glassgowkiss

i have my blow-up sheep for winter, but what are avalanches? and wtf am i supposed to do with skis? i know nelson-lewis used heli to get to the base.

i already did hike it- no big deal now. i am talking winter.

does anybody know how much is a heli ride to the base of slessee?

for me is just i don't like heavy packs and i also don't like to be cold at night, so i try to go car to car. plus i like looking back and see the milage covered, not like a chest beat, but more like my personal test.

you know, as i was climbing this thing, my thought were like: shit, what an overgrown choss heap! this would be great route in winter! i am serious- this route should be winter classic, a lot turf and plenty of ledges to sleep on in a tent. i am surprise that it has only 1 winter ascent so far. the rock is made for dry- tooling too.

no snow on the route as of 8/21. you can fill up water just before the start of the climb. we did drink a bunch on slabs and we had 3L for the route and ended up drinking only one. btw- i think it's easy to do this route in a day with a light pack. you'll be in a shade most of the time, exept for the descent. btw there is only about 10 pitches of real climbing.

trying to get back to my car after climbing on slessee is one of the most suck-ass things i have done in a long time. next time i am going over cross-over or i am using two cars.

Pope you fuck. You keep spreading lies based on rumors and innuendo. You accused climbers on Prusik of bolting on rappel. This is a clear lie. I talked to a reliable source at Metolius and I know for fact that all the bolts were placed on lead with hand drill. So my advice to you, you fucking lire is to shut the fuck up.

yeah, i have a comment you stupid asshole. why don't you go climb that thing and skip clipping the bolt and show us how it's done. all you do is post on this web page and keep shooting your fucking gob off about past glory days. even better- why don't you shove a gerbil up your ass and push it with a 10 inch dildo and shut the fuck up for a while.

is one 60m rope enough to get down (regular descent, not the cross over)? thanks- r

oh yeah, like we are supposed to be impressed with your reposts from ass-antionist.cum? poop- go climbing you dolt, it's good for you. how come i didn't see you today at index? kudos to whoever trimmed the trees back and shoved some shit dirt off the ledges- keep up good work. ps. fred is for bolts at the crags, so are many others, like greg child, swenson or kurtyka. you represent old minority, you are an angry wash-up.

My mistake. I generally disregard Rumr's posts. He seems to have nothing to say. wow gee poop, like you have something interesting to say? you don't even climb anymore you fader

hey poop, just keep shooting your fucking mouth off. i can show you plenty of adveture climbing and bring fresh supply of depends.

are crampons and axe needed for approach and descent?

check your pm

i think the choss was covered by the snow in your case. there was a solitary snow patch at the very top on a flat ledge. from the glacier to the top and back to the glacier we did the whole thing in rock shoes. yeah, looking at the picture we fucked up on the descent and went down south buttress- go figure.

agree- on 5.4 really doesn't matter. piss off wanker

and pope is washed up angry looser

yeah, like people actually climbing hard routes. but most of the people on this bb don't know what it means. instead they decide to relive their "glory days" and have another meaningless fight about bolts on some road side choss heap- fucking pathetic here is the sory: On Sunday 17 July Bruno Pederiva and Mario Prinoth made the first repeat of the 'LarcherVigiani' on the south face of the Marmolada. This multi-pitch testpiece had been first ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in summer 2000 and then freed, in one single 12 hour push, on 13/08/2001. Four years and a series of attempts later Pederiva and Prinoth redpointed the route, which weighs in at 8a, 7b obligatory, in 12 hours. The route takes a line up the pillar to the left of the Soldà, with difficulties never less than 7b. http://www.planetmountain.com/English/ho...655&-search

while you posers were busy clownpunching shelaque loads in bolt debates and other bullshit topics: http://www.planetmountain.com/English/ho...655&-search

one thing for sure- you are not going to learn this stuff on internet. only hours spent climbing count. you might get an idea or two, but only hours roped up count at the end, so we can pretty much close this topic. everything else is just pointless speculation like i said- majority of accident is a simple accumulation of bad decission mixed with bad luck.

http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/cities/can/Pages/CABC0279.htm looks good to me

99% of accidents follows this pattern: a couple of bad decissions mixed with pure bad luck. most of the time we can get away with a slap on the wrist, but sometimes shit hits the fan. imo having a hammer and some pins would be a good idea for going alpine. it's a norm for the canadian rockies, but for the cascades very few people take it. hammer will allow you to test integrity of the blocks better then anything. pins are resonably cheap way to get your ass down. and for crying out don't rap of a single point. have a back up- second can pull it, but back up your rap. and put a new sling on old anchor.

partner bailed- need someone for squish for that day. have rack and car and i'll be staying in Vancouver sun night.

i want to add that there is another option now. it's the new Babanov-Slawinski route on the face left of west rib. a lot of easy ploding with some M4 sections. they did it in 14 hours push. sounds like a good alternative. they did aclamatize by climbing west but, but you can do the same by climbing sultana ridge on foraker instead