so the rockies didn't suck at all. as the matter of fact i enjoyed 2 straight weeks of sunshine with some of the most stable snow conditions i have ever seen in the past 13 years. some of the routes (field in particular) are chipped to shit, so you end up climbing ladders. Pillsner is in 4+ shape, Even Thomas Creek routes are WI3 at the most. both left and right weeping wall are WI3-4 at the most. ddin't go to the ghost, so i don't know what shape the routes are in.
Janez and i did French Reality on wed. The most amazing line! there was another party on Nemesis, so we had the whole headwall to ourselves. the route wasn't chipped to shit, so you actually had to swing your tools now and then. after doing several routes on this amazing wall i am convinced this is THE BEST area for doing hard long mix and ice routes. the exposure is amazing, the lines are superb and i am exhausted every time i climb something on this wall.
acid howl is not in, but all the rest is. nemesis (first hand info) is in great shape, so is suffer machine. the routes just to the left of suffer machine are not in anymore, but Mr Hullot area is in fine shape. looked like French Toast was in too.
team Sample/Slawinski/Wallsh did FWA of Mt Alberta in fine 3 day effort (via Japanese route), so one of the last unclimbed peaks in winter received proper winter ascent- congrats!