curtveld

I agree it is much better than the original Dreamer start. And it ties directly into D pitch 3, sharing the belay. Jason, glad to help you restock!

Trip: Darrington - Safe Sex Date: 9/5/2015 Trip Report: Grabbed a break in the rain with ‘Rockdan’ Jaffe to hit this neglected classic. We had no camera, so mostly a conditions report and sales pitch. SS seems to get about a tenth of the traffic of Dreamer, which is unfortunate. It’s as long and the climbing is just as interesting, with some quality trad sections. If you don’t have Weekend Rock, get an excellent topo here. The 2060 road is in good driving shape, with less potholes than usual. We got at least a mile beyond the 3 O Clock trailhead finessing the family SUV. The fall rains have arrived and the approach was drippy, the streambed slabs wet and tedious. Should have brought some gloves for all the bush pulling required. The first three pitches, drying as we went, are quality slab and knob climbing with occasional bolts (PG-ish). Where Dreamer ventures left, Safe Sex heads directly up corners toward the obvious roof. The line appears bushy from below, but the climbing isn’t at all, another form of the ‘Darrington Effect’. Pitch 4 steps left around the cedar bush and gains a mini Split Pillar that is one of the sweetest laybacks in Darrington. We continued up the knobby 5.8 rib. As noted in the topo, one bolt hanger is missing, but can be easily slung with a wired nut. Pitch 5: Dirty but awesome! Photo by Martin Cash Pitch 5, modestly labeled “dirty but good”, is the longest and best of the route. The dihedral offers 100’ of sustained jamming and stemming on trad gear. The bits of vegetation are never an issue. As you approach the big roof, crimp right to the rib for more thoughtful face climbing. 180’+ of fine entertainment! Pitch 6 starts with 20 feet of steep knobs then ramps off leftward. We rappelled from there, but you can continue up and left to join Dreamer to the ridge. For shorter runouts, traverse directly left to the chain belay for the excellent Urban Bypass finish. So if you’re one of the multitudes that thrashed your way into the Green Giant to bag Dreamer and never returned, you should consider going back for this one… preferably once things have dried out. Gear Notes: Medium Darrington rack Approach Notes: Standard full-value Dreamer approach

nice! Good for the fires, not so much for the road repair project?

Thanks for the update. Will be interesting to see what's still smoking up there after this rainy stretch. Wonder if the FS will send a crew up there to mop things up so it doesn't kick up when the weather dries out?

Nice job Brett and Soria! I loved that route and we didn't even do that amazing splitter in pic #5

A great outing for the next generation!

Awesome TR! Surprising that the Challenger Glacier isn't more problematic

You're looking at a 3 hour drive. Maybe you can entice a meth addict?

Great photos, but kind of stunning to me. I did that route in the mid-90s and it was >95% on snow. Now withering glaciers and crumbly volcanic junk. The climbing looks plenty interesting but the aesthetics are taking a beating.

Eric T is certainly welcome to his opinion, but no doubt there are a variety of opinions around this site, whether posted or not. My personal climbing convenience is not the only consideration, and I see both advantages and disadvantages to the expansion proposal. Appreciate the thoughtful comments from Eddie and Matt, and good to see that AAC and WCC have been following this issue along the way.

Liberty Traverse 'Lite', I'd say. Really enjoyed all the routes though, especially the Chockstone Bypass pitch on NEWS, which is surely one of the best 5.6-ish pitches at the Pass!

Right, and they don't call it "Exfoliation Done" fer nuthin! And so much for my self-reassuring theory...

Matt, Hanman or others - Has anyone actually seen rockfall happen at Dtown when climbing? Seems like the risk to climbers is reduced, in part, because we aren't on the rock all that much of the time (<10% by my estimation). Plus, I'd think it'd be far more likely during rainstorms, freeze-thaw activity, etc. Should knock on wood, but seems like mild summer weather, things should be less active.

It's just a cheap, scratched up black Casio....but I like it. Lost 6-13 somewhere on the North Early descent gully or South Arete of SEWS. Email curtveld at comcast dot net, thx

Good call. Though most of Erie is quite non-kid friendly, especially little ones. If you're into hard sport (12s), Rosario Wall would be good, with a beach a short walk away.

Great stuff - keep em coming! The fog gives the true Olympics flavor.

Index or Darrington....grades around 5.9....weather looking solid....anyone? Reply: curtveld at comcast dot net

"A sport is advanced by the handful of people who do it brilliantly, but it is kept sweet and sane by the great numbers of the mediocre, who do it for fun"

Great climb, great photos! Keep on posting.

As of Monday, 3 O'Clock was down to 1%! Did four pitches and had one 5' section with wet holds. Road is good - going to be a great spring up there this year!

1) Have climbed. Dreamer - all-time fave Epinephrine New Dimensions (Yos - would flail on it now) Barad Dur - Wolf Rock Wasteland - Cochise 2) Capable of, but have not climbed. Cathedral (Pasayten) Direct Exum - Tetons Devil's Tower Serenity/Sons Needles (Sierra) any routes Verdon Gorge (will belay/rope-gun for air-miles!) 3) Admire but will never climb. Alaska Range and other big mountains Robson - abandoned goal of my youth Long 5.11s in Squamish - Freeway, Northern Lights Midnight Lightning

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Looks like the OP is after a couple of days, in which case Tieton could be fine (agree its not worthy of a week). Obviously, you're not getting a break from the OR basalt. Climbing weather is likely to be good, though the camping tends to be higher than the crags, so will still be wearing the puffy most of the time.

Yup, yarn-spinning is a dying art and Pagel's skills are right up there with the best.

Awesome - Tuolumne in technicolor! And I had no idea the SW produced elk in those numbers.