
dmuja
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Everything posted by dmuja
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Seems to me that a lot of folks have tried gym climbing once or twice. The trend in the mountains Ive noticed though is toward less people in general.
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I decided to post this because of how impressed I am by these shoes even though Ive only had them for a couple days. -- La Sportiva Miuras Overall grade = A THIN EDGING = A+ (None better that I know of. Amazingly, these shoes manage a certain amount of sole stiffness to them without sacrificing the "thin hold" sensitivity. The smaller the edge the gladder you will be for having chosen these shoes - ie, this is what they excel at). SMEARS = B (I think this may be their weakness - if they have any. I haven't *significantly* put them to the test on steep slabs yet though. Your toes should be slightly curled down in these to get the most out of them and that means a somewhat more challenging smear. They also have a naturally formed downward curve to them like other high performance shoes). CRACKS = B- to B (Better than some, but not as good as others. Foot jams are suprizingly not that bad for a shoe that seems made more for high performance bouldering. The laces are sort of guarded and these being "lined" shoes -sort of- means there is a little bit more material between the top of your foot and the inside of the crack). FIT = A- (Jus for info, I have wide "duck" feet and need a large toe box. I sized mine pretty tight, and rightfully, with toes slightly curled - I wear 10.5+ [44-44.5 euro] street size and bought these at 9.5 [42.5 euro]- but then worried about it afterwards thinking that a lined shoe like this would prolly not stretch at all. Wrong. I noticed some stretch in just 2 outings, but not that much. Now I just hope they won't stretch too much. I never felt a shoe fit so tight and yet still be so comfortable). COMFORT = A (These shoes fit my duck feet nice and snug but curiously, without the usual pain. Maybe not an "all day" shoe, but close). WEAR RATE = ? (Don't know yet, but I suspect because you will really want these shoes for harder face climbing on edges and toes etc, they may wear thru the toe or rand fairly quicky - although that depends on your technique). COST = Expensive, but who really gives a ratz ass? If the shoe fits... its worth it! CONS = Well maybe some won't like the slightly thicker/stiffer sole on them.. after all, the "Mythos" they aint. But maybe you will end up owning both and need nothing else. linky dinky --> http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/971 No, Im not a Sportiva rep.. Have fun. D
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Couldn't find the start of "R & D"! I know this sounds dorky, but we were approaching from up canyon on 8 Mile Buttress and traversing back toward town. My partner that day had approached previously from that direction and thought it would SURELY be obvious, it wasn't. We got pretty high up (nearly snow level) and could not find the start. So, is the start of R & D on the climbers left side of Icicle Buttress facing up canyon OR is it on the face of the Buttress facing the road? How high (how far from the road) is the start of the route? Thanks for any info on this.
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The drunker I sit here the longer you get.. wait, that di'int come out right. twas very nice meeting an talkin to all you rock stars, thanks, and Offwhites side show almost brought me to tears - wow cc.com chicks are H-O-T!
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So, they have found some shit that is pretty bad for "pets" in the "pet" food supply and is killing them - likely by the hundreds. The detected shit is a rat poison that is now widely used in China, and another chemical used in making plastics. The 2 chemicals have contaminated *wheat gluten* (a pet food ingredient) imported from China - apparently nearly all wheat gluten comes from this single source. *Wheat gluten* is used extensively in the "manufacturing" of food products for HUMAN BEINGS as well. The tainted *wheat gluten* goes thru a large U.S. based company that may also provide most or all of the *wheat gluten* used in manufacturing food products for HUMAN BEINGS in the U.S. The FDA has refused to name that company. To reassure all of us though, the FDA did say they have "no reason to believe this chemical has entered the U.S. food supply." (I feel much safer now knowing this...ahemmm..) However, as a precaution only, the FDA has "contacted the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention to alert it to monitor closely for any human disease." Hmmm... eat your wheaties today?
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"mountain climbing ....elevation above 10,000 feet.." When I "hike" Hood, I never go 10,000 feet above the start of my climb..ah excuse me "hike", so the law never will apply to me. Its fucking poorly worded and should be tossed on those grounds alone.
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gotta love him for haulin out his shit!
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Hope everyones ok. Shit, the only way id think those bouldering caves could produce a meat wagon type of injury would be if you landed on your neck or head - well, neck in my case.
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b'cuz when the hold breaks off, you get to leave a little bit of yourself behind in (on) the desert beauty. Also, you could take a little peice of that beauty back home with you. Who could ask for more?
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Suggestions for subverting the power of the state. Undermine the overreaction and over regulation, DESTROY! ~ Civilly disobey the Stupid Person MLU law (if you need one of these you shouldn't be there PERIOD, only dolts will follow this law). ~ Refuse all publicly funded rescue resources, aka boycott them. Learn how to fucking get yourself out of or to avoid a bad situation. Depend on a few close climbing buddies to come and get you if need be - you know, the old school way. Maybe we should consider forming small covert rescue groups - aka "mountain rescue sleeper cells". ~ Should you choose to actually wear the stupid person locator collar, take legal action against the state if your SP-MLU activation does not result in a timely and safe rescue/descent. ~ Tag the State capitol with a large "circle A" thingy. Personally, I Will not join the dark side, nor will I shit on the graves of 3 climbers (who obviously valued the risks and freedoms of climbing) by wearing one of these. Thanks to this law, my style of climbing Mt Hood in the winter has now become illegal and I am now an outlaw. Fuck you very much state of Oregon.
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Well, a lot of good that did...
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I am so happy that cc.com does not bar "exit posts", like last time "Ive had it..." type stuff (the way many other suck boards do) because it provides some of the bestest most entertaining material to read. Every Day I training to be best exit poster.
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[qoute]I would like to see you guys do Hood with 40 pound packs in 7 1/2 hours with only 3 hours of sleep. Jamin, a LOT of people do the south route (up AND down) with 20-30 lbs packs (why were ya haulin a "40" lb'er, xsept maybe for practice?) in less than 8 hours, coming from sea level, after work and a 200 mile drive, with no sleep what so ever. You'er not in good enough shape to move fast (ie "safe") enough for Lib Ridge yet man..JMO. ..Unless yo go solo.. You owe that much to any potential partner - BTW, who's own safety is dependent to some extent on your capabilities. And da family don't need no more accidents to get in da news an make more stupid regs as well. Just some thoughts.
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This is the funnist thread thingy Ive read since getting back online in the last half hour or so..HOOT!
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Just got back online after relocating due to massive rent increase (gotta love Seattle) and saw this... Olymon, fellow west sider dude, Sherman rock's still many unclaimed routes await your return - hopefully soon. Wishing you well.
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If you put a ladder up the face and climbed it in that time it would be impressive enough, but as done, it is F O T C ! (fucking off the chart!) I quit..
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diet, mountaineering, and bogus rock climber?
dmuja replied to Jens's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
All I know is that for cold weather big mountain/slog stuff it really does seem to help stave off the cold if your thick and strong as opposed to ultra skinny. Also seems to be a store of enduro energy you can access if need be. But then at the SG bouldering comp in Jan every top competitor was like 5'9 140lbs- and around 17 years old. -
Mandatory read, thnx rmncwrtr. Right on Big Jim!
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In my country, we call this one "George Bush" - just fall on your face and blow things up.
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"Why Don't We Get Drunk (and screw)" - Jimmy Buffett They shoudna left that one out.
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...a boy named Sue...never mind
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Kevbone, your friend almost got some noobs killed because of his self admittedly poor decision making (see velvet the wonderdog thread and web site). After Decembers fiasco, everyone new that a fuck up on Hood of that type and magnitude would be a media spectacle. Really though it wasn,t that one alone that lead to this stupid bill passing - although it probly didn't help - it was the one in December. Given the easy access to Mt Hood, its altitude and thus the long drawn out rescues that make for nice media drama, it was probably inevitable that something like this would come down. Despite the nice write up about Colin in the P-I, climbers, people who venture into the mountains are still looked at with suspicion and disdain most of the time in the US (veiwed as "risk takers") and they are an easy target for any type of regulations. There will be more regulations in the future (forced on us and created by dorks who do not climb!) and our numbers are probably too small to fight it without a large scale campaign involving businesses like REI etc.. Im just glad that Rainier has been closed down for the most part this winter so they didn't have to go looking for for the screw-ups there. Of coarse, there will be a rescue or 3 on Rainier this year, and you can bet the cameras are already being prepositioned to record the drama.
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Hmmm.. notice redboink never really reveals he/she own gender, and yet gets some quick offers. And "girls do smell better" so Im might try this!
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Damn.. it did indeed promise so much, but deliver so little. Been played like a fiddle once again.
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In my country, we call it "this is how to break our left leg"