Sol

Condolences to the family and friends of the fallen climber. Incredibly sad news. I spent saturday on the west face of CBR with Shaun (Verticolorful), the route was quite wet, and it rained intermittently throughout the day. I imagine conditions on D-tail were even worse. It's not hard to imagine a fatal slip on wet rock that day. I'm so sorry for those affected by this painful loss.

Raindawg, whats your real name?

Those knobs look SICK!! Nice job fellas! Race everyone else for the 2nd Ascent. Ready, set, GO!

Moos is the man (or woman)! Buy this fine citizen a beer.

doesn't that last rap on heavens gate require a 70?

i hope you guys got renters insurance... $125/yr..

Neutrinos will work too. 11- funky face climbing. Really, it's not the greatest free route. Seems funner when you can just yard past the funk and enjoy the exposure vs climb back and forth all over the face using weird holds to make it go free.. Besides the striking line and great position, i've never been too thrilled with the DEB. For folks looking for free routes near that grade, at the pass, i'd recommend the Hitchhiker on SEWS, Boving Route on SEWS, and the West Face of NEWS over the DEB.

The first pitch is more like 10+ (first 11- I ever onsighted). Slick corner to start, then a couple of creaky pins near the crux, but not that bad. Yes, getting to and pass the rotten block free is FUNKY! Might have to spend a bit of time working those sequences, being open minded in climbing left or right of where the fixed pins are, but it goes.

I think a new #5 would work fine and be ideal. either way i have a new #5 or #6 you could borrow, I'm in leavenworth. shoot me a PM if your interested and we can chat.

the free line climbs pretty funky. if freeing the bolt ladder you end up climbing somewhat right of the bolt ladder for that pitch. you can't really free it and clip every bolt. but you can clip plenty if freeing it, most of them the newer ones. I dont really see too much that needs to change on the route as of bout 4 years ago. seems like the guys that replaced half of them, replaced the ones that matter and also upgraded anchors. replaced bolts seemed fine, but i dunno. tooth and claw is one that really needs new hardware, quite dangerous as is. many of the 1/4ers have a rounded crater/taper around the bolt hole from being french freed and loose for so many years. and the belays are atrocious: most being dead trees/roots.

Thx buddy, it's a GIRL! Maybe I'll do a FA and name it after her

Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I hiked to the summit and had a picnic. We soaked in the incredible views, made some new friends topping out on Angel Crack, and sat there day-dreaming about our bun in the oven. Just never gets old heading up to castle, even if you don't climb an inch.

Been some fresh snow in them hills this week, but you never know, could be just fine.

though I did learn how to frig them in with one hand, they are a bitch to place and clean. ok for easy climbs only, but not really worth the hassle. can be a clutch clean aid piece in places like zion (start of p5 on Lunar X).

Prusik S Face Acid Baby

I use a double shoulder length on about 90% of the multipitch routes I go on including alpine. The other 10% being alpine where I anticipate slinging of blocks (chossier gneiss in the N cascades vs granite).

http://cascadeclimbers.com/blog/2012/02/23/forget-that-bulk-webbing-by-blake-herrington/

I second Kurt's recommendation. I see this as an oppurtunity to refurbish the entire route (scrub, rebolt, update topo). I am happy to help but an upcoming graduation, pregnant wife, and new job leaves me with little freetime. Nonetheless, Montypiton shoot me a pm when you head out there if you need a hand and i'll see what I can do.

awesome

La Sportiva RT bindings are 1/2 the weight of traditional dynafits.

Great story Bob!

I highly recommend John and Olivia at Northwest Mountain School. Besides being one of the best guide outfits around they are also very tuned-in to getting new leaders ready for their first leads. I have seen a scenario where they had a client mock-leading on top rope while a guide jugged next to them evaluating their placements, gear-placing stances, pros and cons of climbing techniques, etc. Seems like a great approach and you wont find a more friendly and encouraging guide service.

Getting psyched for the slideshow tonight! Routes I will discuss: East Face of Main Gunsight Megalodon Ridge on Mt. Goode Tempest Wall on CBR FFA of Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Pk Gorillas in the Mist/Direct on Mt Stuart El Capitan on the Big Kangaroo Free food, free non-alcoholic beverages, free gear, and lots of good company, come on down. BYOB to be consumed responsibly by those of age.