Rad

Left the sheets behind to save weight, I see.

You should be able to find another like-minded climber without hiring a guide.

It would be great to see the stone throwers show us they are putting their time and energy and money into conservation efforts OF ANY KIND. If you do that you may find that people will listen more carefully to what you have to say. There are a lot of people here who put in hard work on crags and other places who are probably willing to have a rational conversation if you are out at the crag helping do something tangible that preserves the resource.

I'll bite. What's in the bucket?

f'ck yeah I do! Sign me up too.

Like. And you plan to work on the NWMJ too, right?

Another important one: motivate past, present, and future team members to keep the NWMJ going! This one is hard because it depends on many people stepping up and pulling the sleigh. You know who you are...

- Stay healthy and climb with friends. - Crag new route FAs. Two may be too hard for this year, but other projects should go down. Do at least one multipitch rock FA in the mountains. Get more people stoked to climb at a crag I've been developing. Redpoint Bust the Rhythm and find a few other 12 projects. Get the kids on real rock more this summer, and share that with friends. One goal has already been achieved this year: boulder my first V6 indoors. Many family, friends and work tick list items, but I won't list them here...

The last two weeks have been SWEET!

Went today. I generally agree with Jens, but here are two additional thoughts: 1 - this gym is actually quite good for young kids as the roped areas have lots of holds fairly closely spaced. Kids had lots of fun, anyway. Roped routes are about 20ft tall, so length is not their strong suit. 2 - I went back in the evening for my bouldering workout. Yikes! I've never been to a more sandbagged gym, and I've been to a fair number. Example: long lock-off on a sloper to reach a crimp sidepull, high step and reach to sloper at full extension, put foot on hold that feels too low and dyno/campus for another crimp as feet cut off...on V2! I'm 6' with a +3 ape index, and I felt short in this gym. Every V1 and up had at least one dynamic move or super long static move. Injury potential is high. But the staff are definitely friendly.

Can someone who's been comment on this gym? I'm planning to be up there next week and was hoping to get a bouldering workout and belay the kids for a few hours at some point. Is it good enough for that? Thx

He's on Facebook, occasionally posts here, and you may be able to reach him through his blog: http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/

I like the shot of the belayer waving with both hands while standing 30+ feet back from the base with a huge loop of slack.

Not sure what you mean by french. Clip qdraw to bolt. Clip long sling on bolt. Clip lead rope into qdraw. Stand in long sling. Clip new qdraw to next bolt. Repeat. Clip yourself to qdraw or long sling at any point to rest. No etriers needed. No free moves required at all.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=981531

I'm not sure that bolt ladder has ever gone free. The free Grand goes right at the top of the Sword pitch out that undercling (called the Underfling). Then it climbs a crux slab pitch (13b?) up and left to the anchors at the base of Perry's. Check out some great photos of Mark doing it last year. Don't have link handy. Yes, just take a few quickdraws and a couple of extendable slings you can stand in and that bolt ladder will go fast. It's short.

Dry heaves is a serious ab workout too

Yep, the LA attorneys are at your door right now with a cease and desist letter. D'oh!

yikes! yep, stainless is the only way to go. thanks for doing repairs.

Relationships where one person expects the other person to become/grow into something he/she is not are storms waiting to happen. You need to find someone you love and respect for who they are today. It's not the one red flag in a relationship that you missed that leads to trouble. It's the 358 red flags that you tried to pretend were green or orange that get you into trouble. Cynical, the first day of the rest of your life is TODAY. Not tomorrow. TODAY. Be the change you want to see in your world.

It was a siege ascent too. First alpine style human powered moon shot byfairmeans ascent is still up for grabs. Actually, I think it was capsule style!

Bigotry in climbing serves no useful purpose that I can see.... I have a dream that one day this community will rise up and live out the true meaning of its creed: "We hold these truths to be self-evident: that all climbers are created equal"... I have a dream that one day the sons and daughters of sport climbers and trad climbers will climb together at the gyms, crags, and mountains of this majestic realm... I have a dream that one day my three children will live in a world where they will not be judged by whether clip bolts or place hexes or carry crashpads but by the content of their character.... (adapted from MLKJr).

Many seem to miss the point that objections to Lama's plan (including Colin's) this year relate to his intention to place bolts on rappel rather than ground-up on lead. As Dberdinka points out, rapping in to place protection bolts to create free variations of big walls is standard practice in Yosemite and elsewhere. I won't opine on what's right or wrong, but it seems unlikely El Cap would have so many free routes without this tactic. Gene makes a good point that the ethics of a crag/region should prevail. From a bystander's perspective, it seems that the Cerro Torre area of Patagonia bears similarities to Yosemite and WA pass in our own domain. It's got long granite routes that attract climbers from around the world at certain times of the year. As happened in Yosemite, the major crack systems that mark lines of weakness are being climbed first. The question is whether you stop there or allow bolt-protected free routes on faces, and if so under what style (power vs hand and on lead vs on rappel. In some ways, I'd be more interested to hear Tommy Caldwell's perspective than Colin's on this particular issue, as Caldwell has pioneered routes like this in Yosemite where Colin has not, as far as I am aware. Bolts are now part of climbing, just as pitons and other fixed gear were before them. Vigorous debate and when/where/how to use bolts should definitely happen, preferably in a constructuve way, but we cannot turn back the clock to an era before bolts any more than we can turn back to an era before dynamic ropes or SLCDs or sticky rubber etc etc etc.

pot is a gateway drug to sport climbing