kurthicks

An additional concern might be to see which crampon attachment system you can do with bulky gloves on...and reliably. As Alasdair mentioned, the OR overboots are terrible for use with anything other than full-strap crampons. I have seen issues with 40 Below also (actually, with those it's mainly a size issue with the boot welt), but these can be resolved with some creativity with a pocket knife. So, you can do some modifications to overboots to get them to work more consistently with 'automatic' crampons, but it's just another thing to worry about in my opinion. As for me, all I take anymore are full-strap models. If a guest of mine and I can't resolve their crampon fit issue at 14,000', they're going down. It'd suck to end your trip that way. Get it perfect before you head to AK. Nothing's easier up there.

ah, lots of ice to be climbed in the Snoqualmie area still. Source Lake Line, the Snow Lake routes, and the Bryant Buttress stuff all look good from what I saw today. just deeper snow on the approach...

not to trash on the thread, but your harness isn't doubled back properly. doubled back, yes, but not done correctly. I've seen lots of folks make that same mistake with that same harness.

Gene - shoot me an email and I'll send you my info on this. I'm too lazy to post it online.

Looks like a fun day out! you might want to check how you double back your harness though.

Nice. I went looking for that a while ago. I'll have to go back.

I think you're fine using an auto-blocking device in this configuration. Do be careful of having two seconds jugging IF the ropes are going in different directions (e.g. a traversing pitch where one lowers out and the other jugs the lead line). If the ropes are loaded a different angles it can cause one or both to not lock in a fall (or if weighted by the jugger).

Jeez John, spraying for me! Why do I even log on to cc.com anymore?! I did climb the NE Slab of the Tooth today after deciphering a cryptic note about it being climbed recently on TAY. We found excellent s'nice and a tiny bit of water ice on the route--much higher quality than the last time I did it. I did fumble and drop an alpine draw on pitch two--if someone finds it and wants to give it back I'd be psyched. I bet similar climbs (Chair, Bryant NF, Abiel, etc) are all in reasonable shape so long as you get on them before the snow falls this weekend. The ski in and out is a bit icy; some may prefer snowshoes (or not. one could get by on foot easily). Here are a couple photos: Route Starting up on good ice and snice pitch 2 On the North Ridge cumbre

I believe it was Fixe who bought the CCH patent and equipment. Totem is doing a near replica from what I've heard. There's been much discussion about this across teh interwebs.

expect a long walk on either side. at least 6 miles to the trailhead either way--probably shorter on the north side.

I'm glad my superhighway to the junction helped ya! Looks like a fun place to wander into sometime.

There's no appreciable ice in leavenworth from what I saw yesterday. Nothing was climbable in the Icicle including Mountaineers Creek and Hubba Hubba. It was dark when I drove the Tumwater, so I can't speak to that. If you're thinking of going up to Colchuck to find ice, don't bother. The only stuff I saw up in the mountains were those little bit up by Hel Basin and the usual tiny drips at Colchuck Lake. It's the driest and least icy in that I've seen in the last decade.

It's called a dynamic belay.

That's a great way to get AMS, at the very least.

the best dry treatment is on a rope that has never touched rock. use two separate, dedicated ropes for rock and ice routes. Alpine routes get the rock rope usually, because in my experience ropes get positively trashed in the alpine because of all the terrain belays and such.

They come too tight from the factory. loosen them at home and be sure to re-tighten your picks as necessary in the field.

hit it harder. it'll close.

Death Picnic on Dec 11. click for full-size. It wasn't that warm up there over the weekend, so it's still probably fine and growing in the cooling temps

the best way to save rope weight in the alpine is to carry the shortest rope you can get away with. half ropes, when used as a single, are suitable if the leader isn't going to fall and the rock isn't sharp enough to cut the rope.

All of the ice near Pan Dome is climbable and top ropeable off trees. The WI3 on East Table is also in.

Today, I walked to the top of the Rap Wall (up the left gully and across the top) and dug out the anchor on Chuck D. It took me about 15 minutes plus chopping. I'd hate to do it after a big snowfall. The anchor to the right of Chuck D is still exposed, though you'll have to chip ice off the chains. There are a couple tree rap anchors on top, including 2 next to the huge broken snag...those will get you to the main portion of the wall.

nice work guys.

Yeah, it would be nice to be able to do a bulk photo deleting...

A couple more photos for fun: Pitch 2 traverse Forest following P3 in the box gully. The last steep bit

It's pretty scratchy with some icy bits in the dihedral, but nowhere enough ice for screws (rarely more than 1/2"). Most of it was drytooling, with some verglass, and firm snow on lower angle terrain. The moss is frozen and provided the best sticks. Probably typical conditions on the route, but it's the first time I've done it. Take a solid rock rack from tiny tcus to #3 camalot. Knifeblades and Lost Arrows useful.