Sol

in my opinion, you do not if you use the same bolt hole. if you move the hole, even a little, then i would say yes.

sounds like a bad-ass rescue. way to keep it together to all involved and best wishes for a speedy recovery.

thanks for the links jason! let's ressurect midnite, anybody been up there yet?

awesome, i love that route. there's still so much snow at artist point. i can't beleive someone smeared shit on the summit of mt shuksan.

nice, I want some.

sweet!

yo dudes from wyoming and utah who were on liberty crack on july 17th we found your camera. holler, we want to give it back.

don't know what your plan on working on, but i hope to replace some bolts at midnight rock this fall. would love to team up and get'er done. oh yeah, and get hyped, cuz midnight opens in less than 48 hours!

Acid baby?

Yeah, the moonlit descent was a go. I should mention that like the beckey guide says, the first 6 pitches are very high quality and will offer a solid and challenging day out. You can rap from anywhere with two ropes and don't have to deal with the heady crux pitch. Jens and Max are up there for the next 3 days trying to free it so everybody should send them some stoke!

Leaving ltown tonight at 10PM. Driving to lake diablo via Hwy 2 and 9 and 530 and 20 Return by 3 pm on friday the 25th. Driving solo in my subaru. 360-927-1997 sol

Trip: Liberty Bell - Independence Route V 5.11 A3 Date: 7/17/2008 Trip Report: On thursday July 17th Jens Holsten and I teamed up again, this time heading north to the idyllic spires of Washington Pass. Jens has been pondering this proud route up the east face of liberty bell for a while, while I had never even heard of it. The plan was a free attempt, so we brought a bit too much crap, including a hammer, pins, and scrub brushes. The climbing was brilliant, up to pitch 7 the rock was high-quality, and overall the route was hard, thin, and sustained. If anyone wants specific beta, PM me and i'll do my best. But on the 5.11 and crux 5.12 pitch's, one should be ready for hard off-balancy climbing, hard-fought thin gear, and runouts on questionable fixed pins. There are many fixed pins missing from beckey's topos, just so you know.. The proud east faces of the spires: The route from near the base, it heads left to the clean white streaks, and then tackles the myriad of roofs (baer ceiling, cascade ceiling, and well-hung ceiling) on the right: Pitch 1, 5.8: Jens topping out on quality face climbing, Pitch 3, 5.10d: Jens at the belay after an on-sight attempt of the 5.12 crux pitch (nice try bro!): The pictures don't really do this pitch justice. There's a wild sideways dyno to and tree and then it's heady. Anyhoo, we still had the chance of bailing after the crux pitch. But jens was feeling the stoke so we climbed on. The sun began to set, the full moon was a rising, and we took every wrong turn on the "easy" upper part of the route that we could. We eventually topped out, prolly around 11 PM, lamped on the summit for a while, and hiked back to the car in the amazing moon-lit ambience of Washington Pass. Gear: Thin to win. Doubles to #2, single #3 and #4. At least triples of blue alien and purple tcu size, RP's including 2-3 blue HB brassies. Double ropes.

BOOM!

not needed. camp wherever strikes your fancy.

you nailed it clint. thanks!

Awesome looking trip Tom! Any pics of the NE face of swiss?

i think i know. kris looks quite stoked in that shot.

I think so. Darin are you out there?

Nice job guys! So sorry to hear about the loss of your friend, i'm sure you made him proud.

ha

Dragonfly beta shot:

Thx everyone. cool! to clarify, i'm not talking about the pitches up to the pteradactyl bivy ledge. i'm talking the 3 slab pitches right off the aasgard talus that climb to the jingus approach ledges. check out the topo and you will understand. Depends on what grade V your comparing it too. It's a much longer day out than liberty crack. Backbone is 4+. Stacked with hard climbing: Loose and dirty 5th class soloing 1.Loose dirty 5.10 2.Long hard and grainy 5.11c 3.Short 5.9 4.Grainy and dirty 5.11- C2. 5.Move the belay up to the large ledge 5.8 6.Loose dirty 5.10 7.Wild and strenuous 5.11b 8.Long and dirty 5.10 C2 Then 1,800 ft. of 4th and 5th class. Wayne gave the first ascent V+/VI. I didn't want to downgrade it too much. I'd say though that we sent in IV+ time.

Trip: Dragontail - Dragons of Eden V 5.11+ A2 Date: 7/9/2008 Trip Report: Jens Holsten and I repeated Dragons of Eden on Dragontail on July 9th. We left the car at 4:20 and returned 20 hours later. The route is one of a kind. First ascentionest Wayne Wallace wasn't exagerrating when he said the headwall contained "el cap type illness." The only thing we could compare it to was the headwall of the Salathe. The climbing was splitter, steep, stout, and DIRTY! Hats off to Wallace and McGowan for their impressive 1989 first ascent. We threw down and free'd as much as we could given the dirty and lichenous conditions. The route is easy to find and begins with a loose and dirty 5.10 hand crack. Looking down from P1: When i read in the topo, "Butterballs to the Gripper," i thought, yeah right. But it's true. Sharp steep fingers, lead to pumpy thin hands and a perfect hands gripper finale. The fingers were grainy with a full-on layer of kitty litter in all directions. Jens took a couple times on lead, and i was just barely able to climb it clean on second. Cleaned up it would be one of the best pitches anywhere, 11c all day: This is a perfect route to haul a bag up: The crux pitch. Great 5.10 climbing leads to the top of the pillar, dirty insecure face climbing leads to thin fingers in a corner. This pitch was super dirty, even on second you couldn't free more than 2 or 3 moves without falling after your smears crumbled away. It will be sick when cleaned and free'd. Dirty, loose, and somewhat scary 5.10 climbing began The Great White Headwall: The second headwall pitch is tied with the butterballs pitch for best pitch on the route. Ridiculously exposed and overhanging crack climbing out both roofs. Jens had an impressive onsight of this one, and i followed clean too. The trail line says it all, 15+ ft out: The 11c/d last pitch was the dirtiest of the route and was so sketchy in its current state that is was climbed mostly on aid by us both. It must be a awesome finish when clean, topping out on a perfect ledge, just like long ledge on el cap. Jens on the headwall: Topping out: The NE buttress was scenic, dirty, and neverending. Two long simulblocks lead us to the finishing notch, and two raps got us down to aasgard. Overall, a great day out, and an awesome first climb with Jens. When cleaned and freed it will be an ultra-classic freeclimbing testpiece for the area. Gear Notes: We bought a triple set of cams and set and a half of nuts, and it wasn't enough! Bring: set of hybrids, double set from blue to red alien, 3-4 .5 camalots, 3-4 .75's, 3-4 #1's, 3 #2's, 2-3 #3's, and a single #4. Two ropes. Approach Notes: Topo is perfect, CLICK . We skipped the contrived first 3 pitches and used the jingus approach ledges. Route is easy to find.

looking over from gato negro I had a hard time imagining anything "stellar" coming from that part of the wall. nonetheless, it looks like a good adventure, thanks for the beta.