Sol

Thx buddy, it's a GIRL! Maybe I'll do a FA and name it after her

Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I hiked to the summit and had a picnic. We soaked in the incredible views, made some new friends topping out on Angel Crack, and sat there day-dreaming about our bun in the oven. Just never gets old heading up to castle, even if you don't climb an inch.

Been some fresh snow in them hills this week, but you never know, could be just fine.

though I did learn how to frig them in with one hand, they are a bitch to place and clean. ok for easy climbs only, but not really worth the hassle. can be a clutch clean aid piece in places like zion (start of p5 on Lunar X).

Prusik S Face Acid Baby

I use a double shoulder length on about 90% of the multipitch routes I go on including alpine. The other 10% being alpine where I anticipate slinging of blocks (chossier gneiss in the N cascades vs granite).

http://cascadeclimbers.com/blog/2012/02/23/forget-that-bulk-webbing-by-blake-herrington/

I second Kurt's recommendation. I see this as an oppurtunity to refurbish the entire route (scrub, rebolt, update topo). I am happy to help but an upcoming graduation, pregnant wife, and new job leaves me with little freetime. Nonetheless, Montypiton shoot me a pm when you head out there if you need a hand and i'll see what I can do.

awesome

La Sportiva RT bindings are 1/2 the weight of traditional dynafits.

Great story Bob!

I highly recommend John and Olivia at Northwest Mountain School. Besides being one of the best guide outfits around they are also very tuned-in to getting new leaders ready for their first leads. I have seen a scenario where they had a client mock-leading on top rope while a guide jugged next to them evaluating their placements, gear-placing stances, pros and cons of climbing techniques, etc. Seems like a great approach and you wont find a more friendly and encouraging guide service.

Getting psyched for the slideshow tonight! Routes I will discuss: East Face of Main Gunsight Megalodon Ridge on Mt. Goode Tempest Wall on CBR FFA of Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Pk Gorillas in the Mist/Direct on Mt Stuart El Capitan on the Big Kangaroo Free food, free non-alcoholic beverages, free gear, and lots of good company, come on down. BYOB to be consumed responsibly by those of age.

Great TR!

Dtail could be a go.. For sure s face of prusik is a go as is acid baby (both south facing). FWIW some friends attempted n ridge of stuart today and approached in rain the majority of the way (40-50% chance) and bailed.. My itinerary would be acid baby day one with a bivy on the plateau then s face prusik day two, hike snow creek out for a two day loop of the range. damn good trip, but it sounds like your interested in c2c. but for sure you could get up the ridge routes on dtail with a bit of grit and some possible moistness (in the ca rockies it would be perfecto conditions all day..). if you end up cragging in ltown give me a holler. hoping to get into the range on thurs.

Go Shaun!! Getting some!

How hard?

I am pretty bummed to hear about this. The only other time I saw spray paint in the mtns was at the base of the Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan. Though the spraypainted arrow turned us around and helped get us back en route in the darkness of the early morning, it really bothered me. I thought about it most of the day and wondered who would have the audacity to desecrate such a sacred mtn. What's done is done, time will wash away this travesty (I hope!). Folks, don't ever spraypaint in the hills, be minimal with your cairning, and only flag if it is absolutely necessary (never felt the need to do this, but I have followed some crucially flagged trails..). If you have a fire in the hills (where its allowed) keep it small, do it on top of a flat rock and flip the rock over when done, camp on hard surfaces or use what's already there, boulderers: scrub off your tick marks(!!!), take the time to avoid shortcuts on switchbacks and trails, if you comfortize a bivy uncomfortize it when your done, leave no trace my friends, these hills are precious, treat them as such.

They've already gated the icicle, filled to capacity..

Sick, sick, sick, sick, sick, sick, sick!

Thx Shaun. As requested, the high resolution scan: Der Topo (click topo on link to maximize) from Max Hasson's Blog.

Right on you guys, looks like a blast!

Condolences to you and your family. I heard nothing but good things about David, so sorry for your loss.

Sounds like a sick trip, psyched to see your TR.