Bill_Simpkins

Took a friend up Der Toof last Sunday. Scrambled up the steep gully directly to Pinnaple pass because it looked funner. Got snide remarks from a group of mountainiers, like: "That guys a fool for climbing all the way to the tree in one pitch" "He shouldn't be running it out like that" "they should have 2 ropes" -But the runouts wern't bad and you don't need two ropes. I saw 7 people with shorts over polypro. It was the usual Tooth drama. Watching their war machine maching their way up those two pitches was very entertaining. We placed one #3 Friend, and stoppers 7,9,10,11,12. Had some fun glissades. Car to car, 5 hours. We saw a bit of litter on the route , mostly granola bar wrappers and juice containers.

I had to rap of a chockstone with a pack on just two weeks ago, and it was awkward as hell. The anchor was directly behind and above the chalkstone, and there was just empty space below the chalkstone, and the rock on the sides was all wet from snowmelt. Now tell me, what can you do? The quickest and safest solution at the time was to put my left hip against the chalkstone and lower about 2 feet, then I was good to go. No big deal. If I used the rock for those moves, I had a good chance of slipping.

Some of my favorites up there are: Fatty Bolger (11a)-short,slab mania! also good TR Kangaroo Corner (11a)-short, stemming fun Pixie Corner(5.8-5.9)-short, interesting twin cracks Banana Peel (5.7-5.8)-long...kind of...fun Anything on the Raven's Castle on top of the Chief ***Joes Dike (5.7) 2 pitch bolted.*** Nice views, slabby, a couple good sport routes, 2 pitches

to stick up for cat turd, rapping chimneys can be a bit awkward sometimes, especially when there's a large chalkstone. I suggest going really slow and balancing yourself with your free hand, maybe keeping your feet off the rock till you get past the obstacle. Another option is to stem with your feet on both sides. Definately just take your time and don't be afraid to look wimpy while doing it. Maybe Try sitting on the edge of the chimney and easying yourself down slowly.

Those roads by the South Twin ARE bushwacking. They are very overgrown. I think you are talking about the ridge that connects with the South Ridge. The shortest, least painless and fastest way to the summit that I know of is to take the flagged TRAIL to the basin between the North and South Twin, then cut up the snow to the ridge. From here it's a scramble to the summit, and sometimes a little more snow if you cut right across the SW slopes near the summit.

There is only one West Ridge on the South Twin. What you see on the photo is just dark colored land. There is a small peak that lays South of the upper portion of the Ridge, but it is not on a ridge. The Ridge that you see even further south may be part of the Little Sister.

NF Shuksan NF N. Twin NF Luna NF Himmelhorn NF Nooksack Tower NF Tomyhoi

I've been using Julbo Sherpas for 3 years. I like em. I got them for 29.95 at campmor. The "next" are even cheaper. Look no more! All julbos at campmor.com

A good placement is a good placement, whether its a 2 by 4 , a nut or cam.

I'm in.

I only know of one Eldorado. That is the one near Cascade Pass.

Pushing yourself can be rewarding. In situations like that I usually ask my partner how things look. If they are scetched out too, then I should probably back off. Some days I feel generally sketched out about everything, just a mood I guess. Sometimes when I'm sketched out I take advantage of my location and practice anchors and rope stuff. Or just eat.

Fellatio Shizzlemah

He used my Eldorado summit pic.

I did South Arete. The couloir looked like an easy snow ascent.

$#%@'in hics!!!!!! I park there a lot. I know that a lot of hics go back there and get drunk and shoot off there shotguns and stuff. I'm sorry that happened.

I am planning on climbing U WALL this weekend. I read the recent access report, but I am wondering if anyone knows if U WALL is shut down from falcon nesting. Would hate to drive up ther and see a sign. Thanks.

I climbed it Monday. Was very nice. There was a little snow on the route. Still managed fine with rock shoes. Didn't need an ice axe on the spire. Needed ice axe in morning on the approach because snow was hard. Good glissading back.

That is a cedar tree correct? Well, the bark on a cedar can be peeled off. Whatever is doing it doesn't have to reach up 20 feet. Just has to get a good grip down low, probably with it's teeth, then jerk backwards till it rips up the tree and finally breaks off. Needs a little strength to do this and climb a few feet up. So my guess is a bear.

OMG!

I have Patagonia Guide Pants. I wash them by hand in mild soap and hang dry them. I use them a lot. They are still like new. Wash all of your climbing clothes by hand and hang dry them, they will last longer, except throw the gortex in the drier.

good one Dru.

Dude! I'm at school! You just scarred me and the people at the workstations around me forever!

Leave at midnight. If your average-paced, it shouldn't be a problem. Still have time for a nap halfway up . That is when you can drive to the parking lot and if you don't need snowshoes. I heard of a badass with skies doing it in 6 hours, car-to car.

Hey Mounties! Review men's guide pants, I have the Tan ones and love'em (not listed). women's Guide Pants