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catbirdseat

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Everything posted by catbirdseat

  1. It's only an epic if you get back to town after that bars have all closed.
  2. That is is a logical assumption considering neither of us were there.
  3. The Bush Administration counts that as her greatest asset. She has almost no public record. Bush knows everything he needs to know about her, but Congress will only find out what Bush wants them to know.
  4. Damn, I was thinking of going there, but the weather forecast was no better than Leavenworth. I should have known better.
  5. Sorry, but I was very antisocial and went climbing when I would have been much better off drinking with the rest of 'em. Serves me right.
  6. Last time I was there I met some Canadians from Vancouver who were there for the first time and they were raving about it. They were like, "wow, you can climb in the warm sun while it's cold and raining at Squamish- Fantastic!".
  7. Round Jack Horner Up the apples and pears Jump into Uncle Ned Lay your loaf of bread On your Little Po Peep And go to sleep.
  8. Climb: Condor Buttress-Condorphamine Addiction Date of Climb: 10/1/2005 Trip Report: My buddy Jim and I were going to climb Orbit, but the threatening weather dictated a route that would be easy to bail from. Condorphamine Addiction faces south as AlpineK pointed out, so it had at least a chance of being dry. It was dry at 11 am when we arrived after an "interesting" cross country scramble. Jim led the first two pitches together, skipping every other bolt. He was set to continue on the third pitch, but I told him he'd probably run out of rope (60 m rope). He brought me up in rain. By now the rock was soaking wet and my fingers got cold on the way up. The crux move of the second pitch was tricky for me wearing a pack and with wet rock. I led the third and fourth pitches strung together skipping a bolt here and there. They were quite a bit easier than the first two. Jim headed off on the fifth pitch and rain turned to sleet. Jim stalled out on a cruxy section while I froze my ass off. We elected to bail at this point. I lowered him off a quicklink and we rapped down. Seems like a 70 m rope would enable one to rap between any two stations at a time. Back at the base it was much warmer as there was much less wind. The rain stopped as we approached Bathtub Dome, so we stopped to lead a couple of slab routes, the first of which was called Chitlins, 5.8. Of course it was wet but there was a bail biner on it and Jim saw that as a challenge. He got to the biner but could go no further in shoes that were too big and wouldn't edge on itty bitty flakes. I lowered him off and had a go at it. My greater height enabled me to just reach a thin flake and move my feet up. Just as I was clipping a bolt, the flake broke off in my left hand. Jim saw the sudden movement and assumed I was falling, but I wasn't. He starts yarding in on the rope. I yelled, "ease off". My feet must have been better than I thought, because I didn't fall and finished the clip and then the pitch. I suspect that, even dry, Chitlins is a sandbag for 5.8. It would appear that what may have been nice sharp flakes initially are now rather rounded ones after 16 years of traffic. While we were setting up for the 5.9 to the left, met Alistair and Pat as they were heading up to do the arete on the right side of the top tier of Bathtub Dome. It looked like they had fun on it. By 5 pm, Jim and I had had enough and went into Ducks and Drakes for fish sandwiches and natchos (gag- too much cheese!). Found out that Ducks and Drakes is Cockney rhyme for "DT's and Shakes". Gear Notes: Bunch of quickdraws for CA and a rack to 2.5" that we only used on the last 5.9 route. Approach Notes: The trail is highly recommended.
  9. What is meant by "desperate eliminate"? I assume that you refer to applying a rule whereby you can't stem off the crack to the left? You'd have to go look at it. The crack to the left of the seam may be farther than it looks in the photo. Look at Lingerie. The same applies to it.
  10. I just read in the New York Times that scientists have discovered that bats are the reservoir for the SARS virus in the wild. It turns out that the Chinese eat the bats and use the guano in medicine. The civet cats were not the primary source after all.
  11. E-Rock, what you need to do is to tell your mother that you will be there to help her if she decides to leave. You have to decide how far you are willing to go to help her.
  12. Dru, I never realized just how little you swear until you do it.
  13. Are we going to have dwarf tossing?
  14. Oh, well, my bad. It's not really alpine being so close to the road.
  15. When you think about it, there is almost nothing you could say that would inflame more passions than what he said. I don't think he was talking off the cuff. It baffles the mind how anyone could be so foolish. I can see how he might figure that 99% of blacks are anti-administration already, so what is there to lose, but bringing abortion into it is pissing off his own base.
  16. Groundhog Day on Tumwater Buttress, Tumwater Canyon.
  17. This iffy weather may work out in favor of newbies. I'm thinking I might not want to go too far from the road. Maybe I'll offer to take some new folks up some easy multipitch.
  18. I haven't read the book but I've read many of his interviews and he really digs business. It's an interesting model.
  19. Who was it once said, "give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."?
  20. Fair warning, he won't talk much about climbing. This talk is about business.
  21. Fairweather, did you also mention that over the same period (1980-2000) the prison population increased by four-fold?
  22. Hey man, don't call it looting. It was an "unauthorized expropriation for personal use". I swear we need to start a "Euphemism Thread".
  23. Political impedus? Political impedence? Political impetus? Political iambic pentameter? Quite different meanings.
  24. Dru, I hate to tell you this but antibacterial means it kills bacteria, not that it kills viruses. The most common antibacterial ingredient is Triclosan. Triclosan has a semi-specific mechanism for bacteria. It being a phenolic compound, one would expect it to denature proteins too, but they only use it at a fairly low concentration.
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