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Everything posted by fenderfour
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Nice stirrups. Those are gaiters asshole. Cobra Commander is a Mountie.
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I agree whole-heartedly that the boots will not work for water ice. Maybe a pro could do it, but certainly not a beginner. The crampons that she bought (BD Contact) are also much less than ideal for water ice. The real issue is boot fit. I would rather have someone along for the ride with cold wet feet than feet that have been turned into a pile of hamburger. I've dealt with both and I know what I would choose. As for an attack - There was none. I was surprised that anyone would have such a story to tell after visiting FF. I've been there many times and I have always gotten great service. I will still shop at FF and send others there too. WTF? Cook the books? Just an FYI - She has found a pair of Lowa Pro Mountain boots that fit well.
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No cursing... Is "tittayz" ok? No one has said "tittayz" in a while.
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Funny, I think that is exactly what she has.... Oops, did I miss the sarcasm? Yes, I think that they are enough. Would a full shank boot be more comfortable/warmer etc? Probably. Will these work? Yes, assuming you are using the right crampons. What kind of support is needed when wearing crampons? BTW-I don't carry big packs. Since she learned from me, she doesn't either. Rainier and Baker aren't exactly Denali.
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Every other time he stands up make a scene like he farted. Make a big deal of it, and sound like you were victimized. After a few weeks he will beleive thatr his ass smells. It should do wonders for his self-confidence. Always have food available and encourage him to eat. Sugar laden fatty foods work best for this. At the end of 3 months, he should have put on some weight.
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For the record - I'm a little embarrassed that I spent time reading this thread.
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Just glacier.
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Where's Dave to comment? My friend and I used to do a lot of recreational mountain biking. We were always passing up the jokers on $$$ bikes with my $300 Trek and his $130 K-mart special. I bet it made them feel special. It's because guys are gear-whores. We can't help it, really.
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I help teach the basic climbing class with Boealps. One of my students has a foot that is very difficult to fit, so I recommended that she get some lightweight strap crampons for her existing (and well fitting) backpacking boots. She went to FF and was completely lambasted by the customer service there. They told her that she would break her ankle and die and that they would never climb with her. WTF? I can understand the slap-dicks at REI pulling this shit, but FF? Needless to say, as a new climber, she was pretty upset by the exchange and has decided not to shop at FF again. How many of you use lightweight crampons on hiking boots for climbing? On a side note - This student has a very small, low volume foot. Any suggestions for a women's mountaineering boot? I've suggested plastics with some custom liners, but that's a lot of cash.
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[TR] Mt Rainier- Ingraham Glacier Direct 5/7/2005
fenderfour replied to eternalX's topic in Mount Rainier NP
fuckin ze off! We are Boealps, not mountaineers...and we can stand in line with the best of them. It was my duty to find the snow-covered crevasses on Saturday Morning. I've never had so much trouble TRYING to fall in a crevasse. I jumped on 6 different depressions before one finally gave way. -
I've always seen the single wall shelter recommended for cold, high-altitude trips. How do they do in the pouring rain?
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Check the XL only. I rock some size 15 plastics and XL is the way to go. The <gasp> REI tall Trail Gaiters are just as good as the crocs and only cost $30. Sure, it's a lighter weight fabric, but it doesn't matter a whole lot when they are tangling with crampons. The lace hook is also much better than the OR.
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Thou wast that all to me, love, For which my soul did pine -- A green isle in the sea, love, A fountain and a shrine, All wreathed with fairy fruits and flowers; And all the flowers were mine. Ah, dream too bright to last; Ah, starry Hope that didst arise But to be overcast! A voice from out the Future cries "Onward!" --but o'er the Past (Dim gulf!) my spirit hovering lies, Mute, motionless, aghast! For alas! alas! me The light of life is o'er. "No more-no more-no more," (Such language holds the solemn sea To the sands upon the shore,) Shall bloom the thunder-blasted tree, Or the stricken eagle soar! Now all my hours are trances; And all my nightly dreams Are where the dark eye glances, And where thy footstep gleams, In what ethereal dances, By what Italian streams. Alas! for that accursed time They bore thee o'er the billow, For Love to titled age and crime, And an unholy pillow -- From me, and from our misty clime, Where weeps the silver willow! -Edgar Allen Poe from "The Assignation"
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The larger pear-shaped carbiners are partially to prevent the 'biner from sitting inside the device and adding friction. This isn't an issue on a reverso or a gri-gri, but an ATC will do this, especially when rappelling with a small carabiner. They are also shaped to allow for the extra bulk of a munter hitch.
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I've got the REI Clipper. It's a lightweight 2 man 3 season tent. I used it in the snow with good results. 6 inches of heavy wet snow accumulated through the night, but it held strong. It has done well in winds to about 30 mph when you put the backside into the wind. As far as quality - I have had no problems with any part of it. I have been using it for 2 years and everything is good.
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The 2005 Boealps BCC is coming to a close. There's only one more (major) outing left - the graduation climb. May 14&15: Mt Baker: the CD, The Squak, and the RR Grade Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier Little Tahoma: Fryingpan Glacier May 21&22 Mt Baker: CD, The Squak, and the RR Grade Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier Eldorado: Das Easy Route (East Ridge?) Expect a party of 8-12 students & instructors on each of the listed routes.
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I didn't go to Monte Cristo, but I can tell you that we didn't encounter snow until about 4,500'. Kids would have a great time on Del Campo and Gothic. Both had very casual scrambles with no really big steps. The route on Del Campo had some steep snow which is probably in bad shape now. Bare rock and heather would be better than crappy snow. Gothic should still be ok.
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Yes, and yes.
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I would bet it was someone from the UW climbing club. Being a college student, it was likely the last clean outfit before going to mom's to do laundry.
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The Bibler is a really nice bivy unless you are big. It's a real bitch for me to slide in and out of it. Once I'm in, it's golden. If I were to buy a new bivy it would be the Integral Designs Salathe. It has a flap opening instead of a slit like the Bibler. It seems to be made out of the same fabric.
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I would like to nominate Del Campo. I was up there on Sunday the pounding sun and you could see forever. The hike is nice, the basin is beautiful and the scrambling entertaining. It's a terrific day trip for more casual climbers.
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Liberty Ridge Mid-May- Route Questions!
fenderfour replied to Fuggedaboudit's topic in Mount Rainier NP
You're right. I don't suppose that living near the mountain yields any more information. Thanks for clearing that up. -
Dammit. I thought you found my ex-girlfriend. I think she's avoiding me...
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It all comes down to your comfort level. Most ropes have an impact force of 7-9 kN when tested with an 80 Kg test load. I weigh a bit more than that and would want a bit stronger pro in the rock.
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Talk to Mr. Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports in the U-District. He had a set he was climbing with last time I was in. He seemed to like them pretty well.