clusterfuck. Or is that rope origami? Or exhibit a: contributing factors to 13 hours on outer space?

The two top mini slings on the gear sling are for stashing items you know you will need quickly... i.e. the # 3 camalot on the second pitch of the gendarme on stuie... stuff like that. I don't normally carry anything there expect maybe my camera case. I rack everything on the two slings running under my arm pits... how you rack is your business... everyone has a different opinion on where stuff goes. As far as avoiding the dreaded "all the shit is on the back part and out of reach" either adjust the sling (the metal buckle) so that the front of the gear sling is lower than the back... this tends to keep everything up front except on over hangs. In situations like that a biner duct taped in place will keep everything in front. Also I would venture a guess you won't be leading at your extreme red point limit with a pack on so chances are you won't need to find that piece of gear right away so a little gear migration every once and awhile won't hurt. And as far as swapping leads the pack seperates from the harness so you can take it off and wear just the gear sling when leading and give the pack to your partner. Grivel also sells just the gear sling so you could rotate packs. Does this help?

See you bitches this Wednesday! Call (541.231.2062) or PM me if you are going to be there Anybody is welcome!!! Handlebar mustache helps you send sloper!

I don't know of any teenage climbers from PDX on the page but a bunch of us old foggies climb on a daily basis out at Rocky Butte... all the information as well as when we will be out their next can be found here: PDX climb thread Can I ask why you only want to climb with people in their teens?

Beal 8.1 (what ever they call them now) can be clipped as double or twin and have the lowest impact forces on the market. Where is that other thread that covered this?

On the newer models (you will find some of the older designed ones floating around out there which lack the adjustability feature) the sizing is adjustable so one can custom fit the gear sling to you. Is that what you are asking? Plan on a health dose of seam grip for the oversized grivel logo on the back (hit the daisy chain points too) if you plan to take the thing out in the rain. Sweet pack for 50 bucks! Plenty of space to rack all the neutrino biners you find on only the hardest routes in the NW

Next session is this Wednesday Oct 5th 4pm – whenever. Please PM or call me if you are planning on attending/interested and what, if any, gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. As always: 541.231.2062

I think DanielHarro was looking to go this weekend. I'm in for next Wednesday though!

Are you sure that photo wasn't taken in CA? Sweet pic! I had a great year too (when I wasn't dropping things )!

You have the rest of your life to work. You don't have the rest of your life to play in the mountains.

g -14s will slog snow routes... but so will boots with nails pounded through the bottom of the soles. But both won't do it as well as the sarken. Perhaps a better way to say it is the g -14 weighs too much for snow routes and the front points are better for ice than snow. Generally the more specialized you make a piece of equipment the better it will preform at that type of climbing but will suck for everything else. Sarken or sabertooth if you can only own 1 crampon. And fruit boots on anything less than M9 is weak.

I'm taking a crew of kids up the west ridge of stuie friday night/Sat morning prior to showing up at ropeup. PM me if interested.