Rad

For those with access to med journals at UW, can you post a link or pathway to the article? Thx.

The forecast calls for plastic.

So I got out and did the plank today. We decided to just take one rope and got down in two raps on a 60 (rap from top anchor over the edge to an anchor just under a large tree, then to the ground from there). If you had two 60s you could go all the way to the ground from the top anchor. The 10s on the vertical wall look like fun - will have to return for those.

Does one need two ropes to get down? Likely to dry quickly or seep? thx

I agree with your assessment and personally believe that the needs of the many outweight the needs of the view (insert Spock emoticon). I also believe that one can find a middle ground between the extremees you mention, where there protection is spaced far enough apart to keep the leader engaged but close enough so no one gets killed or paralyzed. This is true regardless of whether you go ground up or top down.

Frank posts on this site as Frankazoid. Send him a pm. If he doesn't respond send me a pm with your contact info and I'll pass it along to him.

Cool. Congrats! But I thought aid climbers were a dirty lot. You guys look way too clean to be legit.

W ridge of Thompson. The chimney route up Chair. Warning: a lot of the rock in the SnoQ pass area is loose and fractured. Proceed with caution.

Get well SOON!

Watch that foot!!!

:tup:

Cool. If you don't get a response right away perhaps post a puc or two from the card. Odds are decent someone will recognize the climbers and a connection can be made.

RIP Dallas. I know many here will miss you.

Action and reflection are both important. Good luck finding your passion again.

What are you going to do with a lighter? Build a fire? That's not very feasible in the alpine and not very ecofriendly in many locations. Nothing wrong with mirrors and waving red jackets etc, but those will only help rescuers pinpoint your location once they're already in the area searching. Got any other "old school" things worth mentioning?

Excellent. Thx

Muchas gracias. Yes, FCC. Unless you're flying while radioing. Got a link to a site with info and/or a bunch of NW radio geeks to answer newbie questions? (e.g. what does "2m" mean? Is that a 2 meter wavelength?) Got an article or more info on the Blue Glacier incident you mentioned? Sounds like radio is worth comparing...

Just an edit to " there was no sign of the other two, who are still missing and presumed dead." Both bodies were recovered by PMR in late August. That rings a bell. This is for the 2009 accident, right? Let me know and we'll correct it (one advantage of web-based publishing). Thanks.

Amateur radio devices typically have higher power, operate at more frequencies, and can often hit repeaters in areas where cell phones cannot hit cell towers. Downside is a license is required although the requirements are fairly easy nowadays. I looked into this a bit, but ran into two challenges: 1 - the FCC license requirement. Can you tell us what the "fairly easy" process is that solves this issue? 2 - The people you're really want to talk to (law enforcement and rangers) won't tell you what frequency they use for their communication. What's the solution for that? On Mt Rainier, a number of recues were initiated by guide services with radios, but they're on the horn with the rangers and know the frequencies. Any advice on how to know what channel to use? 3 - If you can solve 1 and 2 above, what are the best units to consider? One can spend $50 on a radio or $250. I couldn't tell from product descriptions much difference in technical performance of these. PErhaps you can enlighten me. Feel free to pm if you don't want to post #2 here. Thanks. Rad

Anyone out there use the SPOT II or McMurdo FastFind or another PLB? Comments/feedback?

Thanks. I look forward to more responses. FYI, the Crystal skier wrote about his experience on line, acknowledging he took more risks than usual, but he attributed his increased comfort to having another party nearby (next gully over) and having safely done another run in the same area earlier in the afternoon.

Relax folks, that's a common joke. I've never eaten any raptors and wouldn't advocate that.

For those of you who haven't seen it, you might enjoy the article we put together on the role of signaling devices in mountain rescues: Climber 9-1-1 in the NWMJ But I'm posting because I have been asked to do another piece focused on devices and I want to solicit your input. Are there any useful devices we missed? Any errors you found that need correction? Comments from your experiences? Any comments on cell phone texting vs calling in the mtns - I hear there may be times when texts will go through when calls won't. True? Other comments? Thanks, Rad

But back to the point: the N Buttress of Middle Cathedral is definitely cool. I thought belays were fine, though we got rained off at pitch 11. Second Braille Book. Great route. I've never done them, but the routes up the Cathedral Spires look fun (both 5.9 I think).