Sol

just move the cams out of the way

really?

Didn't Burdo use some different belays for the FFA? Any chance you can add some free-climbing info to your topo?

gumby bail

Well done team! Great write up Mark, psyched to try and free climb this route some time. FWIW: Passenger route has gotten a consensus rating of 11c (and it's really only 3 hard moves, just throwing this out there so folks dont get intimidated by a 12a rating on this stellar line). Great job!

the agreement with the landowners whom property the approach trail crosses is that nothing is to be posted on the internet about nason... kinda goofy but whatever. it's been fun exploring the routes and gaining a consensus on grades over the years. if i see you up there, i'd be happy to show you around. just follow the bolts to the anchors

the Camp Photon lockers are the lightest and sexiest i've ever used: http://www.camp-usa.com/products/carabiners/photon-screw-192003.asp

yo dan, if you can make it to index blake and i can give you a ride back to ltown. we'll be at index around 8 and heading to ltown around 3. welcome home brother.

Well done gentlemen!

I call it a 10c. Nice job!

i would not recommend the east ledges descent when the west ridge couloir is still a go. loose, dirty, and generally unpleasant IMO.

Sweet! Glad to see this climbed by someone i'm not friends with. One day this route will get the traffic it deserves as a mega-classic. Just wait til you try the direct finish! Still waiting for the one day ascent to the summit....

Condolences to the family and friends of the fallen climber. Incredibly sad news. I spent saturday on the west face of CBR with Shaun (Verticolorful), the route was quite wet, and it rained intermittently throughout the day. I imagine conditions on D-tail were even worse. It's not hard to imagine a fatal slip on wet rock that day. I'm so sorry for those affected by this painful loss.

Raindawg, whats your real name?

Those knobs look SICK!! Nice job fellas! Race everyone else for the 2nd Ascent. Ready, set, GO!

Moos is the man (or woman)! Buy this fine citizen a beer.

doesn't that last rap on heavens gate require a 70?

i hope you guys got renters insurance... $125/yr..

Neutrinos will work too. 11- funky face climbing. Really, it's not the greatest free route. Seems funner when you can just yard past the funk and enjoy the exposure vs climb back and forth all over the face using weird holds to make it go free.. Besides the striking line and great position, i've never been too thrilled with the DEB. For folks looking for free routes near that grade, at the pass, i'd recommend the Hitchhiker on SEWS, Boving Route on SEWS, and the West Face of NEWS over the DEB.

The first pitch is more like 10+ (first 11- I ever onsighted). Slick corner to start, then a couple of creaky pins near the crux, but not that bad. Yes, getting to and pass the rotten block free is FUNKY! Might have to spend a bit of time working those sequences, being open minded in climbing left or right of where the fixed pins are, but it goes.

I think a new #5 would work fine and be ideal. either way i have a new #5 or #6 you could borrow, I'm in leavenworth. shoot me a PM if your interested and we can chat.

the free line climbs pretty funky. if freeing the bolt ladder you end up climbing somewhat right of the bolt ladder for that pitch. you can't really free it and clip every bolt. but you can clip plenty if freeing it, most of them the newer ones. I dont really see too much that needs to change on the route as of bout 4 years ago. seems like the guys that replaced half of them, replaced the ones that matter and also upgraded anchors. replaced bolts seemed fine, but i dunno. tooth and claw is one that really needs new hardware, quite dangerous as is. many of the 1/4ers have a rounded crater/taper around the bolt hole from being french freed and loose for so many years. and the belays are atrocious: most being dead trees/roots.