Jake_Gano

I have both a MH Compress and at WT Belay Parka. They're apples and oranges, totally different pieces in the quiver. I've been out at -25F here and -15F in the Can rockies in the WT belay jacket. I wasn't what I'd call comfortable, but it was as comfortable as those temps can be. So, it'd obviously be way overkill for anything in the Cascades, any time of the year. The MH Compressor is a year-round go-to jacket. I'd use it for most of my day routes in AK, even in the middle of winter. I had a MEC northern lite pullover before I moved up here that came with me for 75% of my time in the cascades or northern Idaho, often time just layered over one or two light base layers sans real shell. Keep it breathable, real breathable, and you'd be surprised how little shell and insulation you really need.

I grew up two hours from the crags in Southern Illinois, but only climbed there for the first time last spring. The weathered sandstone has wild pockets, huecos, etc. Top that off with stone that is super grippy on your feet but easier on your skin than crystalline granite and it was a blast. The lines weren't as aesthetic or long as elsewhere, but the athleticism was that the stone afforded was wild compared to granite. It felt like being in gym outside. So Ill sandstone. I met the climber, Kevin, by showing up at the crags with a harness and shoes and makin friendly. This is Never Pass a Pump (5.10) at Drapers. Good stuff. I wouldn't go there in the summer. February/early March when I was there it hit 80 one day. No joke.

Billy, New Zealand was definately the first place that came to my mind. Granted, I've never been, but if I had that time off in December, that would be the first place I'd go.

I like gortex for cutting the wind. It is better than anything else I have used but I have not used dryclime. Jake, how do driclime and gortex compare for cutting wind? I really do not know. Hey Bug, Can't say I've put them side by side. I tend to think my hardshellf (a Precip) would cut the wind better. I bike in both pretty often. I ditched the big full featured gore-tex years ago. Did you even use those frenys?

See one of these state-side yet?

If it's below zero you can shit-can the goretex for sure. Last winter was my first up here in AK and I learned a lot about keeping it together in the cold. A marmot driclime (or similar) is all the 'shell' you need. Best garmont I've ever purchased. Strech woven tops are great for cool weather rock climbing, but aren't windproof and weight more than a nylon jacket. I love Pata Mixmaster bottoms for the deep cold, despite what I just said about stretch-woven jackets. A neoprene face mask is worth its weight in gold, or at least in face-flesh.

Try alaskamountainforum.com I think there are a few people that post from there. Also, alaskaiceclimbing.com has a few climbs listed on the island.

Horrible. Bad. Did I say sucky? I think the rock is a hodgepodge of andesite and basalt, but I'm no geologist. I did manage to get in there two Octobers ago, after the first couple of freeze/thaw cycles, but before the roads closed, and found a few smears of water ice. I'd have to look on my old maps to remember where it was. Dean Lords has thrown down on some big mountain mixed routes in southern Idaho in similar conditions. I also tried to get in there four or so winters back, hoping to get in the FWA of the full seven devil traverse. Long slogging and cold temps sent us home with our tales between our legs. The east (?) face of the tower of babel is steep and fairly sustained. He devil and she devil have big faces. All are unclimbed, as far as I know. I've known a few people that have done a full traverse of the range in the summer. Supposed to be a really good scramble. Expect one bivy. I can look in the lopez Idaho guide if you're interested. There is a Limestone sport climbing cave on the road up that I've heard is wicked hard. Also, the amount of granite upstream from Riggins on the Salmon River is supposed similar to the Icicle near Leavenworth, but the rock is significatnly less featured, or so the story goes. Good luck.

Has anyone tried fitting the BD Venoms with grivel slider leashless extensions?

I think the train runs from the airport to Talkeetna. Might be a bit pricey, and full of granny tourists.

Wrecked three of 'em this winter. Folded the teeth in. The first was my fault. I bottomed it out on some rock on ice that wasn't as thick as I thought. The second I was just trying to place in rock hard ice. That was in the middle of a long cold snap in January. I think it was -15f. The last was on a day of casual climbing last month. I was placing it in deep, wet late season ice. Maybe there was denser ice below the surface. It was about 35F. These were each 1-2 season old. I was using them side-by-side with Grivel and BD screws that had no problems. Anyone had the same 'luck'?

The Freneys are a great boot. I've never been able to get a good fit in Sportivas, but Scarpas seem made-to-fit for me. Also I have an allergy to a chemical used to dye leather, so the Freney was a natural choice. I doubt they are as stiff as EVOs (I assume you are talking about the Nepal EVO?), because the all synthetic material flexes more than natural leather. That means they hike more naturally than most similar boots on the market (I use mine for summer mountaineering). How stiff of a boot you use for ice climbing is a personal preference - Gadd goes into this in some detail in his book, I believe - but I've used the Freneys plenty of times ice climbing. I use my plastics (Omegas) over the Freneys at times, but the extra stiffness plastics offer is a compensation for my sloppy footwork, and not a reflection on any shortcoming of the Freneys. I've also spent 10 hour days out where it never got above -15F in the Freneys and a single warm sock with no complaints. Just throw a set of chemical packs in, and you're good to go. Even without the chemical packets, I've spent long days at -10F in these boots without complaints. Maybe I have warm feet, but most people who are quick to point fingers at their boots when they get cold feet are just vicitims of their own lack of vigilance - not keeping socks dry, letting snow get in the boot, etc.

I managed to hook up with some good folks today just by hanging around the crag and making conversation. Joseph, I think your name is mentioned in the giant city SP part of the older Ulner guidebook. Been around the block, eh?

Oh yeah and I brought a rope and rack. I think I even brought a spare harness. I don't really care how experienced you are, I just want to have some fun.

This may be a long shot but... I'm in Southern Illinois for the next month. I want to go out and hit up the awesome cragging down there, but haven't had much luck finding partners. Tried RC.com already. Does anyone live down there or know anyone that does? I'd like to sneak out after work a few days a week once the days get longer. Jake

I'm going to be in Seattle and I'll have Sunday and Monday free. I was thinking Shuksan sounds fun but I'd be up for ice climbing or about anything. PM me asap.

I am going to be in the Seattle area this weekend. I have Sunday and Mondy til 7 or so free. Would Shuskan interest you? Or anything else? PM me ASAP

I buy one. What's the story with AK mt forum?

Well, I guessed that much. Mountain? Drainage?

Where?

http://www.iceclimb.com/ID.html I think most of the climbs in the above link are within a couple of hours of Boise.

Oh, and more importantly... Many moons ago was I climbing (here in AK, actually) with a blonde girl named Stephanie from the Chicago - north shore area. She was sixteen and exceptionally cute at the time, which if I do the math right puts her about twenty-three and smoking hot by now. Keep your eyes peeled.

Governor Dogde SP in Wisconson has a few flows that form up. Also Starved Rock SP has a few. I don't know any details. Check out ClimbinCentral.com for beta, partners, etc. Also, southern Illinois and Devil's Lake in Wisconson each have good rock climbing. As an Illinois expatriate, I found the best way to get better at ice climbing was to move to Alaska.

PM me. Do you live in anchorage?

I had the chance to use DMM Rebels this Saturday. They were seriously nice tool, and light compared to the old-style Cobras I was swinging. The swing was rigid and damp, and the grip felt positive. The sticks were easy and solid. The pick's geometry was similar to a quarks; you could hook all day with them no problem. I would consider them if I was in the market for a new tool. My only concern would be the lack of availability of replacement picks. Compared to Petzl, Grivel, and especially BD, DMM picks are less well-stocked in your run-of-the-mill climbing shop.