Bill_Simpkins

When the nut pulls When the cam blows Then I'm feeling sad But when I find booty gear and new rap slings Then I don't feel so bad.

My guess is they are going to be looking for neutrinos in this thing. Shooting them from somewhere else in the country through the ground. They have one of these detectors in an old salt mine in Wisonson, called MINOS, (one of my old professors works there). They need a lot of density in the rock to filter out other particles from cosmic radiation. They will probably have a big main detection room with a giant pool of water to detect the passing neutrino. I guessing the cavern they make will be rather large and deep. The semi's may be hauling in loots of metal for the walls of the pool. Just a guess.

Swinging Leads: Self-equalizing Figure-8 knot with rope (Falcon: advanced rock climbing). This knot easily self-equalizes 2 or 3 points. Not Swingling Leads: Two cordelettes or Web-O-lets, preferably. One for current anchor, one for next anchor.

Sugerloaf cracks need no jamming, barely need hands. I learned to jam on XY crack in Leavenworth, and Octopus Gardens in Squish. Personally, Octopus has a ton more to offer. Yeah they are a tad harder, but they are way longer, force more technique, and totally nice! Another good crack to learn on is the crack on the right on the second pitch of GNS at Index. Pefect hands and fist 5.6, but someone has to lead to the anchors first.

down on your luck?

More to add to list: -Play Capture the Flag at night on Campus w/ cc.com-ers -Hike North lake Watcom trail and hike to top of falls just before the bridge by the 1-mile marker. Or take a dip by the rope-swing. -Get eggs benedict at the Bayside Cafe on the Waterfront. -Dive off the cliffs at Whatcom Falls Park. -Go to the Smell garden at very long boardwalk through the park at Tennant Lake. -Throw in a crab pot at the Ferry Terminal. -Go hang out at the park at Birch Bay. -Go bowling at Mt. Baker Lanes in Ferndale. -See how fast you can run from the pullout on Chuckanut by Larabee's old enterance to The Point. Boulder the overhang and traverse to the 5.8 reach, climb the reach, run to the Pink Wall, traverse that back and forth, run to Clayton Beach, Boulder the up and over problem, run to exactor slab, go up and down the easy crack, then up the 5.8 layback, then the V0 layback, then run to the Grey Wall, do a traverse back and forth, then back up to the car. Post your time on cc.com. -Hike the tracks north of the Oyster bar where the windsurfers go and try not to look at the naked old men. -Find the shortest way to Lost Lake. (mine is 20 minutes) -Play laid back par-3 golf at New World Golf, or go hit off a bucket at the driving range, they will loan you a club for free. - Loiter inside AAI, and do knot tricks with the employees. Good Luck.

SWM ISO SWF. N/S, L/D, H/W Prop. 5.5-5.11, 4-6c, 12-24, HS-E3, or 36-24-36. ATC or BFD, No STD or SBD. HVD-HVS, BYOB, no DSHS. V1-V4, no Hep A or 10-4.

Sometimes getting good at something else can make you better at what you've been doing. Take a good, long break from climbing. Maybe do a ton of hiking, or get into fast-packing. Light scrambles, play soccer, whatever. Have fun and forget all the pressure. When you return to climbing, you may suprise yourself. I

Starting after Nov. 20th, I'll have space for a roomate. I live in a unique apartment on the Mount Baker HWY. $340/m, no deposit. Must tolerate occasion rope or gear thrown on the licingroom floor. Utilities included in rent The room is of normal size, the apartment is rather larger. Buildering underneath stairs is available.

Maybe Banana Peel If I was more comfortable with the move at the finger travese on end of the wave pitch.I've never biffed that move, but solo would be a bit weird for me. That rest of the climb is a breeze. Some climbs on the Apron are so runout anyways, a rope would do much good.

REI SUB KILO RULES!!!!! They have a 0 deg and a 20 deg. Everytime I take it out, everyone else is jealous, cause they are light as hell, and pack real small. Ever since I got one, I'm down to a 2200 cu inch pack.

The sabertooths pack nice and take little room in the pack. Although I don't like traversing in them as much as the grivels. The grivels have one tooth cranked sideways to give stability while traversing, but the BD's are generally better for icy stuff. I've used my Grivel G10's all season this year, my Sabertooth's havn't seen any action for a year and a half. They popped off once on the Emmons glacier, but havn't since I cranked on the screw. If they made a sabertooth with that tooth cranked sideways, then you would have a great crampon! -One other note, my Sabertooth's have tended to ball up a little easier.

Thanks for the good advice, I e-mailed Edelweiss, maybe I'll hear back from them......

I just got a new rope in the mail. It is a Edelweiss 60m 9.6 mm rope. As I was coiling it back up, and I noticed a indent in the rope caused by the strapping that the rope came packaged in (inside the plastic, so Edelweiss put this strapping on). I tried to "rub" this indent out, but it is still there. My question is, should I be concerened about the strength of the rope. Has this happened to anyone else? -Bill

Going to Index, whoohoo!

Hiking, scrambling, rock climbing, whatever. my knee is still a little sore so nothing to harsh ya'll. I have gear and wheels. I'd like to go to Squish, Lib Bell, hiking around baker area, scramble up some unknown little peak, just something. I can leave tonight at 6. PM me, I will check them between 5 and 5:30. -Bill

A 51 year-old man died in Bellingham yesterday after falling off a 15 foot cliff. He accidently fell into the water and his head hit a rock. I don't think he was a climber. So wear your helmets guys and gals. A little fall can do you in.

I like the Anasazi Velcros. The velcro allows me to get a good fit, fast. I like 'em for cracks and slab too. I still use my old La Sportiva Enduro high-tops for the easy stuff though.

That would be a good time to have that stuff! Experience tells you when you need it. I agree, some people don't go prepared enough.

Going light doesn't prevent anyone from doing anything, or compromise their safety, we just learn how to do more, with less. But if it takes a 100 pound pack to get the job done, then buck it up. I have a climbing partner that is 65 years old. On every climb we've done, he wears an old pair of leather hiking boots, uses a small Jansport book bag, wraps his crampons in an old vest starpped to the top, carries his home-made ice axe in his hand, brings nylon wind/rain wear, and carries two small water bottles that he fills up in creeks and with snow. He usually eats raisins and apples. He's bagged countless cool peaks and doesn't talk about it unless you bring it up. He moves like the wind across the sketchiest terrain. He has a really good sense of what he is comfortable with and what he can do. I've picked some things up from him, but the most important things I've learned is that you can handle a little more than you think you can, and to turn around when you don't feel good. Some other things I picked up: You can travel through thick brush quickly without beating yourself up. You can go through scree without getting rocks in your shoes. You can traverse wet heather fast without slipping. I never purify my water anymore, and I have never gotten sick. I threw half the crap out of my pack. Walking fast is less suffering than walking slow. Plus much more. He even learned one or two tricks from a young buck like me! These arn't things that are taught in books, nor could I explain them to anyone. It's called.........get this people............experience. I can't wait to get old! --addition: I think too many people these days are getting wrapped up in gear before they ever get out there and be human and use the tools that took millions of years of research and development. You arms, your legs, your heart, your brain, and your instinct. I think people should learn to use those first before they go out and buy any gear.

Nice job! However, every piece is back-clipped! But I did way worse on my first lead. The pro looks good. keep it up. -Nevermind, I was hallucinating when i looked at the pic. The first is clipped fine. The second looks back-clipped. Long day.

"Get a crash pad on that rock below him immediately!" On a serious note: Just put yourself in their position. Imagine NEVER looking at rock in such a way as to climb it before. You have to teach from the very start. Just getting used to it. It could be a BIG deal for some people. The instructor should have told her to take the gaitors off. There is no need to wear them to "get used" to them. There is no major adjustment period for them. It's like wearing a condom when your jerking off.

The main route is to the right and around to the north. I've been up the center part, with a belay. Rapped off the summit slings and then a piton with a 30 m rope.

I'm glad he's ok. I hope they work out their money and I hope noone took his stuff. I played in a band with his brother, back in the day. There was someone else a few years back that died from the same thing on the same snowfield. It's good to take every step as if your going to slip. Everyone take care out there.

I have one and I love it. Never had a problem with it.