Billygoat

Don't pack it too high. It gets unwieldly.

ya know, if all you bring are Tri-Cams, you certainly use them a lot more... That said, I love me pinky and red. So much so I doubled up.

Climbed around Shuksan projecting a traverse I want to do. Beuoootiful up there this w/e

A complete set of Tri-Cams. Double up on the red and pinkie....Maybe a set of nuts first... (I'm being a bit silly on the Tri-Cams, I just wanted to get the "goat" of a certain person we were climbing with last weekend)

Read the whole thing Dru...That is why he used two. I don't know man. The guy's record speaks for itself! Maybe he never had a fall. It was a crevasse on his way down from K2 that got him. It was a good enough system for him to use on K2 for chrissakes...

Double Bubble Post

Renato Casarotto put up lots of new grade VI 5.9 routes around the world by himself using two prussics. Pretty low tech and maybe a bit smoother than the clove hitch method. Here's some info his Wife Goretta sent me: Renato Casarotto’s self-belay "When I climb alone, whether in winter or in summer, I use a self-belay system that I devised. It is rather simple, but very reliable and involves equipment that every climber brings in the rucksack: pitons, ropes and light ropes. It may imply a loss of time and therefore of energy, so it is advisable to be in really good shape, because the route has to be repeated three times: two in ascent and one in descent. When you are starting a pitch, tie your rucksack to a thin rope, 5 meters long and 8 mm diameter at least. One end of this rope is tied to the belay (one or two pitons), while the pack is tied one or two meters further away. The purpose of this thin rope and of tying the rucksack, is to increase the dynamism in the system so that in case of fall there will be less stress on the belay. The advantage is that, in case of a fall, the stretch of the thin rope and the rucksack, which will get pulled up, will greatly increase the dynamism. The end of the climbing rope is tied with a boulin (sic) knot or double fisher-man’s knot to the free end of the thin rope, which as described above is attached to the rucksack and the anchors. Once this is done, using thin rope (6 mm diameter), make two Prussik knots (0.50 meters long approximately), on the climbing rope and clip them to the harness. These will be what will stop you in case of a fall. It is important to use two because in case of a fall a single Prussik might burn. We move the Prussiks up the rope as we climb, and every time that we arrive to, or place a piton, we clip the rope by means of a karabiner, just like it is usually done. Once the pitch is finished, the rope is tied to a new belay (one or two pitons) and you rappel down, to recover the rucksack. Carrying the rucksack on your back you ascent the fixed rope, recovering all the equipment. If the wall is very steep, you can tie the rucksack to the end of the rope and recover it (haul it) from above. This system allows you to climb safely, being always on belay. This technique can be also used when a two-man team meets an unexpected problem from which an exit is necessary. In that case put one rucksack into the other or fill one with stones and proceed as described above."

First thing in the morning. I might check in with the folks heading to Erie along the way

Do Zig Zag on Snag Buttress. It's a classic 5.6 5.7 multi pitch. Good introduction. Best reached from the bottom.

I'm going to head up the North Face of Shuksan and loop back around across the Arm. Anybody game?

I'll chip in $20

Shit, my budy got hit with a 5 ounce rock that cracked his helmet.

The climber who clips his nipple chains while being spanked by Muffy is the one having the most fun

Jesus! It's all good. Some of you guys are so uptight For chrissakes, go out and pull on something besides your pud...

I guess we don't have to worry about the Tibloc issue anymore. Too bad this happened. An event like this has so much hope and energy to it. Condolences to all those involved. Hey Ketch, how's the conditions up there? Where are you? I was thinking of hitting the North face of Shuksan this weekend. Beta...

Seems like he had a full and rewarding life. Cheers to that!

We got drunk and pulled out the guns one night. Shot up a car in the front yard. Lots of fun that evening but what a mess the next day. We had a tow truck come and haul it off later and boy did that guy give us the screw eye...

Wha?! So YOUR KIND can kick back and blow bowls with all the hippy chicks I don't think so...

That is some advanced thinking. Glad to see it. Cheers

Will we see you at the next one Dr. C?

I can't wait till you have kids Greg... My wife and I used to look at other people and their kids and say to each other "our kid won't be like that" We have ate crow so many times now that I don't mind the feathers. I didn't witness any brand of bad parenting. Yeah sure, I let my son ride on top of the truck through the campground and whipped the kids into a frenzy by wrestling with them. Some parents would not approve. And Bug got them all jacked up with infusions of sugar and chocolate of which we do not approve. But the main thing is the kids were having a blast and a break from routine. Just like us. Greg, you will find that kid's, like dogs will sometimes act out of character when they pack up, especially if critical mass is reached. No matter how well you discipline your puppy, she may still run off with a bunch of neighbors dogs and kill livestock or attack a kid. Then come back home smiling and wagging her tail. No matter what, I am not going to discipline my kid like a dog.

Damn! That sounds pretty adventurous. GOOD LUCK Cheers Billy

Weird Load Ghost stories Fire and sticks Cover shot This is the Best...

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.....fuckit

And we only had nice things to say about you Dru