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Rad

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Everything posted by Rad

  1. I have a rock climbing TR but I won't post it in this forum, which might as well be titled "bolt spray", because it will be overshadowed by this sprayathon. Look for it in Alpine Lakes...
  2. Fixed IMHO, you should exclude professional photogs, as evidenced by websites featuring work or skills for sale.
  3. Bouldering Humor Alpine Cragging Boarding Scenic
  4. Bill, As Rob notes, SAR may have substantial support from volunteers, but operations are run by "Govt" (local Sheriff, Park Service, etc). Sending out a volunteer-only force would be problematic for a lot of reasons. If you want to know why try calling Kelly Bush or one of your Sheriffs who runs the ops on Hood. I found them very accessible and bet they'd be glad to talk with you. Rad
  5. Mr. RuMR whom I've never met: Have you read the new site guidelines about conduct and personal attacks? Time to reassess your behavior and learn to address alternative perspectives in a civil manner. Moderators...please send him packing! I am 100% sure that the majority of users on this site would like to see you packing Raindawg. Tis certainly ironic. Nonetheless, RD is entitled to express his opinion in a civil fashion. But fear not, for a leopard cannot change his spots, and no new logic or original ideas will emanate therefrom. What bothers me, regardless of the tone of discourse, is when people view and judge others based on their own narrow perspective of the world. This happens on both sides of the argument. Maybe if we could all learn to be tolerant of the views and values of others we would not be such a polarized cc.com group, and for that matter such a polarized and paralyzed nation. More sickie and less
  6. Aren't you suppose to be playing with electricity? And, are you referring to Reptiles or Jug or not? both are the best routes there. I will go ahead and fix some draws. good idea. I know you're being sarcastic - hope so at least - but how about replacing those wierd Burdo bolt/anchor things where he cut grooves in the rock to avoid buying a bolt hanger? Those things have seen a LOT of traffic over the years. I would hate to see someone take a real lead fall on one.
  7. This is a highly charged issue, pun intended. You might find some relevant facts in the article I wrote last year for the NWMJ here: NWMJ article on Climber 9-1-1
  8. Jug or Not is 10b and is often toproped by people who have led Reptiles. Reptiles is a magnet for newbies who may not understand that people leave draws on routes on purpose. In future, it might be a good idea to clean those lower draws each time you come to work the route. In any case, I hope you get them back.
  9. Thanks for posting. Awesome adventure. Makes me nostalgic for days of free-wheeling international travel. More US people need to get out and see the world, IMHO.
  10. Social networking companies are HOTTT!!! CC.com IPO? Time for y'all to reap the rewards of your hard work here.
  11. I've been thinking about carrying one for a rescue/hauling situation.
  12. If you go, you will find beefy biners on the chains at the top of routes - like at Nason. Clip and lower and please leave the biners where you found them. Thx.
  13. Blotter on accident Glad he's going to be OK. Anyone know what route or what happened?
  14. Not secret, but not ready to post details on the interweb yet. Send a pm if interested in going Sunday, and if you prefer to go by yourself I can send you directions.
  15. If you bring shoes and a harness you can probably join us on Sunday for rock climbing here We may be able to transport you to/from Seattle too...
  16. Some of you know I've been working on a crag, dubbed Shangri-La, for a few years and have been taking people out rather than posting beta on a website. Well, I'm going on Sunday and would be glad to give a tour to anyone who'd like to come along. PM if interested. The crag is mostly South-facing and should be in great condition. Routes feel more like Index than the rest of X38, but I'd rather let the routes do the talking so you can decide for yourselves. Everyone who has been so far has enjoyed them anyway. Ratings are subjective, as we know, but be warned that these are more more in line with Index than the rest of X38. People comfortable on 10s and up should find plenty to do. The breakdown goes like this: Drive By = 5.8 bolted arête. 27 meters. Magic Carpet Ride = 5.8ish trad crack. 40 meters. Unnamed = 5.9ish bolted face. About 35 meters. History Book = 5.10- trad crack. 20 meters. Guillotine = 5.10- trad crack and flake in a giant corner. 22 meters. Hangman = 5.10- bolted face and roof. 30 meters. Small Arms Fire = 5.10 bolted face. 20 meters. Crouching Tiger = 5.10+ bolted roof and face climbing. 20 meters. Metamorphosis = 5.10+ two pitch line with mixed bolts and gear. About 50 meters total. Free Radical = 5.11- bolted arête. 22 meters. Hidden Dragon = 5.11 (11+ if short) bolted face and roofs. 29 meters. Hypertension = 5.11+ bolted face and roofs. 28 meters. Unrepeated. Skullduggery = 5.12ish bolted overhanging face. 13 meters. Unrepeated. Project = 5.12+ or harder…. The approach is 15-25 minutes depending on your pace. On the walk in I can also point out some newish 11s that are well worth doing. Me on the FA of Guillotine in 2007. Skullduggery. (Rope at left is vertical)
  17. Nobody mentioned Utah. I've never lived there but it sounds like it's got sunshine, rock, ice, and snow in abundance. True?
  18. Another way to spend your 2 days is to go to the W Ridge of Conness. It's only about 5.6, but it must be over 3000ft long in a stunning position. Crowds are unlikely. It does top out over 12k so if you haven't done any acclimatization you may feel the hurt. Other routes listed are good choices too.
  19. Impressive. Thanks for sharing the training tips. It makes Tommy's free ascents of the Nose and Freerider in under 24hrs seem even more insane. http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_Tommy_ElCap.htm
  20. Good work. Great route, particularly on the upper arete. You didn't whip, and the bolt placement is quite reasonable, so I'm not sure the dire warnings are needed - IF you take the TCU. A good route to climb if you're nursing a pulley tear...
  21. Onsight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-btPtpkMr4
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