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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. Yes. OP Dovals and BD Ovalwires work fine. I bent an OP Doval gate during a carabiner rap system such that the gate was/is now outside the nose and tweaked to one side. I can post a pic later but I would say stay away from wiregates on rap.
  2. I can't speak for everyone but I would venture a guess it had something to do with the freezing level not dipping below 11k since Wed. night in combo with a temperature inversion. Good job... glad to see everyone enjoyed themselves.
  3. John Frieh

    Rap

    Someone stole his password. gyselinck generally doesn't post in spray.
  4. A lack of light is a good thing IMO... it helps teach you how to "feel" holds with your tools and pons... something you will have to learn how to do sooner or later as you advance into super steep routes and can't always see past the bulge you are trying to move past.
  5. Wild thing half bag: 25 ounces. Epic Shell. 30 degrees.
  6. For all of you that have fat partners... Hey Squid! Are all your partners fatties???
  7. Bring an old and/or cheap headlamp you don't care about (or one you bought at REI )... we've seen a few smashed over the past year. Most people seem to prefer something with at least 2 LEDs as they tend to give off a glow as opposed to the spotlight effect of traditional bulb headlamps. This allows you to see all your tool/feet placements without having to swivel your head around a bunch. Tikka + comes to mind... As far as gloves you are right on! Climbing with traditional shaped tools tends to exfoliate skin at the knuckles quite nicely . Any tight fitting leather glove works great... the metolius fingerless bigwall glove is premium. Great to see you guys getting something rolling! Move it to the events forum and start heckling people to come out.
  8. So that takes care of the anonymous part but you still need to: -stop picking fights -donate some money -write some TRs
  9. So do anonymous avatars that just sit on this page and try to pick fights with people they have never met and never post anything helpful or contribute any money to cc.com
  10. John Frieh

    commuting

    Lucky for guys you're all getting some light rail soon. Oh... wait... nevermind... I was thinking of Portland.
  11. The Fred Beckey Talking Doll? Held in Spray Your Answers Are
  12. Check overnight freezing level before going. If temperature inversion contiues through w/end it is likely not a good decision to climb at all (though that is for you to decide). FYI: it was warmer on hood last night in town.
  13. Edit: Everybody happy now?
  14. NOAA.org. Learn it. Use it.
  15. I love the chalk bag cloud in the last picture I posted at AFIVE's request... I believe he got them from Timmy... he should be posting the details soon.
  16. Go climb rock conditions I bet the road is closed or a mud bog.
  17. If you're not flying you're not trying
  18. Word to the wise: use old ropes (ones you wouldn't feel safe leading on). They will get stepped on, swung into, super muddy from all the rain in the winter and generally abused if you turn this into a weekly thing. Seattle drytool night!
  19. Here: link
  20. Partial slide yesterday but it sounds like it is safe now/slid completely as Ivan and friends climbed it. See his TR. It makes sense because the south side is a lower angle up to the hogsback and then the hogs back is at a steeper angle allowing it (and the old chute) to slide. Partial crown below pearly gates and old chute when I went. Ask Ivan what he found.
  21. It must have been an awesome hike down that sweet corn. Jus' kidding, good to see folks out there today. I rather hike corn than ski ice I kept asking everyone "where is iain?" yet I still managed to miss you good work up there btw... hope it isn't a preview for this weekend on the north face
  22. Just to give you an idea of what the inversion is doing to Hood at 1 pm today it was 60 degrees at timberline and 53 at g.camp. Might want to rethink those north face plans
  23. Freezing level is a little high for my tastes... hmmm... FYI: thanks for all the pms to go climbing but the original person resigned up so I'm good. Regardless I am always looking to meet other super cool people from the site (regardless of what you climb) to get out... shoot me a pm if you wanna go climbing!
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