John Frieh

not to make light of your loss, john, but it appears you are breeding them, so you'll have new ones soon anyway... (good luck, cheers, don) Yes I have (or had) 2 pairs of darts but one pair were for trashing at rocky butte exclusively and the second pair I kept for pure ice, alpine routes, and comps. The front piece on the lost pair were on their way out but I had a brand new heel spur mounted on them. That and the crampon bag had an extra quad pick. What can I say... I suck

Rap wall routes are as follows: Far climber's left roof route with fixed cable draw M9. Next route down M7-, next route right M7, next route-(easy project?) fixed rope and anchors but no bolts. Way down and to climber's right under huge overhang- "Ghost dog M11". I still would like to see a topo though!

anybody?

Oct. 23rd

Is Teanaway road still open? Anybody get pics of stiue or dtail this weekend?

In a black wild things crampon bag at Rocky Butte. Also in the crampon bag should be an extra charlet moser quad pick (4 mm), a few wrenches and a hex tool. Crampons are orange and have the heel spur attachment. Front point is well used... Last seen near the bridge (where you would park to go to silver bullet). Name your price if you find them. John 541-231-2062

Snowmobile? Check your pms!

Nailed it again Well said

Petzl handleless ascender.

Oh yeah... What Darstog said.

I think you mean the M11 ... do you? I don't think Kayland makes a M10. I can agree that Madrock's shoe kinda looks like the M11 but that is about it. With that said of course these boots are half the price of a pair of M11s... they are made with cheaper materials by unskilled labor. Case in point: They are using fake leather in the boot (kayland uses real leather): and foam instead of Primaloft (what Kayland uses) for insulation. Since when is foam (open or closed cell) as good as insulator as primaloft? Furthermore the M11 has a waterproof/breathable eVENT lining... the Madrock makes no mention of anything... It is also apparent that the designer isn't an alpine climber... all alpine boots (look at La Sportiva, Scarpa, Garmont, Lowa etc etc) don't use metal eyelets near the toe so that when you jam the boot in a crack you don't get the eyelets pushing into your toes. Kayland (and everyone else for that matter) don't use metal eyelets anywhere on the lower portion of the boot. The Kayland M11 also has a built in gaiter and it's exterior is built from the same material shark-handlers use for their gloves. Mad Rock doesn't have a gaiter and uses generic kevlar. In their description (or anywhere on that website): They offer no technical specifications... what type of insulation? What type of shank? Shank material? Weight? I think the price makes absolute sense... cheaply built boot at a cheap price. For those who only venture out 1-2 times a year... Sure! Save some money and get a boot that can handle a few laps up Adams every year. But if you fit into the category of "I trash my boots in year" or are just someone that is more than a casual user than chances are you will trash this boot in 4-6 months (assuming you don't lose some toes to the foam insulation). And at the end of each year you will be out the same... 400 for 2 pairs of madrocks or 440 for 1 pair of kaylands... though I want to meet the guy or gal who can trash a pair of kaylands in a year.

Bolts on any route... whether it be 5.2 or 5.14... where good, quality placements for protection exist is unacceptable. FYI Gills route protects with large nuts.

Thielsen summit pinnacle is as solid as anything at snoqualmie pass (if not more)... it is the remains of a volcanoe plug so mostly andesite (as far as I can tell). Other parts of thielsen are closer to your description. Bottom line: easily protected with larger hexes.

I'll be there with some PDX kids in tow. Time? Anybody else?

Only in Oregon

Call it. Nothing wrong with getting some and before some more and slides. So... what's close? Who's in?

Damn... you're right I'll come up for the other show though. The Roots play in Portland on Tuesday!

If I make it that way this weekend I'll chop 'em. Anybody know who bolted this?

Did you see any bolts on the summit pinnacle on Thielsen?

Work up on the bias AD. BD and Americana place equally fast and are both excellent screws but I switched from BD to Grivel Americanas last year because the position of the knob on the grivel americana screw allows you to get the screw started before you flip the knob out easier/faster (by palming the screw) but more importantly your hand doesn't come off the screw when flipping out the knob so you don't risk the screw falling out while reaching for the knob (like in the case of the BD screw). This likely doesn't make any sense reading it but will make sense if you play around with the two models. I only carry a few 360s as they are a bitch to rack... I save them for the "hurry and place this" times as they place faster than any other screw I have used. I didn't like the sonics when I used them.

Sounds good to me: Low brow Lounge Review Consensus?

I have a panpipe. Great for cragging... too heavy for alpine. Carries the 360 (or whatever) nicely. You can also rack 2 360s on one ice clipper (I prefer the petzl ones)... if you have multiple ice clippers you can get approx 6 on your harness.

I'm out for tonight Bridgeport is still closed for remodel so no dice there. Can anyone think of any other bars in the pearl that will actually let us in?

I'd loan you one of mine but I am in PDX... not sure if that will help... if you are headed this way and want to borrow one let me know.