Jake_Gano

I have an old Mountain Hardware hooded Compressor jacket (light puffy, L, black well used but functional), and old reverso belay device w/locking biner, and a set of G-12 crampons w/antibots. These crampons are the type with the nylon harness (newmatic I think is what they call it) and have both the normal and asymmetrical bars. I can let it all go for $160 shipped. The jacket and pons both would cost more than that new. Pics on request.

I was surfing the internet while I'm stuck in the flatlands for a week and I found this gem of a climbing video from local AK badass Eddie Phay: It's about 45 minutes long. Skip to about minute 25 to get to the real goods.

You gonna be through Anc before you need it? I have one I'd lone you.

Check out the Olympus XZ-1. I like mine.

I've heard there is decent cragging within an hour or so of Fairbanks in the summer months. I come up there to do the equinox marathon in September... beautiful time of year. It's cold, but go for it! You'll either love it, or you won't, but you won't know until you give it try. A lot of people love Fbx for the community and the awesome summers.

In southcentral there are maritime areas and more continental areas within a hour or so of Anchorage. You can select the location base on temperatures in town. 5+ months of reliable water ice is a little different than in the Pac Northwest.

-40 there now. Dress warm.

The copyright date for Extreme Alpinism is 1999. It wasn't too long after 2001 that I picked up a copy. I was a starry-eyed aspiring mountaineer looking for as much vicarious climbing as I could find living in the midwest. Good reviews of the book didn't hurt. I was expecting another how to book that would reaffirm the qualities of my new spendy goretex coat and remind me how to size my ice ax. Boy was I wrong. I didn't even know the kind of climbing he was talking about existed, but that book was a wakeup call to what else was out there. Even though I'm still far from a supreme alpinist, that book has been the most influential and inspirational I've owned.

On a kinda related note I'm looking for a new ice climbing shell jacket. Things I want include a windproof, light, water resistant shell fabric with some type of microfleece or brushed polyester lining and a good helmet compatible hood. I want it to be cut long enough, so I won't ride up over my harness when I'm climbing. Think like a Arcteryx Squamish with fleece lining - or a Marmot Driclime that is actually cut for climbing. Bonuses would be if it had no pockets (or only one chest pocket) and half zip. I tried the Marmot ROM and really liked the concept but the fit sucked and it seemed on the heavy side. Something like this has to exist, but the selection at the local stores sucks and I don't trust anything sold on line.

Retrobolting sucks... but nothing chaps my ass like the Man telling me what I can or can't do on public property. If this passes I'm doing some fly by night drilling just on the point of the matter.

"Drill baby drill" Sarah = retrobolter!!!

Good write up Dane. Have you actually spent much time on ice with those Omegas? I love their weight and warmth - but my experience is they are a bitch to get laced up tight enough to be secure on steep ground. Some sort of lacing system on the inner boot similar to the old Invernos (or any other double boot) would help that problem.

Very cool and creative photos! I love the Wallowas.

Buy a 70L pack and you'll end up carrying too much shit, all the time.

Just make sure the hood works with your helmet. Must windshirts designed for runners or yuppywear won't work with a helmet. Other than that they are all about the same. I have one from Mammut that I like.

The feedback is a few days late - I already bought the tent. I'll post my thoughts when I have a chance to take it out.

Anybody used one? Looks like a nice tent, and I have the chance to pick one up on the cheap. However, they were only made for a couple of years, which makes me wonder if there is a problem with them (and that's why nobody bought them?) or if it was just to specialized for public consumption.

Jimmmy - PM sent

The bibs are a size large, and I can ship.

Wow

I've acquired plenty of gear over the years that I find I'm not using any more, and some cash would go a long way towards getting me some new toys that I know I will use. Pricing is on a reasonable offer basis. You pay shipping to the lower 48. I will consider trading for Alpinist #0,2,3, or 10. Three Wild Country Zeros (Red, Blue, Yellow) – only placed on lead a handful of times, never fallen on. Every time I play with these I am amazed how many odd pockets I can get a bomber placement in. However, I don't aid climb much, but if you do I am sure you will love these. One Wild Country Technical Friend (#3.5) – Needs new trigger wires. Never fallen on DMM 4CU cam (#4, the same size as a #4 friend or a little bigger than a #3 camalot). Never fallen on. Really light for it's size. 1st generation Reverso OR ABC Stitch Plate w/Omega Pacific locker – I don't need two spare belay devices, so take your pick. Petzl mini-ascender – I bought this a few years ago but I have hardly used it. REI "On-sight II" harness - yeah I know how most people feel about buying used harness, but you would have to use a belt sander to wear through the nylon on this dog. 2 - BD Andriod Leashes – these are the style that bolt right onto newer vipers/cobras. 2 – BD Lockdown Leashes – simple leashes but very good for alpine climbing. Omega Pacific Ice Screws (10 and 17 cm) – both need to be filed. Equipped with “coffee-grinder” style nob. BD Ice Clipper Wild Things Sympatex Bibs – These are a few years old but have only been worn maybe five times. I see BC skiers using similar bibs a lot, but I don't BC ski. These are waterproof/breathable and have full side zips. Purple Climbing Skins – I believe they are “Ascension” - cut for my 175s, but there is a little extra material so they can be adjusted longer. 5mm wide. These work fine but I really don't need two sets of skins seeing how little I ski. Brunton Sherpa Baramoter/altimeter/anemometer (wind speed meter )/thermometer Worked last time I used it. If you make are seriously interested I will buy a new battery and test it out prior to closing any deal. Canon G10/11 2-piece lens adapter and Hoya 58mm CPL polarizing filter 2-liter MSR stainless steel camp pot Books: Washington Ice by Martin/Krawarik Idaho – A Climbing Guide by Tom Lopez A Climbers Guide to North Idaho and the Cabinet Wilderness – Thaddeus Laird Glacier Travel and Crevasses Rescue – 2nd Ed. By Andy Selters Climbing Anchors by John Long Lightweight Alpine Climbing with Peter Croft by Croft/Boga Pacific Northwest Hiking by Judd/Nelson DVD: Neil Gresham's Masterclass Part 2 Email or PM. jakegano at gmail dot com

I have a TNF Fission. Mgear has them on sale now. Listed weight is under 3 lb. It works as well as anything else I've owned.

Story?

Awesome TR John. We'll have to get together next time you're up here.