fenderfour

I would be interested in the Bianchi if you weren't so damn short.

observed conditions July 2nd: Choss, gapers, moderate climbing.

Didn't Cobra Commander already stake out Keith Leeman's garbage? Maybe we can take a collection to support the cost of a Dru stakeout. I'll donate enough for a 12 pack of PBR.

Using a micrometer to ensure proper length of his tied doubles. thank you.

Am I the only one who finds this a bit callous and insulting? I think he's absolutely right. Engineers can never crave excitement. They get all they need just going to the coffee pot and bumping into the only (homely) woman in the building.

My $0.02 on cam hooks. 1. Leeper cam hooks rock, especially the fat chromoly unit 2. Pika camhooks suck ass. I started with a couple of Pikas on City park about 6 months ago. On the very first placement the damn thing twisted and bent. On the second placement, it bent some more, went PING! and dropped me about 20 feet. Then I got my hands on the Leepers. They are the shit. They flex a tiny bit, but they bite and hold. I have two of the regular size and two of the wides. I have no problem putting my big 200+ pound ass on one of those with a full-on aid climbing rack on. Go back to ingoring me now.

I need some old retired harnesses to harvest the double-back buckles. I live in Seattle and I'm willing to pay a few bucks for them. Thanks y'all

The radar gun sends out two beams, one on the road in front of or beside the cop car and one on your car. The radar gun subtracts one from the other to arrive at your speed. There are plenty of tricks to getting out of a speeding ticket. You will have to send in a request to subpoena the officer, as well as a person who is certified to calibrate the equipment. The county has to pay for their time and will usually not bring in the certified calibrator, dimissing your case. They might also reschedule it, requiring you to waste another day of work.

I recently climbed lieback flake at Neat and Cool (Squish) as a chimney/offwidth. I don't know what it would be rated, but it worked me good. If you haven't climbed it, it starts out a couple of feet wide and slowly narrows down at the top. I think it's about 40-50 feet in total.

Remember - only the calories burned give you energy. The rest of them take energy to haul around.

I made it to the entrance gulley. A member of my party wasn't feeling well, so we turned back. The route and the descent path look almost entirely snow-free. There may be a few small patches hiding in the shade. The entire basin was bug-free.

I was worried that he would get one nomination. I was hopeful when the session ended without Rehnquist retiring. Now I am dismayed that he will likely get two. shit shit shit shit shit shit fuck.

Let's not inadvertantly cause concern through a misunderstanding. Nylon is not as strong as SpectraDyneema. Knots do reduce the strength of the rope/sling/whatever. Now for the key statement: Nylon when knotted properly is plenty strong for climbing. The main reason you wouldn't want to tie your own cam slings is the bulky knot and the tendency of knots to come untied. If you don't mind the bulk or checking the knot frequently, you should be fine.

"it's all big and bulgy, like a moose"

Rock Climbing Anchors and More Rock Climbing Anchors by John Long and Craig Luebben, Falcon Press

Bring a #11 hex for the top "offwidth" move.

a ring?

"He shouted back that he's been better... but that he's taken worse falls" WTF? Worse falls? are you shitting me? Somebody is in the wrong sport. FYI - you get a parachute for base jumping.

I helped teach a climbing class and bumped into LUCKY at a mutual friends' property in Leavenworth. Called dad from Gustav's

I managed to lose a lot of weight by playing Ultimate Frisbee 3 times a week at lunch and being a little more aware of what I was eating. I climbed as normal on weekends. It took a little while (6 months), but almost no effort on my part. I was weighing in at 255+ before. Now I'm at 215- I'm a big guy with a large build, and like Bill, I thought that meeting my goal (under 220) would be enough, but i still feel like I've got another 10-15 lbs to lose. I no longer have any reason for sucking.

I think Chaps really likes this place. Welcome to Spray.

I think the "driving" part was between the mountains once they started.

I just heard about a couple of Colorado climbers who climbed Rainier, Adams, and Hood in about 28 hours, including driving. ...damn

About the floppy cams - as a dirtbag aid climber, I have an assortment of cams. The Trangos are the only ones that flop. A quick idea of what I have: DMM, WC Tech Friends, Camalots, HB Flexi-fix, Clog, Metolius, and a couple HB Quadcams. Since most of these are single axle, I would argue that the floppiness has more to do with the springs that trango uses. I found some time to play with the smaller splitter cams from Trango. I set two of the cam lobes in some dirty, loose rock and bounce tested with a normal aider. They all held with my 200+ pound self beating on them. I would avoid too much movement when hanging on half of the cam, but it worked very well for a downward pull. I want to do more "testing" before telling anyone that they are worth while. It looks very promising, but I need to get them on an aid climb instead of a chossheap two feet off the ground.

Wild Country has the cam book available for download. It's pretty damn interesting seeing the early prototypes.