Sol

Cilogear I own a 20, 30, 45, and 60. I used the 30L for 8 days in the Pickets, best pack in our team of 3 hands down.

Strong work John!! Proud send homie! What's next? Rainbow Connection? We should work Shriek of the Mutilated..

G-Spotter, I think that's the whole point of Blake's thread. In Squamish the local crushers are venturing into the hills and putting up sick new alpine lines, and repeating the hard lines that are already up. In WA state, there's chalk all over the test pieces at Index, but phenomenal free climbs like Thin Red Line and Let it Burn get climbed only by a handful of folks. I would indeed agree that the alpine rock scene and the cragging scene are quite disconnected. Why that is, i'm not so sure.

That looks awesome! Thanks for posting.

I hadn't been to Index for a couple months til monday and I was impressed with how many climbs were chalked up. Same thing happens in Ltown on the boulders (but usually the stripes are much more ridiculous, i.e. foot long stripes). We just scrub em off when we see em and if we see a party tick up a climb and then start to leave without cleaning their ticks we just do a friendly reminder/educate them on good tick mark etiquette.

Inspiring climb! Thanks for the TR.

5.8 A4 = HARDMEN

SUPERCAVE Blogpost

Trip: M&M Wall - The SUPERCAVE (Ellen Pea) Date: 9/24/2012 Trip Report: Jon Pobst, Blake Herrington and I had a wonderful day out climbing the SUPERCAVE route. This is a phenomenal line and should be on the hit list for WA Pass enthusiasts. It is an ideal early and late season wall with lots of sun, weather protection, a short approach, and anchors to bail on at most any point. Full write up on my blog. Gear Notes: Single purple tcu. Dbl from green alien sized to #2 single #3, single set of nuts. Slings and a few draws. Dbl 70 m ropes to rap. Approach Notes: Running water at the chockstone. Fixed hand line to the climbers right of the chockstone (recommended over the bolted rap on the way down).

Blake, Jon Pobst, and myself went up and climbed the route to the summit on Monday. Awesome route, great find! The rock quality for the majority of the route is spectacular. We figured it was you guys putting in the bolted intro pitch... geuss not. Seems pretty contrived... but oh well it is quite a clean slab. Anybody else ever top this route out (hard to imagine this was the 2nd ascent..)?

La Nada

Nice TR Mark!

Thought i'd mix it up a bit from the stuart threads and ask if anybody's been up to the pass in the last day or so. How was the smoke?

it's rugged over here

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - Let it Burn Date: 9/1/2012 Trip Report: Adam Lawson and myself had a blast on the neo-classic Let it Burn up on CBR a few weeks back. More info on my blog: Let it Burn Gear Notes: Dbl rack purple tcu to #1, single #2 and #3. Single set of nuts.

I'm gonna add my 2cents in as well: EDK all day. Do a test pull, always. Ridonkulous to only bring 1 headlamp for 3 dudes. Often on broken terrain it is much easier to do short single rope raps, passing a station at 25M should have been at least a signal. The first rapper should have finished the dbl rope rap, tried to pull the ropes which wouldn't budge. Yelled up to the team that they were going to stay at the farther station and that the other two should try two single rope raps and see if the ropes pull then. Extend anchors with shoulder length slings if needed. Do more research, beta out there about this exact same situation. Don't set your SPOT off because you're scared to spend a cold night in the hills, shivering from your inexperience. SPOT's are for accidents, not mistakes. I'm sure in retrospect you've thought of all of this.. Nonetheless, nice effort and good work making it down Prusik and out of the hills.

u should post up those pics

That beast looks STOUT and SPICY. Nice work boys!

Trip: Mt. Stuart - West Face Wall - Gorillas in the Blizzard Date: 9/10/2012 Trip Report: I had a super fun (i.e. memorable) birthday climb of GITM a week or so ago. My Blog Gear Notes: Dbl rack to 2 inches, single 3, single set of nuts. Approach Notes: Cold and windy

I think to really answer your question you have to be more specific with what type of climbing your training for and specific goals for each training cycle. "Strength" on a 100 ft crux pitch or strength throughout a 2000ft mixed route. "Endurance" on a 150 ft finger-crack, or endurance on a 26 hr push? I totally agree that Twight's book is awesome (have read it proably 4 times cover to cover in the last 10 years and just loaned it out) and that Gym Jones, Mountain Athlete are premier venues for alpine climbing training/programming. BUT, if we are talking "hard" (defined different for each person) rock climbing, there are much more valuable resources out there and there is a clear distinction in training for the two mediums. I think Rob at Mtn Athlete and Twight at Gym Jones would proabaly agree that training for rock climbing is not their specialty (though it seems like both gyms do do a good job at preparing the alpine climber for the "hard" rock part of their programming, it's not rocket science). Personally, I have to dibble and dabble in each training element at different times of the year. Defined, my specific goal for training is to climb traditional 5.12 rock climbs in the mtns. So, overall I have to train alot for hard rock climbing and a bit for alpine endurance (this changes throuout the year). If i train the enduro alpine game too much I wont send the crux pitches, if i train the hard rock without training the enduro apline side then i'll be too fatigued from the approach to the climb and the approach pitches to send all the crux's (thought on certain climbs I can fudge through with minimal enduro alpine training: E Face of Lib Bell, easy approaches in the Enchantments..) I am definetly not trying to start the classic debate on what training is best, but, if you want to climb hard rock, then Extreme Apinism is not the best resource. Some links to blogs that can help you improve on the rock: Dave McLeod Dave's Climbing Coaching Blog Mark Anderson's Training Blog Eva Lopez Stevie Haston Training Power Climbing Company Blog (Kris Hampton) Alli Rainey Ryan Palo Robot Climbing Books: 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes by Dave McLeod The Rock Warrior's Way by Arno Illgner Performance Rock by Dale Goddard Udo Neumann Mike Anderson's Rock Prodigy Articles

How early? I may be able to give you a shuttle.. shoot me a PM.

oh wow, that looks fun! nice work gentlemen.

it's pretty bad. I could not see wedge mtn from near downtown in the early evening. reports of folks not climbing bcuz the smoke was so bad. nonetheless, it wont stop me from getting out in the am.

That's what Jimbo wrote but I can't remember using it anywhere except the offwidth pitch.