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Dane

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Everything posted by Dane

  1. sold
  2. sold
  3. Ya, that was done when Easter Overhang was still 5.9 But you do need to stem a bit.
  4. May is really pushing it on the west siide approach if you really want to climb anything but the standard route on the West Face. You won't make it all the way up the road (no big deal the last mile or so stays drifted in at the last shaded corners) and there will be snow from there up in the trees. Takes a bit for the rock and lichen to dry out to offer the best climbing. The majority of good trips I have done into Chimney started in the first and second week of June. The last weeks of May and first week of June still offers lots of snow and a slightly longer walk in. Weather changes will typically mean new snow through mid June. I would try the east side approach as it is easier on cars. Just a bit worse on the legs. I suspect that would be a better early season approach
  5. I might suggest if you are going to compare grades you actually lead the route...on sight would be even more appropriate. That way you won't sound like "a weak ass punter" when you come up with an opinion
  6. Just a quess but you may have popped a tendon off it's track internally. Finger will get sore and inflamed at the join with any use? No use it seems fine? I knew I tweaked my ring finger pulling on a nub when I did it. It hurt... a lot...which is an obvious sign. But I could still climb. Figured taping it to my middle finger would help and it did...just not enough. With no treatment it took me 6 months and a freak twist of my finger to get it back working right. (driving a car of all things) But I knew things were right the minute it popped back in. Finger was never perfect afterwards but a whole lot better than the other way and I could climb again with no pain to speak of. My suggestion is visit a good orthopod if you want to keep climbing into old age The sooner the better. This from a guy who will seldom go to the Doc.
  7. Pretty simple but the best thing I have seen is no matter how ripped you get, is make sure you wash afterwards with hot water and a good soap. If you have or get a bad flapper, benzoin and tape it to give it the time to heal. Really wanting to do some nasty edges and your fingers are trashed, tape your tips. Wash them a often as is possible climbing, first in the morning and last thing at night. Take any tape or bandages off at night. Tape, benzoin, soap and water will get you through several months of hard climbing in the valley. Taping my tips is the only thing that will get me through a couple of weeks at Smith.
  8. I've been into Ptarmigan from Mowich lake and Ipsut and Liberty from St Elmo pass (the carbon is never all that fun) and Mowich. I prefer Mowich if you get to the lake in a car but I also like to go down thorough Muir which is a PIA logistically. Nice traverse though. I think the better way is come in over St Elmo and Curtis at around pt. 7783 (carbon not with standing) and go down through Sherman. If nothing else you don't have to stress about the ride back. I also believe st elmo is shorter than the other two. But you miss the heather parks and have some big holes you'll want to miss. The other though I have had is wait till Mowich is open and then go down close to Sherman and take a hard left and cross back over Curtis and back to Spray Park...that would be an adventure
  9. I'm no hard man but even when I thought i was this list was seemed a good day's workout on tr. I have spent a day just on one of the slabs listed trying to get all of us up just the routes on one anchor. Scratch and W/F have taken the starch out of my shorts leading them and left me on empty for the day. Potholes direct 10c " " direct 10a washbords 10c primate 10d scratch 10c w.f. direct 10a (climb the west face @ 5.8) slender thread...close enough to 10a fakin' it 10a cajun queen 10b That has to be close to 1000 feet slab all told. Funny part is sand stone has nothing to do with granite imo. I remember how confused I was going from WA sandstone to yosemite granite even after leading Timson's. Whole other world out there But I also go back a couple times a year to do the list I posted above. Fun, fun climbs on a tr and even better on lead if you drop scratch and W/F direct.
  10. Matt had started this list.... With little or no effort to hang the rope (2x150 or better) you can do the following at Peshastin: sperm whale 5.11a (although my last choice) Potholes direct 10c " " direct 10a washbords 10c primate 10d Dr leaky 11b (you'll need to climb P&B @ .10a for leaky) scratch 10c White lightening 11a w.f. direct 10a (climb the west face @ 5.8) slender thread...close enough to 10a fakin' it 10a cajun queen 10b On Givler's Timson's @ 10d is worth the walk. Classic has doing the dishes @ .12b weeping wrenches @ 11b secret dome jy crag Depends on where you learned to climb for this one.. Dan's dreadful direct on Castle .11b Enough to keep ya busy for a weekend I suspect.
  11. Yo, dick head....I go to ebay to get responsible buyers instead of whining bitches you always find here on Cascadewhiners. Since I used to climb for a living I thought that if there were any real climbers still on this forum they might appreciate the hook up. The professional courtesy I was offering to anyone here was the ability to buy directly from me @ $200 and I would then cancel the ebay auction. The rest of you can pound sand
  12. How do you guys ever climb anything bitching so much... Please educate me on how posting a climbing jacket, for sale here is spam? Last I checked I was still in the "yard sale". Funny how Jay, John and Mugs and dozens of others are/were able to pack and use a Andinista but the local hard man can't. F.. Wankers. Makes one wonder why anyone bothers to post anything here. Maybe they ought to just take the key boards out of the grade schools.
  13. Unused, yellow shafts, Black Diamond leashes. Knuckle protection removed and the sharp edges buffed on the heads. One axe and one hammer. $200. total...you pay the shipping
  14. XL, $200 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3672067958&category=30107&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSE%3AIT&rd=1
  15. Opening bid for a new XL suit is $250. Or you can buy it directly from me for the same $250 and I'll cancel the auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3672065869&category=30107&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSE%3AIT&rd=1
  16. I wasn't kidding. Always thought there were moves on Classic crack that were harder technically. If I wanted to learn how to climb and lead 5.8 I would be doing laps on Sex Party.
  17. It is not the same pack as the earliest Andinistas. They were Cordura and weighed more. They also made a light weight for a while in the late '80s of pack cloth. This one is kinda the heavier version of that pack is my take on it. My postal scale says 3.5#. Looks like a 6 or 7 oz pack cloth body and some heavy duty material more like a really stiff ballistic nylon on the bottom. I haven't taken a close look at the newest version in person. So I can't make that comparison.
  18. It is a couple of years old. Same features as the newest version if I am correct from the pictures at the Wild Things web site. Bought this one at Marmot for a specific trip and ended up not using it.
  19. Trango Extreme S 46.5 $150 used one ice season/excellent TRANGO ICE 47 $175 used two days, gaitor cut off TRANGO S 46 $150 new Original Trango 47 $150 new Original Trango S 47.5 $150 new Mythos 43 $80 new
  20. And then again, maybe, you just have no clue on how to pack one......
  21. $40....new and un worn.
  22. Really? Ever carried one Daniel? This is my third. The first was bought in the early '80s. For the intended purpose they are one, if not the best, packs available.
  23. The Wild Things Andinista has been the premier alpine mountaineering pack for over 20 years. The combination of lightweight materials and intelligent design has made the Andinista one of the most sought-after packs on the planet. Purple with black trim. New and unused..$250. plus shipping.
  24. I thought and still think Sex Party was 5.8.
  25. I've done the Gerber-Sink at least a dozen times in summer. Very fun climb. Lot of ways to finish it. Just wondered what these guys did. I'm thinking the ramp across the base of the Fin would be pretty fun.
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