fenderfour

You are like the guy on the freeway that drives slow in the fast lane to prevent others from speeding.

...on personal liberties

selling the duck?

Looked good last weekend. Some folks crossed it without problem. They had crampons & ice axes.

I remember getting a rope stuck on the last rappel. It's 5.4, so we solo'ed up to the rope and threw it down (Hardman!!!)

Blake - I read the TR that Gary posted on your trip. Nice work! Gary - thanks for the pics of the start & crux. They were very useful. A picture from another party on the gendarme bypass. Thanks jaredvg

I like the simplicity of the Petzl Ascenders. There are a few other companies (Yates, Jumar, etc..) that make a similar unit with a single pivot. The new BD nForce ascenders have multiple pivots. These could get crudded up over time. When aid climbing, simple is almost always better. Any toothed ascender will grip an icy rope. The Petzl units have been used on Everest and Denali for years with no trouble. Offset nuts kick ass. The old HB aluminum offsets were good for free climbing as well as aid. THey set in big pin scars like nothing else. Sadly, they are out of production. DMM has picked up the design and will be shipping new anodized sets in April. In the meantime, pick up some larger brass offsets. I have a couple sets of Metolius Astro nuts and a few sets of BD micros. The biggest 5 sizes are good replacements for the #1-4 nuts that come with a regular set of stoppers.

I am constantly amazed at how maligned these small businesses are anytime the issue of traffic on HWY 2 comes up. How is this maligning the businesses?

Go earlier season via Mountaineer's Creek and descend the Sherpa Glacier.

The biggest rasta bivy kit in history.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Complete North Ridge (2 days) Date: 8/11/2007 Trip Report: My first summit on Stuart was along this delightful route. There isn't too much to be said that has already been said by better climbers. We went in via Ingalls Way, around the lake to Goat Pass and down to the lower ridge. This is a ton of work. I can't really recommend it. The lower ridge was fun, but it only added length to the climb. The first technical pitch with the wide crack wasn't sustained enough (two moves) to make it very interesting. The second pitch was sustained and excellent climbing in a shallow flaring finger crack. The other technical pitches were fun, but not memorable. Running belays went on forever and lead us to the notch where we bivied. It was a very cold night with only a puffy jacket and a bivy sack as clouds and snow flurries rolled in. The morning was cold. It was snowing. We climbed anyways. My partner (Racsom) and I put on every stitch of clothing we had and climbed. The pitches leading to the gendarme were a hoot, even in minor snow flurries. The Gendarme was amazing. I got to lead the wide pitch and I wish I had a #4 cam. Standard fair after that to the summit. My only question - who dropped a giant shit on the ledge just below the summit? For f*ck's sake, it stunk up about 50 meters of climbing around it, and it was cold outside (45 degrees or so). There were other places you could have left Mr. Hankey. Oh, and kudos to you hardmen that are doing this route in a day. That is a piece of work. Approach Notes: Don't go in through Ingalls Lake. Descending the Cascadian sucks, but not as much as people say it does.

FYI - Ramuta is now in Montana and it takes about a month to get your shoes done. Not a big deal if you want a quality job done.

Holy freakin w00t I don't need any, but I will buy some.

Did he ever dole out a dirty sanchez?

Dammit you were supposed to get all upset. I'm going back to spraying about bolts. BTW - cool send. Sorry I missed the FF Slideshow.

Holy shit! Happy birthday CFF! I wanted this to be in the humping goats thread.

I'm still gonna nail on it.

ROPE UP, Fer Feck's sake, ROPE UP!!!! Take this to the new ORGANIC CHEMISTRY FORUM!!!!

useful costume

I was so hoping that zombies were real. We could have added a new ZOMBIE FORUM below the Pirate forum.

Aye!

Bring a battery operated blacklight and look for them at night. I saw a little one at Tieton a few months back.

Clickety Click

Black Diamond has a ton of good stuff on sale. Skis skins Vipers for $150 Turbo Express Ice Screws $43 Lighthouse tent $360 $100 off Fritshi Bindings

Just went through the Peace Arch heading North and the Surrey Crossing heading South. One passenger only had a driver's license and was ok. No undue hassle either direction.