glassgowkiss

so forrest, first Pole to ascent Everest? Wanda Rutkiewicz in 1979, before polish national expedition did fwa. she was invited by austrian team. so what's your point anyway? as the matter of fact in the 80's there were 3 female national expeditions to 8000m peaks. there is a book by Ewa Matuszewska "Uciec jak najwyzej" and a couple of other books (don't remember titles, one was by Wanda Rutkiewicz), so there is your source of info. read them and then we will talk. get the facts before voicing your opinion. some facts for you: Wanda Rutkiewicz: 1. Mount Everest 16.10.1978 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 3. K-2 25.06.1986 4. Shisha Pangma 18.09.1987 5. Gasherbrum II 12.07.1989 6. Gasherbrum I 16.07.1990 7. Cho-Oyu 26.09.1991 8. Annapurna 22.10.1991 Anna Czerwinska: 1. Broad Peak (Rocky Summit) 30.06.1983 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 3. Mount Everest 21.05.2000 4. Shisha Pangma Central 06.10.2000 5. Lhotse 21.05.2001 6. Cho Oyu 25.09.2001 7. Gasherbrum II 02.08.2003 Ewa Panejko- Pankiewicz: 1. Gasherbrum I 16.07.1990 2. Shisha Pangma Middle 02.05.1994 Krystyna Palmowska: 1. Broad Peak 30.06.1983 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 Halina Kruger-Syrokomska, Anna Okopinska- G2 G3 FA: 1975 Polish Female Expedition. there is full list of all ppolish climbers who summited on 8000m peaks:http://www.gia.alpinizm.pl/pismo/gia/pol8000.htm and as you can see it completly oposes your statement.

"Jennifer Jordan will be giving a talk tomorrow, Tues Jan 25, 7:30 PM, in KANE 220 at UW on her new book, Savage Mountain. The book chronicles the lives of the first five women to summit K2, three of whom perished on the descent. The remaining two died several years later on other Himalayan peaks. (The sixth woman summitted K2 in 2004.) The book portrays their strong independent spirits, the turmoil of entering a tradiationally male sport, their insatiable [lethal] desire to climb in the death zone, their struggle to find balance between mountains and family..." i am so fucking sick and tired of this bullshit. fucking bitch is trying to make money under this pseudo-feminism banner. this is a complete load of crap tranformed into paper. fact: alpine climbing is a male dominated sport (activity)- so what. it's not like climbers discriminate against women. it was the situation with sport climbing 20 years ago- look now, it's about 50/50. and at this point there are women climbing almost at the level of men. and i don't see much of discrimination happening. lack of women (not male domination) in alpine climbing exists because they choose not to do it (yeah, smart). i wonder how did she contact Wanda Rutkiewicz? since she is dead for the last 10 years (weedgee board?). this is lame

"the turmoil of entering a tradiationally male sport"- this is a load of bullshit. one of the women who climbed k2 was wanda rutkiewicz, along with burarrds. she died later on on kanchenjunga. now the reason i call it bullshit that the only reason it's "traditionally male sport" is that female climbers have usually zero interest in this kind of climbing. i mean give me a fucking brake- this is another conspiracy theory. let's face it- alpine climbing on 8000m peaks is brutal. it's a lot of hard work. so if women in general choose not to do it- fine. but don't try to shove some pseudo- feminism into alpine climbing, i just don't buy it. and as the matter of fact wanda shared this opinion. so jennifer jordan can fuck off

gettin' desperate. thinking skaha this weekend.

so is it on or what? and where and when. bill should show up so, what's up with darin? fuck this town is lame!!! it looks like they add bromium to the water- people are so dosile!

Because I can't afford to replace my existing Axars, and what's more, if I can only have one set of tools for now, I need something that plunges well in the alpine, where my main interest lies. So, I have to make them somewhat liveable for WI climbing that I *occasionally* do, and the freelock leashes that are on them right now just aren't as user friendly for that. if you "climb" stuffthat majority you do is plunging you can get by with light straight shaft tool and ski poles with w whipped.

i just don't know how much sense leashes make at this point. after climbing for about a year now, i am convinced leashes suck. i went 3 weeks ago on mr freeze with my leash tools and they absolutely suck. i don't think you get less tired, can't match hands, your wrists are restricted, hands rest more against the ice, so i don't see any advantages to leashes. this reminds me when i started climbing everyone was still using ambilical cords with the tools. i think switching to leashels is mre mental barrier then anything. i was just watching in quebec a couple of newbies learnig to ice climb and they were using leashless tools. they were doing it quite well. then one of them took some cobras and it was miserable for him.

so where does it hurt? is it on your finger or in your forearm? usually when it hurts on the finger itself we are talking tendon pulley, if the forearm is torn muscle belly or a tendon. the two later tend to last not so long, but the tendon pulley might last for up to 6 months.also - doest it hurt crimping or openhanded? might be also ia ligament. usually ice, forearm stretches, light muscle balancing excercises bring results within few months. figure out what happen. are your forearm flexor muscles overdeveloped and chronically tight? brace will hinder blood flow to the area, so usually they hinder the recovery. ice for first 72 hours, then ice/heat. light stretching at first, then more agressive after the pain is gone. then light stretching followed by some moderate climbing and then u are ready to start training again. go slow, don't fuck it up for good.

so what is your question?

fuckin' a - so many sheep so little time...

i'd say- stay home

ok dru, current temp in littlewet is +4C at 1;30 pm. it's -1C at top of 7Th heaven (Blackomb). anyway, the point is that it is warm. we had 2 weeks of real winter in hope/frazier river area and it's spring time temps with copius volume of rain. while the avi conditions are high in the rockies, they are extreme on the coast. besides, there are several areas in the rockies (like ghost waporius, some stuff in the kananaskis), where there is no avi danger at all, so there are still options for climbing even on a weekend like this one. plus, let's face it- they had ice since end of october, so if you don't go out for a weekend by this time is not such a bad deal. on the other hand we didn't get any ice till end of december. so for ice season here these temps are a real pisser. dru, let's face it, you can't even start comparing coast conditions to those in the rockies as far as ice goes. they have it, we don't, so don't try to pretend like there is even a comparison

i know how the conditions are since i talked to someone from calgary 2 nights ago. it's not that bad. they had 2 weeks of temps as low as -40C and highs of the day -30C. so the ground is so frozen at this point that even a couple of days of warm temps won't melt much. anyway, it'll get cold enough soo, and there is is plenty of ice for climbing left for the rest of the season. unlike here. dru, you just admit it, they have conditions for ice we can only dream about. and no, 2 weeks of decent climbing around here every 5 or 7 years don't mean shit. that's why every other wanker there can lead wi5 or 6 while here people spray about top-roping wi3.

i don't think anything will be left even around lilloowet, check this out: Today .. A few showers. Wind becoming south 30 km/h this afternoon. High 11. Tonight .. Cloudy. 40 percent chance of showers this evening. Wind south 30 km/h becoming light this evening. Low 5. Friday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers in the afternoon. High 8. Saturday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low 5. High 10. Sunday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low 4. High 8. Monday .. Periods of rain. Low 5. High 8. i can't believe this!and this is january??!!!

Text Forecast from Environment Canada Banff: Issued 5.00 AM MST Thursday 20 January 2005 Winter storm warning in effect. Today .. Periods of rain or freezing rain. Snow above 1500 metres. Snowfall amount 5 to 10 cm. High 2. Tonight .. Periods of snow. Amount 5 to 10 cm. Low minus 7. Friday .. Clearing in the morning. High minus 3. Saturday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low minus 5. High plus 4. Sunday .. Cloudy. Low 2. High 5. Monday .. Cloudy. 30 percent chance of showers. Low minus 3. High plus 3. doesn't look like anything will be collapsing soon.

i am sure if you go to the mountains right now we will hear about it i the form of news of another search and rescue. look at avi forecast. as far as lillooet, maybe marble could be ok, if you like climbing in the rain. temps in clinton were much colder, so i don't think ice would be that bad. or go to the rockies son. South Coast Date Issued: 1/19/2005 12:00:00 AM Valid Until: 1/21/2005 12:00:00 AM Forecast of Avalanche Danger: Wednesday Thursday Friday Alpine High High Considerable Treeline High High Considerable Below Treeline High Considerable Considerable Travel Advisory: The saying “unusual weather brings unusual avalanches” best describes the evolving situation over the next few days. Unprecedented amounts of rain since Monday has saturated the snowpack with water causing it to become unstable and avalanche. There is a great deal of uncertainty in the integrity of the snow at treeline and below. Most experienced people do not feel confident predicting where and when avalanches will occur. But we are all assuming that these slides may initiate in or run into unexpected locations. We recommend that people continue to stay well away from avalanche terrain. Typical routes through the forest may also not be safe due to unstable slopes high above in the alpine. Avalanche Activity: Natural avalanches to Size 3.0, which are powerful enough to destroy a car or easily bury you, have occurred on a variety aspects initiating at treeline and above. Larger avalanches may have occurred but observers cannot see them yet. We expect that the bulk of avalanche activity has passed, but more avalanches are likely. Some of these slides may occur from unexpected locations at treeline and below. Snow Pack: Heavy rain has saturated the snowpack causing it to become very wet and weak. New snow above 1900m is being transported into windslabs primarily on north and east aspects. These slabs are unstable and will likely slide if you ride on them. Weather: Heavy rain will continue Wednesday and early Thursday below about 1900 m and snow at higher elevations. Expect to see a brief break in precipitation late Thursday through Friday before another strong storm hits the region. The wind on Wednesday and Thursday is expected to be strong from the southwest. Issued By: GJohnson

yeah, but they have good weather for this weekend

there is an article on climbing in turkish rivera on www.8a.nu there is a link to the map to Antalya area: http://www.adiyamanli.org/MapofTurkey/turk_map.htm there is a link tio the climbing part: http://www.8a.nu/site2/ anyway, there is also bouldering and longer routes on limestone, but the info is limmited. I am sure once you are at that campground you'll be able to find a lot of first hand info. realtivley cheap (with current shape of $$ no country is cheap) and very nice country to visit. learn some basic turkish, you can get by with german, but not too many people speak english. as far as skiing, i would not bother. there are peaks up to 4000m (14 000ft), but they are by the border with iraq Cilo Dagh (pronaun Silo Da) is the mountain range. Gelyasin, Keskin Tepe, Karatepe have walls up to 3000 ft. Another range is Sat Dagh with 600m N Face of Kizilyar.

yeah, there is nothing like smell of fresh blood first thing in the morning.... sounds like bad scene.

slab in the gym? so bunch of you overweight fat fucks can get up on something without being loughed at? sorry dr flash, but gym is for picking up chicks not for betting strong.

so Dale, how did the comp treat you?

we did not get on nw passage at all. my pussy started to ache when looking at it. proud line though! instead we went around the corner and did as seen on tv. very nice climb with a lot of character.

that was jia condon and partner. i talked to him last afternoon and he said he did white blotter 2 times and he thinks it's wi6. looks like a nice line, i'd like to get on it at some point. as far as disapointment on sun, i wasn't that keen on it, since we climbed fairly hard on sat, so i was a bit tired. last pitch of plum is awsome and i always wanted to do this climb. i don't think any of them will last through this warm/wet spell, so get them while you can next time.

i know. and that's the day i am talking about. this info is from coley.