fenderfour

Awesome!! I had a toenail fall off once. I used it to make other things smell like cheese.

I did it last summer, so I don't know current conditions. Navigating (down) the White Salmon should be pretty easy. We went left low on the glacier and had to deal with a bunch of bullshit cliffs, just big enough to be dangerous. If you stay right you should be golden. Good luck navigating the brush in the dark. We did a rising traverse back to the clearcut and it was wretched. The hillside has a number of streams down it that make for interesting climbing. Some of them have very steep rock sides.

Bob's wall kicks butt. I took a friend up R&D last year and we saw a beautiful handcrack up the hill, so we went to investigate. The rest of the day was spent playing on Bob's Wall with NO CROWDS. Goodtimes.

"If it's going to be that kind of climb, I'm gonna stick my udder in the mashed potatoes."

An attack? No. A sensational, misinformed, inaccurate, misleading statement? Let the reader decide. There was no lambasting involved, and as Miller eloquently presented his account of the situation, no mention of ankle breaking, either. In the future before you go making bold statements that tarnish the reputation of a business I suggest you get your facts straight. People have been sued for slander and libel on far flimsier grounds. I, too, will continue to support Feathered Friends. I appreciate the kind of experience that their sales staff have and the friendliness of their manner. It's nice that you are backing up the store. I'd like to point out it's not my story that was told. I was relating someone else's. So, were you there, or are you simply another internet voice chiming in with the tired old "Me too!"?

Emmons or DC Keep your plan to climb The Kautz, just have a backup route in case the Kautz is out of shape. Think Emmons or DC for backup.

Wow, that's one of the best euphamisms I've ever heard. Like getting your truck stuck in the mud or a soggy sandwich?

Spray a sore ass WTF? This is high quality spray here. TJD is a dirty son of a snake-fucking whore. There, I've said it.

What's wrong with the North Cascades? I should stop spraying and get back to work. eh... fuck it.

The 10.5 will be just fine. If you want to buy more gear, then go ahead and buy a new rope. The Beal Joker is a bit lighter than the the Revelation. Kautz in August? You might want to have a backup plan. Disclaimer: I haven't taken any NOLS courses, nor have I at any time prostrated myself to the gods of retail sales. Based on this, I am probably underqualified to comment on gear selection.

Nice stirrups. Those are gaiters asshole. Cobra Commander is a Mountie.

I agree whole-heartedly that the boots will not work for water ice. Maybe a pro could do it, but certainly not a beginner. The crampons that she bought (BD Contact) are also much less than ideal for water ice. The real issue is boot fit. I would rather have someone along for the ride with cold wet feet than feet that have been turned into a pile of hamburger. I've dealt with both and I know what I would choose. As for an attack - There was none. I was surprised that anyone would have such a story to tell after visiting FF. I've been there many times and I have always gotten great service. I will still shop at FF and send others there too. WTF? Cook the books? Just an FYI - She has found a pair of Lowa Pro Mountain boots that fit well.

No cursing... Is "tittayz" ok? No one has said "tittayz" in a while.

Funny, I think that is exactly what she has.... Oops, did I miss the sarcasm? Yes, I think that they are enough. Would a full shank boot be more comfortable/warmer etc? Probably. Will these work? Yes, assuming you are using the right crampons. What kind of support is needed when wearing crampons? BTW-I don't carry big packs. Since she learned from me, she doesn't either. Rainier and Baker aren't exactly Denali.

Every other time he stands up make a scene like he farted. Make a big deal of it, and sound like you were victimized. After a few weeks he will beleive thatr his ass smells. It should do wonders for his self-confidence. Always have food available and encourage him to eat. Sugar laden fatty foods work best for this. At the end of 3 months, he should have put on some weight.

For the record - I'm a little embarrassed that I spent time reading this thread.

Just glacier.

Where's Dave to comment? My friend and I used to do a lot of recreational mountain biking. We were always passing up the jokers on $$$ bikes with my $300 Trek and his $130 K-mart special. I bet it made them feel special. It's because guys are gear-whores. We can't help it, really.

I help teach the basic climbing class with Boealps. One of my students has a foot that is very difficult to fit, so I recommended that she get some lightweight strap crampons for her existing (and well fitting) backpacking boots. She went to FF and was completely lambasted by the customer service there. They told her that she would break her ankle and die and that they would never climb with her. WTF? I can understand the slap-dicks at REI pulling this shit, but FF? Needless to say, as a new climber, she was pretty upset by the exchange and has decided not to shop at FF again. How many of you use lightweight crampons on hiking boots for climbing? On a side note - This student has a very small, low volume foot. Any suggestions for a women's mountaineering boot? I've suggested plastics with some custom liners, but that's a lot of cash.

fuckin ze off! We are Boealps, not mountaineers...and we can stand in line with the best of them. It was my duty to find the snow-covered crevasses on Saturday Morning. I've never had so much trouble TRYING to fall in a crevasse. I jumped on 6 different depressions before one finally gave way.

I've always seen the single wall shelter recommended for cold, high-altitude trips. How do they do in the pouring rain?

Thou wast that all to me, love, For which my soul did pine -- A green isle in the sea, love, A fountain and a shrine, All wreathed with fairy fruits and flowers; And all the flowers were mine. Ah, dream too bright to last; Ah, starry Hope that didst arise But to be overcast! A voice from out the Future cries "Onward!" --but o'er the Past (Dim gulf!) my spirit hovering lies, Mute, motionless, aghast! For alas! alas! me The light of life is o'er. "No more-no more-no more," (Such language holds the solemn sea To the sands upon the shore,) Shall bloom the thunder-blasted tree, Or the stricken eagle soar! Now all my hours are trances; And all my nightly dreams Are where the dark eye glances, And where thy footstep gleams, In what ethereal dances, By what Italian streams. Alas! for that accursed time They bore thee o'er the billow, For Love to titled age and crime, And an unholy pillow -- From me, and from our misty clime, Where weeps the silver willow! -Edgar Allen Poe from "The Assignation"

The larger pear-shaped carbiners are partially to prevent the 'biner from sitting inside the device and adding friction. This isn't an issue on a reverso or a gri-gri, but an ATC will do this, especially when rappelling with a small carabiner. They are also shaped to allow for the extra bulk of a munter hitch.

I've got the REI Clipper. It's a lightweight 2 man 3 season tent. I used it in the snow with good results. 6 inches of heavy wet snow accumulated through the night, but it held strong. It has done well in winds to about 30 mph when you put the backside into the wind. As far as quality - I have had no problems with any part of it. I have been using it for 2 years and everything is good.

The 2005 Boealps BCC is coming to a close. There's only one more (major) outing left - the graduation climb. May 14&15: Mt Baker: the CD, The Squak, and the RR Grade Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier Little Tahoma: Fryingpan Glacier May 21&22 Mt Baker: CD, The Squak, and the RR Grade Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier Eldorado: Das Easy Route (East Ridge?) Expect a party of 8-12 students & instructors on each of the listed routes.