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Everything posted by curtveld
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Awesome report! That thing makes the standard route on Everest look like a walk in the park, by comparison.
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Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier - Asc & Desc - July 6 & 7, 2019
curtveld replied to Infinity's topic in Climbing Partners
Good luck, the Kautz is a nice route -
[TR] Mount Constance - Finger Traverse 05/23/2019
curtveld replied to Alisse's topic in Olympic Peninsula
Excellent photos and TR, Constance is on my list. I'm thinking this time of year might be optimal for less talus and more glissading? -
I love my WM Caribou - 35 and find it easily meets that rating. Chose it because it is a little roomier and slightly tougher fabric than the 'Lite' series, but still very light. I also have a 15 degree bag for colder weather but rarely need it.
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No conversation on the topic of '3 O Clock Rock stewards' would be complete without mention of Matt Perkins and Mark Hanna! Without the perennial efforts of those two guys, 3 O'Clock might well be like Static Point - a beautiful crag way up a brushed in logging road that gets maybe 10-20 visits per year (if it get's that?). In which case, hard to bother replacing old hardware. Worry not, there are and will be many opportunities to participate beyond climbing. Bolt replacement, road work, trail work, new routing - take your pick. For 25 years I did nothing beyond loving the climbing before stepping up and it's made it so much more satisfying. Now I wake up at night thinking about new pitches and better approaches
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Word is the road repairs are done
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You can thank the multi-interest group (timber industry, enviros, Forest Service, politicians) called the 'Darrington Collaborative' that created a thinning sale north of town that paid for this work! The #2060 was the beneficiary because it is so popular among locals and climbers alike. And climbers have shown their commitment by putting their own efforts into maintaining this road for years, notably some guys named Hanna, Perkins and friends. It's a great story for local climbing access. Unfortunately the road still needs lots more new pipes to stay around for the long term. I got skunked, but it's worth it.
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As of 9-27-18, the 2060 is closed for repairs! Operator told me will take a couple of weeks.
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[TR] Twin Sisters Range - Green Creek (Lite) Circuit 08/28/2018
curtveld replied to mtangeman's topic in North Cascades
Take that shit to Spray! Great TR though... -
Trip: Three O Clock Rock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour Trip Date: 07/20/2018 Trip Report: Hey, a quick update about some new options up at 3 O’Clock Rock...for those that care. Year after year, it seems that over 95% of Washington climbers find zero appeal in hiking to easy slab climbs. But that just keeps the quiet experience for the dedicated regulars and newcomers. Andy and I added an easy (~5.3) slab climb a bit right of Silent Running that features two short pitches. Road to Nowhere has proven a fun outing for novice slab climbers. If you want more challenge, try it hands free (though the FHFA has already been done). You will need 5 draws and one 70 m rope to get up and down. If you’re up for a more difficult experience and/or other parties are lined up for Silent Running, continue another 4 pitches up Mystery Tour, which wanders to the right-hand edge of the North Buttress (topo below). The second pitch of Mystery Tour (5.9+) is the standout, featuring 58 m of very sustained slab climbing. From there, continue up the rounded buttress at 5.8 and then a shorter pitch that ties into Silent Running. More beta and gear details are below. Currently, the easiest descent is down Silent Running, though we hope to have a separate rappel route tuned up in the near future. Leah on Road to Nowhere, pitch 1 Matt approaching the rounded buttress on pitch 3 of Mystery Tour. Climbers below and left are one pitch up Road to Nowhere Route topo Gear Notes: For Mystery Tour, you'll want double 60s, a single set of cams to 2" and ~14 draws. About 80% of pro is bolts. Approach Notes: FS road #2060 to Eight-mile trailhead, then 45 minutes of easy uphill (standard 3 O Clock Rock approach)
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Cool! I've heard this is a fun route, so thanks for the reminder.
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Some tumbling debris apparently came out of that gully on the left earlier this summer. Thankfully it never seems to happen when climbers are around (knock on wood!). And Jim B, I sent you a message.
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[TR] Bugaboos - Beckey-Chouinard and Surfs Up 08/07/2018
curtveld replied to BrettS's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Strong work Brett and Soria.......and grandparents! -
It's a bit right of Silent Running on an old 1/4" relic called Nowhere Man. That rap station is now being used to get off Mystery Tour and will also provide an alternative descent for Silent Running that stays out of climber's way
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Not really but it's not that hard to find. It's a flat area right of the trail that overlooks the valley. There are 2-3 tent spots, as I recall. Probably nice spots at the lake as well?
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Having done White Chuck, I would have to disagree. One of the scarier class 3 routes I've done (sloping ledges with loose pebbles is what I recall) and not particularly interesting climbing, either. You have a great option with Hidden Lakes Peak, as the views are as good as most summits I've been on. It's exposed and improbable, but not technical. If you can't stay in the lookout, there are spectacular tent sites about 3/4 of the way on the right. Seems like the best goal would be to get your girlfriend a great mountain experience without getting spooked or overwhelmed. Trying to find a compromise destination is likely to miss the mark for both.
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Cool Darrington-ish looking route! Is that near Garfield and the famous route that should not be named?
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Nice! Love what the clouds add to the first couple shots.
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[TR] Dakobed/Napeequa Loop - Clark Mountain 07/04/2018
curtveld replied to curtveld's topic in North Cascades
We didn't camp there, just stopped for lunch - yeah super beautiful place. The hike to the valley wasn't too bad, though no picnic. We did find bits of old trail and intermittent pink ribbons. The White River trail is maintained reasonably well to the Boulder Pass turnoff. After that, lots of brush tunnelling, though not terribly hard to keep on the tread. I think the FS gave up maintaining it after they lost another bridge across Thunder Creek. Amazingly, there is a decent foot log that just happened to fall at the perfect spot. Despite the challenges, it's still on the map and gets a bit of foot traffic. -
Trip: Dakobed/Napeequa Loop - Clark Mountain Trip Date: 07/04/2018 Trip Report: A few pics from a very scenic 5-day loop through the Dakobed Range in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. We picked it because it was one area neither Andy or I had been to and it had a pretty good forecast. From the White River trailhead, we camped at Boulder Pass, Butterfly Butte, Napeequa Basin and at the Thunder Creek/White River junction. You can connect the dots. Very sleepy area – we followed animal tracks nearly the whole way but ran into only one group of humans over a holiday weekend. Mostly off-trail travel and even parts of the 'trail' were pretty schwacky. A great trip through classic North Cascades terrain. On the trail to Boulder Pass, near the Sheepherder Trail takeoff View from Boulder Pass into the reclusive Napeequa Valley Walrus Glacier on Clark Mountain, in great early season condition. Clark summit with Dakobed Clark from Butterfly meadow camp. We descended the Richardson Glacier on the left Looking up the Pilz basin, Luahna up there somewhere.... Butterfly Camp with Buck Mountain in the distance Heading out of Butterfly camp to sidehill to Napeequa Basin Napeequa basin, very austere Freeze dried ice cream bar - Oh yeah! Climbing to the pass at 7750' Descending through the fog into Thunder Basin we spooked this nanny with her kid tucked behind. Pretty sure Andy was going to get gored for this photo! One piece of advice: Do not attempt this descent without the Routes and Rocks beta!! Thunder Basin with Tenpeak up on the ridge (maybe net time). Waterfalls everywhere and much lusher than Napeequa basin. Just in case you get the idea it was all lovely alpine rambling....it was not! Some big trees in the White River valley, ferocious skeets too. Gear Notes: Usual backcountry and glacier gear, beta (topos, Fred, Routes and Rocks). White cotton dress shirts provide stylish protection from sun, brush and bugs. Bug hood came in handy too. Approach Notes: It's all approach really
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[TR] Mount Prophet - "Jacob's Ladder" (AKA full SW rib...FA?) 06/24/2018
curtveld replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Awesome discovery Jason and Kit! I've long wanted a better motivation to get to that part of the Cascades -
What would you do for a week in the North Cascades?
curtveld replied to dawuda's topic in Climber's Board
The correct answer is to study the weather until the last minute before you decide. If you are blessed, do the Ptarmigan as an in-and-out. Start from Cascade Pass and go as far as you want before reversing your steps. If you're fit and motivated, you could probably bag Dome in that time. Requires no shuttle, zero shwacking and the scenery is good enough to look at from the other direction. -
Did that route a loooong time ago, but remember it as way more fun than most Oregon volcanoes. We did the summit rope-less up and down and it didn't seem too difficult. Still I would bring along a light rope and couple of slings and maybe nuts. If you're comfortable leading without gear, all you need is a way to anchor yourself on top so you can top rope your buds up and then down. After that, just down climb and avoid coaching your novices through any airy rappels. And fergodsakes, pick a nice day - the don't call it the Lightning Rod of the Cascades for nothing!