Sol

Here's a video of a pretty ripping rider from the Selkirks who is rocking a hardboot set-up. Dynafit TLT 5's and voile hard plates I believe. If you gotta ride a board but your main objective is travel, it seems to be the best set-up so far... FWIW, I rock a burton s 168 with Spark's and it's garbage.

I've been snowbarding for 25 years, splitboarding for 10, and skiing for 2. I love snowboarding. I ride my board when it's deep in bounds, when conditons are gnarly, and when I'm going to tag a hard objective/couloir in the backcountry (i.e. black hole couloir on bandit). Otherwise I ski. It's lighter, faster, more solid on the up, and much more efficient/free on the down. With your primary intention being to travel to and fro climbing objectives, a splitboard is just not the way to go. I started skiing so that I could tick off some classic traverses that I wouldnt touch on my board and cuz frankly unless it's a challenging objective ive been riding so long it gets kinda boring.. Like Kurt said, i do think some changes will happen soon with the currently absolutely archaic design of snowboard boots, it's funny that 20 years ago koflach and such made some pretty damn awesome (though very heavy) backcountry snowboard boots which were waterproof and step in crampon compatible, but since then nada. I'm hoping La sportiva will step up with a plastic lower, leather upper style. There is room for lots of innovation as far as splitboarding boots and bindings go. Best soft boot splitboard binding on the market: Karakoram, hands down, $$$. Best board: ???, i'm thinkin prior, but there are lots of companies out there making some very nice boards. My suggestion: again, skis.

Skis

1. Finally, after 6 tries, free-climbed Dragons of Eden on D-tail leading all cruxes with Adam Lawson. 2. Snowboard descent of the Black Hole Couloir on Bandit Pk. with Joey T. 3. Flash of the Supercave on the M&M Wall with Jon Pobst and Blake Herrington. 4. Let it Burn on CBR with Adam Lawson. 5. Snowboard descent of "Steep Creek" Couloir on Rock Mtn with Aaron Scot and Nathan B.

I'll give you $25 for the blue alien

Here's some old shots of Jens Holsten and myself of the FFA of Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Pk. They were taken by my wife and her friend Keri from atop the cliff band that is halfway up Aasgard Pass. Jens leading P1 5.9+ Pitch 2, Butterballs to The Gripper, 5.11b/c The crucial stem-rest At the belay Max and Ryan climbed the NE Buttress to the top of "The Great White Headwall" so that Max could rap in and shoot some photos. Here's the fellas starting out for the day. Max Hasson bravely rapping off the top of the Headwall On assignment capturing some sports action, Jens sending the crux, P3, 5.12a The goods, Sick shots Max! Myself leading P6, 5.11a Jens sending the Headwall, P7, 5.11c/d

I agree wholeheartedly. The KEY to a successful training program is to remain injury free. Often, high-intensity training is riding that fine line between hard training and injury, but it is a very fine line and one must build up their tendon strength over many years to do the exercises at the intensity that we are detailing here.

My El Cap Rule: Dbl the water, 1/2 the food.

A note on durability: my cilo 30L standard has seen 250+ days, i've done some minor repairs to the bottom but that's cuz I stick my whippit inside the pack when descendng on my splitboard.

Strength to body weight ratio is the key.

Part 0 Part 1 Part 2 I'll do a 3-4 week hangboard phase and then a 2-3 week bouldering/campusing phase. Then 2 weeks of power endurance and i'll start over. I try not to get too sidetracked performing at the crags boulders inbetween peaks but I do what I have to do to stay psyched. My hangboard routinue involves 7 grips in this order: Small Campus Rung Open Handed Crimp, Wide Pinch, Sloper, Index/Middle 2-Finger Pocket, Small Slopey Crimp, Middle/Ring, Ring Pinky. I do 1-2 sets of each for 10-14 sets total. First set 7 sec on 3 sec off x6, Second rep 6 sec on 4 sec off x6. Rest 2-3 minutes in between sets and 3 minutes in between grips. I'd be game for 3 sets of each but often i'm squeezing these workouts in-between daddy duties and heading off to the night shift so I do what I can with the time i have aiming for at least 10 sets. 3rd set would be 5 sec on 5 sec off. The key to these workouts is consistency and continually pushing your fingers each workout. Success is failing at 5 seconds on he 6th rep. Also key is a simple pulley system to take off weight. I take off 40-50 lbs for my ring/pinky 2 finger pocket grip (though not for long, going for -35 today).

Don' fall on snow anchors!

Nice job Danny and partner. Every climber should climb the nose once in their life. We did it in two bivies, but we fixed and pre-hauled to Sickle on Day 1. I'll never forget topping out the Captain at sunset.. Great TR!

Badass, I gotta go back to Zion soon!

11c all day

What time of year and what kind of load were you packing? September, Heavy

I took about a 15 footer off the crux of Edge of Space in the rain. I went flying towards the edge sure that I was going to fly over it and the rope was going to cut on the edge and I would fall 300 ft to the base. I screamed like a girl. I was fine, totally safe falls on EoS. Lots of folks could get up this one no problem.

Oh Yeah! SOLID WORK HOMIE. Edge of Space is one of the best routes in Ltown. Yes, it's scary, yes it's safe. Clean enough, it saw at least 3 ascents this year. Wait for cold, dry conditions (I climbed the crux pitch in the rain, oh god).

Nobody is going to post their list of sacred climbs that stay dry in the rain. Go seek them out.

Tragic

Get some! Very cool winter project.

Sounds like a good adventure! Though mildly epic, that bivy looks sweet. TICK!

Action on the M&M Wall! Thanks for the clarification Hanman and well done going ground-up! Who's gonna get after it???

Found a little write up on mountainproject about the direct start: LINK It seems a little strange that they spent so many bolts on a slabby direct start when you could just go for a new line on the face. But, it seems likely that it was bolted on rappel.. Psyched to get on the direct start next June and link it into the unclimbed direct finish. Those with some October free time should go give this beauty a whirl..

Lots of good pro on RC, you gotta run it out a bit at the top but that's after all the difficulties. You should take your cragging skills to the hills and go get on Der Sportsmen..