billcoe

Glad you made if off in one (fairly intact) piece! I'm not being sarcastic, rude or condensending either. Out of laziness, I never did the S side with pro. In perhaps 30 trips up it, no pro other than a single axe. Expected that a boot axe belay or chopping something would do the trick. I can think of 3 times, but 1 real bad instance, where something, or a couple of ice screws would had eased my concerns and greatly helped out. It was not much more than luck that I never had an accident on the route, and I considered myself above average in the skill dept. Witnessed some doozies though. So welcome back!

Thread hijack/revival in progress: John, I watched a story on TV last night about a fella that helps another dude off Everest after some other climbers had walked away and ignored the fella. I was thinking of you all the way, hoped you made it up the big one later. I'd tie in with you and Bill anytime, look me up if you get down this way and want a good belay doing some moderate wanking.

Yea, K2 is just a big hike Tell Wayne1112 that.

Nice call Ivan, but gather round little childrens and listen carefully as this is the most important part of that climb. The top of P1 is not the dual bolts. Those are for the rappel ONLY. They are not the anchor . OK, sure I've used them as the anchor and I've led that next pitch as well while being belayed from them. Short and interesting story. Opy and I went up there origonally and I ran out to directly under the butthole crack, and I backed off. Yes, my pussy ass became weak kneed. Had I (or Jim) owned TCUs or Aliens, could have been a different story, but with nuts only, no previewing, looking up at the runout and what appears to be loose stuff up there - I couldn't do the FFA of the pitch. Almost peed myself I felt so uncomfortable. Plus I have kids I needed to return home to and put through college. Anywho, Jim goes back with Kenny. Belaying from the rap anchors, Kenny runs out there, Jim had put a bolt in where the route turns, Kenny clips and goes. Kenny was a lot stronger than me, duh. Braver as well. So Kenny goes up and somewhere up there he falls. Shhhh, settle down now and be quiet: that rope, running over that little ridge 8 feet to the left of the P1 rap anchors, cores out about 8-10 feet. Totally strips the kern off the mantel. Then Kenny goes for it again and makes it up. OMG. With the rope cored. So my point is, climb up to the 2 bolt anchor, clip them for the follower, then step left 8 feet to the single bolt/Pin anchor. You can back it up. Unless you know your buddie won't fall or it's his rope and you just don't care.

Good call on Tuchmans book, maybe one of the very best books: period. It made me want to read of bunch of her books, and "The Guns of August" still stands out. ("A Distant Mirror" would be my vote for second best Tuchman work) To take that obtuse sequense of events and put it down so it is both accurate and interesting is a major coup for her. I have read it twice. Very, very good book. Still don't know why that lying prick Wilson entered the US into the war. Bueller....... Bueller........?

Ivan said: JimmyO really, really wanted that off the net and untopoed which explains why it is not in the guidebook.Despite not being in the guidebook it may be the 2nd most popular route out there. Dad: don't know if I'm Beacon folks, I don't think so, some of these guys are almost living out there, recommend hooking up with someone who knows the thing and doing the route.

Thanks Jon Interesting point, Dan Osmans friends set up a bank fund to help his kid out at the time of his death. The kid shows up years later on Rockclimbing.com and says that the Lowlife Aunt downloaded the account and none of it was seen or went to her or her mom.

Not me, I'd want them to clear my airway.

OK

My grandfather (Bill Coe) was a marine in a ditch in the Western Front (pretty much Belgium). I asked him once " What was WW1 like"? He paused for quite some time, staring into the distance. Finally he says in a quiet voice which carried the weight of finality: "horrible". End of conversation. Guess he didn't want to discuss the ditch rats eating his dead buddies who were lying in the excrement of the ditch, rotting, while he watched. Has anybody anywhere ever really figured out what got that bastard Woodrow Wilson, the "peace candidate", to commit so many good lives to what was clearly a ghastly horror show?

The abstract of that idea alone is enough to put me to sleep. Who cares, that kind of stuff is for people whos idea of climbing is climbing out of bed in the morning. Like most of the books mentioned. Nobody mentions White Spider? Book I loved 30 years ago was " James Ramsey Ulman, "Banner in the Sky".

So say I threw $50 bucks Kurts way via Jons paypal account and say "Kurts recovery", this money will get to Kurt? For sure? Just checking, get well Kurt, maybe we'll tie in someday.

________________________________________________ I wasn't there. I don't know about it specifically. But if a litter were to scrape a loose boulder or rock off which then bounces over and coldcocks some poor bastard just peacefully munching a sandwich down below.......well, one could see that the line of ambulance chasers would far exceed the number of climbers within 20 nanaseconds, thus swamping the park and resources of the authorities to handle them all. __________________________________________________ Fishsticks says: So this may have more to the eye than first blush and explains why the first post was deleted perhaps: sounds like SAR was in the process of an actual rescue and was helping some unfortunate off..... Maybe the victim of the Apron accident was not bothered by the closure, and maybe the SAR could have let the first complaintant and his buddy climb through while they let the poor bastard lie there in a pool of blood waiting for them to finish the route......I suppose the victim wouldn't have minded if he was unconcious.....

Well! Bill, I believe your razor sharp size whittling may have inspired Nosoup to delete the original gripe! Nosoup, I didn't mean to shut you down like that. Sorry dude. It could be very likely that someone on this board knows those folks, and can relay your complaint to them. If they were out of line, sometimes a gentle reminder can really help out. We are all really blessed to have people like them, that what they do is important - but it's a good thing to remind them as well that they don't own the cliffs if thats the case too. Please don't let this be your last post. Tell us of how your day went! The good climbs you like or a short story. Post a pic if you have one. Stick around.

I was thinking it was Wayyyyy hard. Thanks

As an aid climb? What is it, A3? I suspect you mean as a free climb. What's the rating anyway?

Ok

Way to get after it. ________________________________________________ 4 sets? It of course leds one to wonder 2 things. How many hands do you Eastern Washington guys normally have that you need 4 sets of Brass Knuckles? -and- Don't ya ever wonder what would happen if you showed up with all 4 sets and the other fella(s) showed up for the discussion with a single tactical 12 ga shotgun?

http://www.defensetech.org/archives/002531.html Taking down a nucular missle. Text follows. "Clowns Sabotage Nuke Missile On Tuesday morning, a retired Catholic priest and two veterans put on clown suits, busted into a nuclear missile launch facility, and began beating the silo cover with hammers, in an attempt to take the Minuteman III missile off-line. Seriously. silo-E8-gate.jpgThe trio -- members of the Luck, Wisconsin group Nukewatch -- said the break-in was part of "a call for national repentance" for the Hiroshima and Nagaski A-bombings in 1945. The activists used bolt-cutters to get into the E-9 Minuteman II facility, located just northwest of the White Shield, North Dakota. "Using a sledgehammer and household hammers, they disabled the lock on the personnel entry hatch that provides access to the warhead and they hammered on the silo lid that covers the 300 kiloton nuclear warhead," the group said in a statement. "The activists painted 'It's a sin to build a nuclear weapon' on the face of the 110-ton hardened silo cover and the peace activists poured their blood on the missile lid." This was all done while wearing face paint, dunce caps, misfitting overalls, and bright yellow wigs. We dress as clowns to show that humor and laughter are key elements in the struggle to transform the structures of destruction and death. Saint Paul said that we are “fools for God's sake,” and we say that we are “fools for God and humanity.” Clowns as court jesters were sometimes the only ones able to survive after speaking truth to authorities in power. Guards responded within minutes. And when they arrived, the protesters "ate a lot of gravel," I'm told. "The individuals were taken from the area and brought to the McLean County Jail," the AP notes. "The three are being charged with criminal trespass and criminal mischief, both Class A misdemeanors, and bond was set at $500 each.... The FBI is involved in the case and federal charges are pending."

Ivan, there you go.

U tockin 2 me? Ck PM.

You bet, if you need it Bryan, I'll run you like a Labrador chasing a ball till your paws bleed and you whimper for mercy! You can get your equipment back too as a small side bonus, and there is never a return charge as long as you don't drop me while belaying my wide ass. Rocky Butte 5:45pm for me. Bring a rope.

I think (90 percent certain) the red/yellow stuff is Brians (Arnts partner). Dunno about the Blue tape. ____________________________________________________ Nice pic of the pin! That's an awesome good deed replacing it with one of your good ones. Want to get in the office pool on how long until somebody starts complaining about you doing it? I was thinking of that Sunday when I was picking up the glass, beer and pizza boxes at Rocky Butte. Wondering how long until some pinhead came up and started complaining about me picking it up. I caught shit from some dickhead for trimming back the bushes on top a bit ago. Pretty surprising. Thanks again. ___________________________________________________ I really liked the way the rope ran over the edge right there. It was a gentle rounded shape and had an inch of moss for further protection.

Well, you don't give your real name, and you've got 2 posts so far and both of them are complaining about (probably unpaid) people training to save other peoples lives......... Just an observation, not trying to come off as rude or anything. Regards: Bill

If you decide to do any cracks talk to me first and I'll hook you up with a nut tool. Looks like a Chouinard with red tape. Comes with a biner, also red tape. Must be yours. I have it clipped to my backpack right now. I was drinking beer and got a short rack of my stuff back last night at a gear exchange and when I went to stuff it in my lead pack, saw your stuff. Dem shits just followed me home. _____________________________________________________ I'm thinking of cleaning at the Butte tonight, if I stumble over somebody or you just need a belay slave, just say so.