Billygoat

I figure my eternity will be a descent through old growth slide alder and devils club on a 35 degree slope during a perpetually moonless night wearing shorts, a tee shirt and no headlamp while carrying a 70 pound pack without a hip belt. It will be raining and 37 degrees F. I won't ever get to the car for Larry the Tool to write me a ticket, though somewhere ahead of me will be the sound of a creek I will forever try to get to to slake my wicked thirst. Behind me will be a whiny bitch partner falsely harping on me for being too slow on route as the cause of our demise. That would definately be hell Hey Cranked, I'm not making fun of anybody, I'm serious

The end of what?

All the fossil, and geological "record" are just evidence of Satan blinding you all to the glory of God's Kingdom. You all should repent or be prepared to abseil into Hell where Larry the Tool will repeatedly write you tickets...

He used to go out drinkin', looking for a fight But now he's got to see that sweet woman every night Big Bad Bill is Sweet William Nooowww

Bolt Gun

Hey Jon, does this mean I can sell here...?

Now that is Delux!

Yeah. I think it's the margherita she left on the kitchen table...

Cheers Bob

The pain is mainly in the joints of my big toe. However, my left heel sometimes feels sore and I can find no position of comfort.

What are the symptoms? I'm afraid I am developing this.

Don't pack it too high. It gets unwieldly.

ya know, if all you bring are Tri-Cams, you certainly use them a lot more... That said, I love me pinky and red. So much so I doubled up.

Climbed around Shuksan projecting a traverse I want to do. Beuoootiful up there this w/e

A complete set of Tri-Cams. Double up on the red and pinkie....Maybe a set of nuts first... (I'm being a bit silly on the Tri-Cams, I just wanted to get the "goat" of a certain person we were climbing with last weekend)

Read the whole thing Dru...That is why he used two. I don't know man. The guy's record speaks for itself! Maybe he never had a fall. It was a crevasse on his way down from K2 that got him. It was a good enough system for him to use on K2 for chrissakes...

Double Bubble Post

Renato Casarotto put up lots of new grade VI 5.9 routes around the world by himself using two prussics. Pretty low tech and maybe a bit smoother than the clove hitch method. Here's some info his Wife Goretta sent me: Renato Casarotto’s self-belay "When I climb alone, whether in winter or in summer, I use a self-belay system that I devised. It is rather simple, but very reliable and involves equipment that every climber brings in the rucksack: pitons, ropes and light ropes. It may imply a loss of time and therefore of energy, so it is advisable to be in really good shape, because the route has to be repeated three times: two in ascent and one in descent. When you are starting a pitch, tie your rucksack to a thin rope, 5 meters long and 8 mm diameter at least. One end of this rope is tied to the belay (one or two pitons), while the pack is tied one or two meters further away. The purpose of this thin rope and of tying the rucksack, is to increase the dynamism in the system so that in case of fall there will be less stress on the belay. The advantage is that, in case of a fall, the stretch of the thin rope and the rucksack, which will get pulled up, will greatly increase the dynamism. The end of the climbing rope is tied with a boulin (sic) knot or double fisher-man’s knot to the free end of the thin rope, which as described above is attached to the rucksack and the anchors. Once this is done, using thin rope (6 mm diameter), make two Prussik knots (0.50 meters long approximately), on the climbing rope and clip them to the harness. These will be what will stop you in case of a fall. It is important to use two because in case of a fall a single Prussik might burn. We move the Prussiks up the rope as we climb, and every time that we arrive to, or place a piton, we clip the rope by means of a karabiner, just like it is usually done. Once the pitch is finished, the rope is tied to a new belay (one or two pitons) and you rappel down, to recover the rucksack. Carrying the rucksack on your back you ascent the fixed rope, recovering all the equipment. If the wall is very steep, you can tie the rucksack to the end of the rope and recover it (haul it) from above. This system allows you to climb safely, being always on belay. This technique can be also used when a two-man team meets an unexpected problem from which an exit is necessary. In that case put one rucksack into the other or fill one with stones and proceed as described above."

First thing in the morning. I might check in with the folks heading to Erie along the way

Do Zig Zag on Snag Buttress. It's a classic 5.6 5.7 multi pitch. Good introduction. Best reached from the bottom.

I'm going to head up the North Face of Shuksan and loop back around across the Arm. Anybody game?

I'll chip in $20

Shit, my budy got hit with a 5 ounce rock that cracked his helmet.

The climber who clips his nipple chains while being spanked by Muffy is the one having the most fun

Jesus! It's all good. Some of you guys are so uptight For chrissakes, go out and pull on something besides your pud...