kurthicks

GIven the conditions I saw, walking up to the trees and dropping a top rope would probably be a prudent decision.

Saw Pan Dome up at the Baker Ski Area over the weekend. Still very climbable and pretty blue. It looked like there was a lot of snow on it, however.

SCW is snowy, icy, and wet. I wouldn't recommend it to my worst enemy right now.

I was in the Entiat and Mazama yesterday. The Standard in Mazama was only OK in the morning, but was melting fast. Heard and saw signs of many wet loose slides in the gullies there. Goats Beard was falling down. It was in the 50's there. In the Entiat - Ardenvoirs is open at the top again and melting fast. Tyee Falls was falling down when we stood at the base. Frigus might be ok as it has less of a flow than the other routes. It was in the 40's there or higher. Everything I saw in the Tumwater this morning would be terrifying and unprotectable. ice, yes, but terrifying and protection-less including Drury, which was pouring water. Leavenworth was in the 50's yesterday. Go to the alpine when it freezes again.

pending.

38F in leavenworth. Routes at Dog dome were still pretty dry. sunny routes were hurting a good bit more. Watch the temps and see what happens!

I've got a Wild Things Andinista that needs to go. Size L. Blue. Used one day. $200. Pick up in Seattle or buyer pays shipping. Photos tomorrow if folks want them. PM me.

for the pair. I'll be back in Seattle tomorrow afternoon, but the tools are in Leavenworth at the moment. I'm in Seattle mostly.

I've got a set of the green BD fusions that I'm looking to part with. Probably 30 days on them, so they have scratches on the shafts. I might have some spare picks, but can't remember off the top of my head. Buyer pays shipping or we meet in Seattle area or Leavenworth. $300 Pictures to come on Tuesday.

I've got a Nammatj 2 GT that still has the tags. I'd like $450 for it.

Let's make it happen in Feb-March.

Anything on the east side that hasn't been under the cover of clouds/inversion this week is probably not looking very good. In other news, Dog Dome is the place to be if you ask me. You can walk around the left side and top rope most of the routes (combo of rock gear, ice gear, and bolts). Park at the trailhead for Playground Point/Mad Meadows and levitate over the Icicle. These routes were dripping a little bit today, but things are still quite good in the Icicle on shady aspects. Routes in the sun are delaminating this afternoon since the clouds burned off around noon. edit: I wouldn't go near Drury or the Pencil. Telemetry shows it to be 50F up there!

Leavenworth update - Jan 7. These are probably degrading seriously due to rain at the moment! Careno/Candlesteins: nope Rainbow: nope Corner Route: nope Pivotal Moment: nope Millenium Walls: unknown R&D: yep-ish Chicken Gully: yep-ish Heart of Gold area: drips & drabs Hubba Hubba area: yep. It avalanched yesterday, but will certainly again. Mountaineers Creek: unknown Across from Castle: nope Drury: lots of ice, lots of any hazard Pencil: ice all the way. looks thin.

I prefer my students to have at least a 260cm probe and a 300cm is great (albeit heavier). That said, the average burial depth is 140cm and you won't survive if you're over 200cm deep. I carry a 300cm quite often for measuring snowpack depth, although they don't hit the ground in many Cascades locations after January!

5. A month in Alaska without being on the West Buttress of Denali. 4. A great autumn road trip with my wife. 3. Passing the AIARE Level 3 avalanche exam 2. Guiding some classics like the Torment-Forbidden Traverse, Dorado Needle's SW Buttress, and Epinepherine. 1. Passing the AMGA Alpine Guide Exam

The small BD toe bail works well for me with my low-profile ski mountaineering boots. No hammering necessary. Get them as a spare part.

Skied under Death Picnic two days ago. No ice, but darn good skiing!

Get what's cheap and your hand fits into. use a strap to wrap it around your waist. The loop on the back of the harness isn't called the "chalk bag loop"...

Stainless bolt hangers for $1!

As an AIARE Instructor, I have to say that the last statement is entirely untrue and offensive. When teaching avalanche courses all we are concerned about is the student's learning and safety.

he is. rule #1 of ice axes: don't drop them.

If you're going to buy a leash, get a spring leash from a reputable manufacturer. They hang down much lower than simply using a piece of cord. The BD Slinger leash comes to mind.

at the Fixe site. Offsets too! http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/alien-cams

The SE Ridge rates around 5.6, but is mostly low 5th class. It has the added benefits of being largely safe from rockfall and has much nicer views than the standard gully. Many parties will go up the ridge (short pitches are better than long) and descend the gully.

No-star (and one-star) Tuesdays are a great idea in L-town since a lot of the great routes are under-appreciated in the guidebook...