Sol

That's right...didn't you do this last year? Nope, a couple years ago i did w face of balanced rock one day then south face of prusik the next, closest i've come to linking them up. I've always wanted to solo serpentine, but just haven't saddled up, nice job!

What a day of classic alpine rock! Killer.

there is no such thing

Trip: Prusik Pk. - Solid Gold III 5.11a Date: 6/14/2008 Trip Report: Wanting to get as far away from the sherpa glacier as possible and equally motivated by this, and this, this past saturday, Dave Elder and I climbed Solid Gold on the south face of Prusik Pk. We'd have to agree with first ascencionest Wayne Wallace when he describes the route as a "masterpeice" as we were truly amazed by the flawless rock and splitter climbing. The topo was great and so was the rack. We didn't use the 1/4 incher at the first belay, and we didn't nail because we missed the last pitch entirely. I started up what I thought was 5.8 cracks that led to the perfect 5.11a corner, and, before I had a chance to second geuss myself, was soon cranking out a 10c "changing corners" style variation that topped out on the ridge. Though the new variation is rad (right of the 5.11 corner), anything described as perfect on this route is worth another go, and i'm sure it won't be long until i'm slogging out there again... Dave starting to feel the stoke: One hell of a crag, the impeccable south face: Holy crap, P1, the solid gold pitch: Here's looking back down at P1, fingers in a corner, bad ass: Myself seconding P2: Beginning P3, we easily linked P3 & 4: The P4 "changing corners" variation: Topped out on the west ridge: The really cool thing about this climb, is that its actually just the hardman sit-start for the classic west ridge: Insert monkey call here: BOOM! Gear Notes: Double set to #2, single #3. One rope. Approach Notes: Mostly snow free to upper snow lake

i'm interested. pm with beta.

1. monday june 16th 2. index 3. leavenworth 4. 2 5. I can drive but would prefer not to, subaru that gets 27mpg. PM me.

there's a bit of fresh snow up there, but nothing too much, and its starting to consolidate well.

anywhere

Nice pics doods!

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier Date: 6/8/2008 Trip Report: Well, I decided to take my own advice and give the ice cliff glacier route on Mt. Stuart a whirl. The Chris and I were amazed at the perfect conditions. Thunker neve from camp to the top of the couloir, them perfect wind-packed ice and snow to the summit. We thought the line was dramatic and highly alpine, with endless tool-swingin and front-pointing. There were two other parties of three below us on route, a good time was had by all. Props to team three for enduring all the ice and snowfall from above and for gettin-er-done in a day. She looked mighty uninviting the night before: Deja vu: The Ice Cliff: ] Boom! Topping out on the ice cliff: Upper couloir and the girth pillar: Towards the top of the couloir: Looking down at team three: Team two on the summit ridge: Summit views: Team three on the summit ridge: Team two starting the descent down the sherpa: It really was amazing how much the mountain had changed in 9 days. The snow and ice had improved alot and new snow had filled in the rocks significantly. Conditions won't get much better... Gear Notes: Tools and poons, 3-4 pickets, couple of screws, few cams and a few nuts.

ladybug photo?

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 5/29/2008 Trip Report: Last thursday Jimbo and I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir. Overall, the route was varied and the climbing was aesthetic and high-quality. As we had anticipated, the route was in lean conditions, but the scrappiness was fun, and all the more memorable. A leisurely afternoon start on wednesday got us to the bivy in the early evening. The climbers trail is in good shape and almost snow-free up to the lower basin. We left camp around 4:45 and started plodding our way up to the stuart glacier. It was a beautiful sunrise. Jimbo below the Ice Cliff: Hell of a deal. That's Colchuck Balanced Rock on the right there: Cloudy skies the night before hadn't allowed the snow to freeze up very well and before we knew it we were post-holing slowly up the stuart glacier. The couloir: We were wondering whose tracks those were heading up the north ridge: The conditions improved dramatically as we headed up to the base of the couloir. We were soon enjoying perfect one-stick neve and ice. We simulclimbed with much enjoyment up to the first ice step. This is where things got a little scrappy. The first ice step was more like a flowing waterfall and was decomposing by the moment. After a valiant attempt, Jimbo said no-go and came back to the belay quite soaked. So I gave-er on a rock line to the right. A few pick welded nuts and some disintegrating footholds, and it went, at about 5.7+. Good neve followed up to the second step which we just thrashed our way through. Wasn't much left of it by the time we were done. The direct line to the notch looked sun-baked and rotten, so we did a traverse to the right. This topped out on a cool knife-edge snow ridge. A long mixed pitch got us onto the west ridge. Jimbob topping out on the knife edge: We were so concerned with snow conditions in the couloir that we hadn't really given the west ridge much thought. Neither of us had climbed it before, and we didn't really know where to go. We figured it all out eventually. At this point the snow was quite rotten, which made things slower, but the climbing was sweet, on clean, blocky, granite. We topped out 12 hours after leaving camp. The late hour and an unfamiliar descent kept us moving after a brief lamping session on the summit. The snow was super-nasty on top and the descent to the false summit was tedious. We downclimbed the entire sherpa glacier couloir on breakable crust. The bergschrund is filled in nicely right now. A few hours later we were back at camp, very satisfied with our first alpine outing of the year. Gear Notes: Couple pickets, couple screws, set of nuts, 3 stubbly blades, two hexes, 5 cams, tools and poons. Approach Notes: Bueno.

i've been hitchiking back and forth between index and l-worth. please someone start: climbingcarpool.com

Hyperspace Go to lower 8 mile buttress Climb Mr. Tremendous 2p 10b Radio Sex 11b Lazy Boy 11c On way back to the car stop at small world buttress Climb Haul World 11c Warm down on the 5.9 Or climb the 5.12 thin crack and the other 5.12 face Climb every route on jello tower

we climbed the stuart glacier couloir last thursday. though not tc, i would imagine that tc falls out of condition even faster than sgc. for most of the couloir we had bomber one-stick neve. the first ice step was rotten and falling down so we rock climbed to the left of it and on the second step we just climbed through the decomposing waterfall. from our vantage of tc, the couloiur's looked good, but there was definetly no runnels connecting them. for what its worth, the ice cliff glacier looks like its in fine shape right now.

dirt bag camp past mountaineer's creek is currently empty.

lower lot may or may not be locked. but if its unlocked and you park in there chances are it will be locked when you get back. there should be room near the gate by the new mt baker raven sign to park out of the way.

boom!

just my 2 cents: i've used a 70 m lead line with a skinny little tag line and i though it rocked. it definetly excels in new routing, exploratory activities. strung out on crap rock after a couple of spicy pitches we were able to reach terra firma in one, long-ass, thankgod rap. the nice thing is the tag line just stashes away until you need it. i've used the knot jam technique with OP rap rings. I think the system really excels when your pushing yourself on hard and steep climbing when big falls are likely. much better to have a thick cord catching whippers than skinny lines turning your 20 foot falls into 30 footers. like people have said stack the tag line in a stuff sack, static 6mm should work best, and have the first climber down do a lengthy test pull.

Leavenworth is a bit far for me. Although if you are passing though along Highway 2 in the future we could put something together... sounds good.

hospital corner

I like beer. i've got a pile of old gear that should be right up your alley. give me a day or so and ill compile it and shoot you a photo and we can barter from there. any chance of delivery to l-worth? sol

bo derek in lworth is steep.