Sol

BUMP

lack of crampons saw me and a partner belaying 15-20 degree bulletproof morning snow between stuart and goat passes recently. in the end, the time spent dealing with our "too light" approach cost us our objective.

Does anybody have any recent info on snow patches encountered on the Southern Picket Range Traverse (say from the last two weeks)? I'm looking mostly for info on snow on the actual ridge itself. Anyone been on Terror, the mcmillans, or inspiration?? Thanks in advance.

I've always been pretty fascinated by why I get cramps in my forearms some days and not others. I think fluid/electrolyte imbalance plays a role, but more importantly any muscle imbalances that you may have (which climbers are well known for) are the main culprit. Since I began once a week gymnastic ring workouts to balance out the climbing muscles in my body, i've overall been able to keep cramps from occuring or only rarely on my most dehydrated and taxing outings. But, F/E always seem to be the factor that triggers the cramps. I think it's important to realize that there are more than one type of way to become dehydrated: isotonic (loss of F and E in the same quanity), hyptotonic (loss of E in greater proportion than fluid/excess consumption of water), or hypertonic (too many electrolytes, not enough water). I swear i've had cramping episodes from all 3 conditions before. With F/E, I think the key is to consume lots of water per climbing day 3-8 Liters (usually 4-5), but also every 3rd liter or so do some electrolytes. Also, as John says, diet plays a role as well. I try to eat a good breakfast with real food in it pre-climb (whole wheat burrito with veggies, eggs, and maybe a lean meat), bars, gu's, shot-blocks, electros thru-out the day, but also for the end of the approach and early part of the climb eat a sandwich with whole grain bread, lean meat, and veggies ( a bit of lettuce, onion, red/green pepper, no cheese). You need the micronutrients, that only real food offers, to facilitate the small cellular exchanges that are keeping you going on a long day in the hills. Hope that helps, good luck.

Nice one Mikey and Rachel!

That new nut is on route. Blake and Pete H established a 4 pitch rap route from the top of the knife-edge to the base. I'll agree with Layton that the ropeless scramble to the top is idyllic and finishes up the route nicely for me. Also, it's easy to wander over and summit enchantment pk when you walk off.

I just talked to another party who missed the summit ridge. They claimed to have been led astray by beta in Kramar's new Ltown guide... So, for P6 in the Leavenworth Rock Guide, don't "Start up the corner, " instead "Move up the arete on knobs...".

acid baby

One rule for the Serpentine, NEVER leave the arete! Nice Job! Looks like a great time to summit.

Blog

always upwards

I'm in!! Thx for sharing.

I dont know your skill level comin from Ohio, but that NW Buttress descent is pretty full value. FWIW. If you do decide to descend via NW Butt or Sherpa glacier (North Side) then it's of little value and a lot more work to move your bivy up to the Goat Pass area from the lower basin.

Not too far...

Nice job you guys! Ivan, i'm psyched you finally got-er-done on the Captain, well-deserved!

I enjoyed the NE buttress climb then Storm King col circumnavigation descent. It felt very alpine and quite committing on that rap over the col.

YES! Not to be missed, the highest point in North Cascades National Park.

right on, thx for the info.

did you guys try the variation start on the right side of the face?

You PDXers are so dysfunctional.

Thanks Pup!

Hi all, Looking for a partner for Deep Creek near Spokane tomorrow Wednesday July 20th. I'm free til about noon so the earlier the better (7ish...). I've got draws and a rope, looking to get on 11's and 12's. Send me a PM and lets go get pumped!! Sol Wertkin Leavenworth, WA

Very psyched to see pics from that neck of the woods. Looks like a very scenic trip, nice job!!