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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. I've never had a gear loop blow out on my harness for any reason, but they seem pretty flimsy to me. I'd like to see stronger gear loops on harnesses. They don't need to hold 16Kn though.
  2. Metolius Safetech
  3. Maybe Bungle is looking for a poo thread.
  4. Go with the fatty Metolius. It can double as a car-camping sleep pad.
  5. Y'all are some harsh sons-a-bitches.
  6. Windshirts are great for wind. Not so great for rain. I use a plastic garbage bag for my emergency-crap-it's-raining thing. Dirt bag baby, dirt bag.
  7. Coolness. It is the Cummins guide. Single pitch stuff is cool. I am just working on the sequence of movement. Thanks for the suggestions.
  8. Where do I find info on the aid routes? I already have a guide to freeclimbing at Index from 1993.
  9. I want to get on some easy clean aid in the area. Index seems like a natural choice. I am looking for routes that would be good beginner practice areas. City Park comes to mind, but that's about all I know. Any other suggestions? Clean only - no nailing, no heads Some easy hooking is ok, but no long runouts Cam hooks will be available Largish free climbing rack will be used (2 sets of nuts, 1 full set of cams with doubles in the smaller sizes, full set of hexes) -Thanks Y'all.
  10. yes.
  11. Turgid Sausage... Have you ever used a frameless pack? If not you might want to stick to a semi-frame pack like the new(er) BD offerings. They are comparable on weight, volume, and price, but have a frame goin on.
  12. Learn a little Russian? I can help you with beer, bathroom, and woman. What more do you need?
  13. Yo mama is so fat her blood type is Ragu.
  14. I've used the daisies and they kick ass. Has anyone used the aiders or anything like them for aid routes? Is a traditional 4 aider system faster than a 2+1 easy aider system?
  15. I would like to check out some toolin as well. I've never swung my tools at rock before.
  16. No jacket, just tar and feathers.
  17. Banana splint? Maybe a viagra replacement?
  18. The leg loop retaining straps are always slipping down.
  19. Or you could get the Rock Empire Peak Plus Here or at MEC for $35. I used the Blizzard for the past two years, and I like the Peak Plus better. It has all the same features, all the same comfort, and half the retail price. And the leg loops stay in place.
  20. <--- sofa king we todd did.
  21. I was tought this method mostly for use at anchors, but I have used it on lead once. This could also be handy in an area where the terrain goes from not-so-steep to steep. You could use this on horizontally opposed pieces, but the angle between the pieces ends up being almost 180. This would greatly increase the force on both pieces if you fell. Someone better versed in the physics of anchors could explain this part better than me.
  22. Best thread... ever.
  23. I was taught an interesting way to set two pieces in opposition. This works best with pieces that are relatively close and oriented with an upward and a downward piece. Set you pieces (one up, one down) and each gets a biner. Clip a double (or triple) sling into the lower piece. Thread the entire sling through the upper biner. Pull the sling tight and wrap the sling around the upper biner, being sure to thread the sling through the loop coming from the lower biner. Keep wrapping until you are left with the appropriate sized loop, add biner and use. The sling is clipped to the lower piece, so it's not going anyhere. It's wrapped around the top biner enough to create a great deal of friction, and it's looped back through itself, increasing the friction, so the top piece isn't going anywhere. A downward pull will put most of the force on the upper piece due to all of the friction. An upward pull will put most of the force on the lower piece.
  24. No problems there. I'm sure you know that the G-14's aren't fully rigid (like the vertically-railed Rambo). The spreader bar allows for enough flex to fit the boot. I wear a size 15, so there is plenty of space to allow the crampon to flex a little to fit. A more reasonable sized boot might not allow this. Second ascent has a bunch of Civetta's on their used rack and a pair of G-14's on display. You could probably do a test fit there.
  25. snaffles are aid.
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