catbirdseat

Kuroshin is using this maniac to ridicule Americans. They don't have to parody us when we can do it ourselves. This guy sort of sums up all in one neat little package the Ugly American.

I thought that images of the creator were forbidden.

I led the route yesterday. To get up on the broken column, I placed two small nuts in the crack belonging to the 5.11b route to the right. After the column top, I got in a #3.5 Friend (you are in grounder territory here, but this part is easy). You also get two Camalot #4.5 placements (I had only one- backcleaned the first below chockstone), a chockstone tie-off and another 3.5 Friend, seven placements in all. If I had a Camalot #5 I would have used it. The last 15 ft is too wide for anything but a Bigbro, but it is easy. This route is significantly easier than Steel Grill, 5.9. The only loose part to watch out for is going over the broken column top. The route length is almost exactly 25 m.

...and what if it had said a nice long feature on Fred? Hmmm?

I had a conversation with a climber who told me he only trusts ball nuts for aid. He claims they are not reliable enough for free climbing and prefers micro cams. He also said that it is especially important with this sort of device to orient it as closely as possible in the direction of the expected load. What I remember from previous advice is that it is important to avoid using too small a ball nut for a given crack so it has room to expand and to set it with a good tug. I've never actually taken a fall on one myself, so I don't know what to believe. I sure wish Joseph would chime in on this thread and fill in the blanks for me. Anyway, I've found a thread on RC.com with some excellent information: Ball Nutz

History majors need jobs too.

Right KK, how are we supposed to judge her based on her performance as a judge?

This thread is the Nodder in disguise.

Reminds me of 1984: Black is White and White is Black.

This one has been around in various forms for a long time, but Cleese's version is pretty funny.

We don't have a shortage this year. Everyone who wants one can get one. So don't let that be a reason to decide whether to have one or not.

You make a damn good point there, Josh.

Oly, padding your post count is highly unethical.

Django Reinhardt, Al DeMeola, Martin Tylor,

I see he's done Memorial Crack

What do you mean you didn't win? Sure you won. If the climbing gyms use them, it must be safe. Seriously, though, they have what, 2-3% elongation versus 8-9% for a dynamic, for argument's sake. The fall factor is never worse than 1 on top rope. A one foot fall with 100 ft of rope out is FF 0.01. This is equivalent to a FF 0.03 or three foot fall on a dynamic rope. Sure it's safe.

I'll just have to go back and climb Chitlins dry to find out, won't I?

That's right. That's the original meaning. Skipping stones.

Without a paper trail, no one can be sure whether fraud was committed or not. This is the reason that scientists still keep paper notebooks in the age of computers. Part of my daily routine is pasting and initialing printouts into my notebook and then getting the pages countersigned. If something is really important, like proving a drug is safe and effective, or perhaps an election, then there should be a paper trail. You can still have electronic vote counting, but you must be able to go back to the hard copy if there is any question of propriety or lack there of.

Some of those jokes are a lot funnier if the listener is drunk.

Damnation is on my tick list if you want to go back. I have #4 and #4.5 Camalots (C3) plus a #4 Clog (=Friend).

But if it is perceived as making you look like a geriatric on a bike, how sexy is that? You can either be perceived as geriatric, or you can actually be geriatric. Which would you prefer?

If you buy east of the mountains your dollars will go to help support local wildlife areas. That's good.

Bad news for Dave_Schuldt and Ken4ord.

Rock falls in Squamish too, like anywhere else. The difference is that in Squamish, you're less likely to see it, or hear it coming, or expect it for that matter.