kurthicks

I would like to add that doing crevasse rescue with a half rope is a lot more work than with a single rope--due to rope stretch, prussiks slipping, and the rope cutting in further to the edge. Just something to think about.

I spent almost 20 minutes on it yesterday to no avail. It moves all around, but seems to be keyed in somehow.

I got an email from John Harlin about it. Maybe he's working on compiling everything?

yo pax, let's meet up for a beer. I'll be camping in site 1 for the next few days. I might be able to get out climbing one of those days too.

so what's the pay?

I use standard nylon 6mm cord that is rated to 7.2kn in a single strand. Given that it is always at least doubled in an anchor (it forms a loop after all), I believe that it gives plenty of safety margin. In a three piece anchor, each leg is worth 14.4kn, meaning the anchor can withstand 43.2kn (minus the knot). The choice of joining knot doesn't really matter either, so go with whatever makes you feel good. I use the flat overhand on all of my cordelettes--this knot is often called the EDK--but for v-threads it is standard practice to use a double fisherman. I don't worry about the reduction of strength due wear or aging of my cordelettes since I probably go through at least 10 a year between replacing anchors, bailing, or just losing them. Keep in mind that your internal organs rupture at between 10-12kn (the threshold of survivability as it's known), so all of this is just silly internet debate anyways. link: http://theeyegame.com/speleo/Pubs/rlenergy/Default.htm

NWAC just posted their analysis for the Stevens accident for those of you interested in it. http://www.nwac.us/media/uploads/documents/accidents/2011_2012/Preliminary_Tunnel_Creek_Avalanche_Accident_2-29-2012.pdf

Agreed, cordelettes aren't ideal for truly equalizing anchors--that's why Luebben developed the Equalette (which is an overly complex tool IMO). Anchors need redundancy in most cases and a cordelette is a good tool for achieving that goal if the pieces are spread out vertically or horizontally. It doesn't matter what materials you choose to use to tie/equalize your pieces to form an anchor as long as the gear is good. If the gear isn't good, then all the equalization trickery in the world isn't going to really improve your situation.

Nylon or nylon/dyneema blend for cragging and frontcountry rock usage. Durability/abrasion resistance (and cost) is my key criteria given the amount of time I spend using this gear in this terrain. The added benefit of being more dynamic than dyneema is also a plus. My guests like nylon since it looks beefier than dyneema, especially for their rappel extension/anchor sling. Also easier to inspect for replacement since nylon fades over time. Dyneema/Spectra for alpine and ice routes. Weight and bulk are my primary concerns for alpine routes; reduced water absorption is also key for ice routes, especially here in the PNW. Don't factor 2 while using this as an anchor sling (a.k.a. daisy chain) as it has basically no dynamic properties (google the DMM test video). 7mm cordelettes for cragging. 6mm for the alpine.

I think Blake is saying that you should analyze what stuff you are dragging up routes and leave what you don't need or use behind. In my evaluation of what gear to carry and what to leave behind, I find the cordelette to be an indispensable tool for trad routes, alpine, and ice climbs-- for equalizing anchors, building rap anchors or threads, and for rescue purposes. I certainly agree with everything else on the list though. Tailor your equipment selection to the route you are doing, the current conditions, and your abilities.

Dan is correct, although NWAC did their usual midday update on Sunday at 3pm (after the accidents) which upgraded the danger rating from Considerable to High on all slopes above 5000'. Here's the forecast you would have had if you checked NWAC on Sunday morning (produced Saturday morning at 11am). http://www.nwac.us/archive/sabsea_2012-02-18-1055.html

Graham's been in and out a bit recently. He'll get back to you.

To be clear--it's an additional 4 miles each way and in the last 10 years I can't remember one when the road was open to the trailhead in March. The approach to the trailhead takes about 1.5 hours from the car (then an additional 5 miles and about 2000' to the lake), while the descent is just over an hour from the trailhead back to the car. some folks do it in a day...but if it's your first time into the Colchuck Lake area, you should go in the night before, scope the approach and route, bivy, and climb the next day before hiking out.

It depends on the type of ice. Soft glacier ice - put the teeth about 10 degrees down from the hanger (i.e. hanger high). A combo of threads and leverage give holding power in soft ice. waterfall ice - put the teeth upwards about 10 degrees from perpendicular (i.e. hangar low). Threads give holding power in dense ice. A more important question is how you'll clear the (probably overhanging) snowy crevasse lip with only a single ice axe.

Take the Phantom Slide approach. ----------- Part at the groomer lot of Alpental--this is on the left about 200' past the main parking lot with the footbridge. Walk up the south facing hill on your right towards the Alpental waterfalls. Once at the base of the waterfalls, veer left into the woods for about 100' and then go straight up through two steep snowed up cliff bands (there is often ski or bootpack here). After about 300' of elevation gain, move back to the right to the edge of the Phantom Slide path (be wary of avalanche conditions) and climb straight up to about 4900'. Then continue leftward and up into a lower angled clearing that leads to a notch in the West Ridge at about 5200'. (1-2 hours to here depending on conditions). From the notch, downclimb a couple hundred feet in the obvious gully (~45 degrees) to the north into Thunder Creek cirque. This section can be corniced and wind loaded. Once at the bottom, traverse across to the route of your choice. Approach times depend on conditions, but can be as little as 2 hours total.

I just made an updated topo for the NW Face of Snoqualmie Mountain. The large dots approximate belay locations. I'll do a regular topo of all the current routes (Pineapple Express, Blue Moon, NY Gully, LA Express) sometime, but I need more motivation for that project than I currently possess. The full-sized version can be found here

We fumbled a sling on the north face of Chair Peak today. I don't want it back, but whomever found it can rest assured that it has good history and should be put on your rack.

Some on sale at 20% off: http://www.backcountry.com/store/subcat/4/sale/Avalanche-Safety.html Of the ones on sale, I can't recommend the Freeride or the original Tracker since it they are not 3 antenna models and can make deep burials more challenging to locate.

The seasonal closure of Midnight Rock in Leavenworth should be on here too. No dates posted on the USFS site yet though.

Looking for a ski partner for the Wallowas next week. No hut reservations. I'm prepping for a Level 3 avy course and am planning spending a good bit of time digging pits and doing stability analysis stuff. Definitely logging some turns too! Planning on a mix of day tours around Wing Ridge and an overnight towards Aneroid, depending on conditions. I'll be leaving from Seattle on Monday and have to be back by Saturday, but will likely return on Friday. Word is that good pow still abounds... Any takers? PM me. Kurt

Not really a place to be cheap IMO. Get a modern digital 3 antenna beacon...but find it on sale.

The best liquid is one that stays liquid AND one that you actually drink. Throw some tea in a 1 liter Thermos. I also take another .5L nalgene filled with hot water that is nestled inside a beer cozy. The Nalgene lives in my jacket and I drink it first.

Dartmouth? University of New Hampshire? UMass? No great mountains really, but great cragging. Perfect for a grad student's schedule.

It works often, but not necessarily all the time depending on snow surface conditions. Be sure to practice crevasse rescue with the butterfly knots in place. The 6:1 drop loop (a.k.a. Canadian Drop Loop) is often the easiest rescue method.

That's a lot bigger than it looks from the lake. cool!