kurthicks

NOLS does this traverse often. perhaps you should get in touch with them? From what I've seen watching them do it, you cross near the saddle on the SW ridge of Torment around the Pt. 6750 saddle.

tie off your kiwi coils with a barrel knot (a.k.a. half a double fishermens). No need for a backup carabiner. Then do what Chris suggested -- tie a bight knot and clip in with a locker.

Indeed, I have been told by the USFS in Leavenworth that bivying on or below the North Ridge of Stuart is out of the permit zone.

use the Kiwi Coil if you want to shorten a 'single' rated rope. way easier and cleaner.

For the bits: Just get some from your local hardware store. The SDS bits are the ticket for most hand drills (like the Petzl). I like to carry a spare bit most of the time.

I clipped some of your replacements at the Powerline Wall at Erie the other day. Way, way more fun than the old mank that was there!

access to the North Ridge in late season is best accomplished by going through Harrison Camp, crossing the lower Coleman at about 5000' on the flats, then gaining the Roosevelt to get up to the North Ridge. Not too bad usually, except for gaining the ridge itself--which can present moat/crevasse problems.

any update on this project?

I used my mammut serenity for 5 years, whereas a Beal only lasts me one season. Mammut's rock for durability.

maybe the Ptarmigan Traverse?

Looks like a fun day out Mark. How were the bugs? Nice meeting you up at WA Pass last week. Hope the climb with Fred went well!

thanks guys, but i've come up with a plan. Cheers!

I'm somewhat looking for an alpine partner for this weekend. I'm more than willing to rope gun and/or guide if you'd prefer to sit back and enjoy the ride. route ideas: Shuksan - Arayete Mix-up Peak - East Face WA Pass or Wine Spires Black Peak - NE Ridge (1 day) Ellation Looking to leave tomorrow sometime and would like to be back on Sunday evening. Kurt

There is a 5.6-7 runout bolted slab at the bolt launch. Be prepared for a ground fall most of the pitch and lots of pine needles. A #1 camalot help reduce the runout between the low bolts. Walk off to the left. There are some fun top ropes along the railroad tracks. There is a 5.10x thin crack somewhere along the beach.

So we know this is a problem at the trailhead, but do break-ins happen in town itself?

Indeed--'outside the permit zone' means that Enchantment permits are not required there as far as I have been told. The USFS person in Ltown reaffirmed that for me the last time I was in their office. I believe you have to be above the meadows on the Mountaineer Creek approach for it to be outside the boundary. They were discussing implementing overnight permits for Ingalls and the remainder of the Stuart area going forward though. Perhaps a call is in order?

The bivies that are high on the north side of stuart used to be outside the permit zone. Has this changed? here is the current map on the USFS website:

When placing bolts, do it right the first time (stainless steel with stainless hangers) and consider the long-term impact to our limited resource of rock. Route developers are doing no one a favor by placing sub-par hardware. Being cheap is not an excuse.

Getting onto the North Ridge in late season: Traverse east onto the Roosevelt Glacier from the Harrison Camp (Mirkwood). Cross the lower Coleman around 5000' (the flats), onto the medial moraine near the righthand waterfall, go up onto the Roosevelt. Cruise up to the route. The Coleman HW has significantly more objective danger than the North Ridge.

This is a Climb Tech Removable bolt. These are not what MattP mentioned in the thread about Darrington. They are generally not useful for climbing applications. This is a removable and replaceable bolt (Powers Power-bolt). These are, and should be, the standard for placing in climbing areas. All of the pieces can be removed and, thus, the hole can be reused. Please use 304 stainless steel bolts with stainless hangers so they'll last 100 years.

take some insect repellant.

The old standby (NOLS formula) amount is 4oz per person per day in summer, more in winter. That equates to 80oz for you. You can probably get by with less, but how much less depends on how careful you are with water melting, excessive boiling, and desired amount of hot drinks.

North Ridge of Mt. Baker

Washington Pass Lexington Tower Tooth & Claw July 21, 2012 Pitch 2: 5.11a. new anchor. (none of the 6 lead bolts replaced) Pitch 3: 5.10+. new anchor. (none of the 3 lead bolts replaced) Pitch 4: 5.11+. replaced bolt at crux (2 or 3 old lead bolts remain) Pitch 5: 5.10. replaced anchor. replaced the one lead bolt at roof. Pitch 6: 5.11d/12a. new anchor. Replaced all 5 lead bolts. Pitch 7.5: Left a slung block to rap the route where it turns to 4th class. There are 11 protection bolts on pitches 2-4 that still need to be replaced (ran out of daylight). Pitches 2, 3, and 6 received bolt anchors to protect the dying trees at those stances. ** all bolts & belays are referenced from Selected Climbs Vol. 1. Old & New. You decide! Mank Old pitch 6 tree new pitch 6 anchor Replacing the pitch 6 crux bolts Fun on the East Face on the way up.

Easiest: Place a piece. pull on the gear through the move. clip rope. continue climbing. longer crux: place the piece. Stand in a sling, perhaps give it a bounce, & winch yourself up. clip in the rope (exactly when depends on how good the piece is). clip yourself to the piece with a biner or short draw. repeat.