billcoe

Woke up this am and wife asks: "You going climbing after work today hon?" Me: "Nah, think I'll take a day off." Her: "Hahahahaha told you you'd hurt it the other day didn't I? " "Hahahahaha told you". Me: "Yes, you did."

You're welcome and no worries..... "When a still wind conspires an armor......" so to speak. No kidding, I had recognised the car of a couple of Noobs on top and was heading down to fish a belay from them so I could lead it right when you called. Then I went over and was doing some easy climbing with them to warm up and wait for you and I had time to wonder 3 things while waiting. 1st) How hard the potential route was. 2nd) How bad my ripped tendon sheath would hurt. 3rd) How difficult it would be to listen to my wife say "! told you so" in rememerance of her previous days comment of "You need some time off or you're going to hurt it bad" as I taped up and headed out the door Saturday to finish cleaning the line. I ended Saturday somewhat in pain just from scraping dirt and cleaning the crack and have not, nor will I - share this secret with her, so as to avoid the "I told you so". Offering it to you first on Sunday was an easy way to wuss. If you'd turned it down I would have jumped on it. You looked so damn graceful up there it really made it a pleasure to belay you. . Thats not it. BTW Bryan, NOLSE already drilled some holes up top in April with his new NASA Drill, and given that no one has chopped Glenns new route yet or stolen anything off of the new routes recently, (although there is one recently missing from the 5.8 on video bluff which was a non-origonal retro bolt) I'm putting in another set of anchors or chains up on top to easily access your new route. Should help keep it clean. Corona Glass House it is, although that may have at least 1 word too many to ever be considered a classic! Have fun out at Beacon, Highly recommend Dods Jam (Dods has a nice warm up to get to the crux, and not a lot of chuff to get there like some of the routes out there), Bluebird, Blownout and Blood sweat and smears. You should have no trouble on Free for Some, I've never had cams on it - it's always all nuts, I would think they'd help a lot. You could probably pull the first 4 pitches in 1 long pitch on Ground Zero too (gets you under the roof), doing it in 1 gets you to the crux up high with nice pieces and soft rope stretch if you fall off at the crux. I suspect you could pull it, goes 5.11d, but it's real safe unlike what you were on yesterday with a low to the ground crux.

fyi Weekend News if you are interested: If you see a new clean line to the left of Bill's Buttress, Bryan Schmidt led a new route at there on Sun. Goes maybe easy 10 or so. No name, location is far left side of the Buttress as you look at it with the crux up high. Pro is mixed the crux is fixed pro (1 pin, 1 bolt) which you can also get a small wired in between the 2. He hasn't named it, and maybe it will stay unnamed like the other 4 new routes there. Edges and ledges, stairway and glass house were tossed around. Then he wandered over and onsited the 5.11 diheadral to the left of Emotional Rescue. Although the book calls it 5.11a, I pulled a key hold off of there like 2 years ago, so probably a bit harder. Pretty impressive day for sleeping in. Guess this means his toe isn't broken as bad as he thought. Later, Bill

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Seemed to go up fairly fast recently. This seems great: rope-de-dope Beal Edlinger 10.2 60M Std $119. plus $ 4.95 to dhl it to your door.

5.13 Bryan. Dwight told me he'd done 5.13 free solo. I do not doubt it a bit. But the 5.8 was an enchainment of the Tetons and rockfall probably knocked his noggin I suspect...not a chance in hell he'd fall on a 5.8. Gotta agree with Bryan on all that stuff. But who really cares though. Once you start clicking and getting in the zone, I think that the free solo'er may be relatively safe for a highly experinced climber who knows their limits. Bachar, Croft, Potter may be safer 5-10 grades under their max on 5.11+ than a newb with a rope on 5.6 for sure. It is signifagant though that statement doesn't apply to us weekend armchair dudes though. I had a friend who said they find people at JT all the time just laying dead on the ground and you never read it in the newspapers. Most likly victims of free soloing. I was in the valley when Derek Hershey flew off Sentinal too. He was a wild man who had free soloed 5.11 regularly in Colorado and climbed some of the harder trad stuff around with gear, but augers in on a valley 5.9. (I think it may have been the rain in the afternoon which got him, but he should have been down by then so who can really say). Point is, I don't think you can quantify it. Free soloing is more dangerous. Period. Try this for a test. Go do a route roped up. Then go do the same route without a rope. Come back with a report. Everytime I've ever done this, I feel that free soloing it was way more dangerous. If you don't agree with me that free soloing is more dangerous, go do an onsite of a route you've never done without the rope, then climb it with the rope and gear and share it with us all. Shit like Earl Wiggans onsite free solo 2nd ascent of Scenic Cruise, where he gets off route and puts up a new 5.10D variation, onsite, unroped free soloing, in the Black Canyon of the Friggan Gunnison, only blow my mind the more. Incredible. Not having the rope and gear is more dangerous. My opinion. Agree with Dr Argon too.

2 things 1 know: 1st) Rudy and Gosolo definatively and authratitively answered this about 20 posts ago. 2nd) I can't spell for shit. ___________________________________________ I like that "gravity monkee" thing you posted which we all carry on our back. None of us is immune from a mistake. None of us. As we learn we get better at analysing and avoiding them is all. There is no immunity. Ever. Gravity Rules......always.

Good on ya dude. You might grab the powderhound and share this quest Stewart.

I think curves came in in the early 80's wasn't it, so it's older than that. Didn't the swaging with wire start in late 60's early 70's, so it must be in there somewhere. Thing might be older than you Blake. Course, I have some on my current TR rack that age I bought new. Totally guessing BTW, no flames, I'm old, but my memory sucks. Healyje would know all that stuff. Click this link: Healyje typical display of brilliance Nut Museum

Hi JH! Seems like normal course of events with different people and injuries You haven't forgotten your shoulder have you? Happy trails!

Damm- that almost worded for word happened to me. Size 12 fires didn't fit my size 8.5 feet but I put em on so I could climb above and lower them to the ground anyway. The Chouinard story was origonally told by Steve Roper, I think the route might have been Lost Arrow Chimney. Great stuff, keep it coming, the dude needs some inspiration and I don't know if Laytons stuff, abiet good quality, will quite get him over the hump.

Doc said @ 2weeks, and the 4th sucked just hanging around the house drinking with the neighbors. Well, that part was OK:-) I'm taking the splint off occasionally and stretching 3 times daily. Have ice on it right now typing. The big lump went down substantially overnight once the splint was on. This is your fault BTW in case you were not aware of it, it wouldn't have happened if you'd just dumped your G/F and gone climbing with me like I nicely asked. I popped the tendon on the back of the wrist by using a bow saw after the end of a 7 hour cleaning session with a rake at the butte. I would have been climbing on clean 250' splitters instead of ass-deep in dirt if you'd been in agreement! So obviously it's your fault for sure Ha ha, just giving YOU a hard time now. Take care: Bill

No Sir: thats not true. There is not only the anecdotal evidence, but they've done medical studies which confirm that you outclimb me with a broken toe when I'm full strength, while I can't climb for shit with a splint on my arm. Still in awe. Take care Bryan

Glad you had a good time Jim. Like lots of people, I sometimes just head there to hang out for a bit too, really enjoy the feeling of just being there. I'd heard about your solo fall and resulting tweakage, hope it all heals up for you fast. Maybe next time I can actually meet you!

show the pics Dru!

Doctor said I'm out with a popped tendon sheath in the wrist for a bit JH. Got a nice splint and everything! The tendon agrees with the splint thing and enjoys the feel of it, it had been all wrapped up in a tight nasty, painful ball/lump which was strange to feel, just under the skin. The plan-------> Ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, stretch, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, stretch, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ibuprofen, ice, stretch, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, stretch, ice, ibuprofen, ibuprofen, ice, stretch, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, stretch, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen, ice, ibuprofen..............about that much. Then.............splint off, tada! Ease into it and I'm back baby.

Wow, yours just healed too. My turn! My turn!

Kyle, you sound like a sick puppy dude! Wadda mean "so much fun cleaning". Cleaning is damn hard work. You are suppose to suffer and experiance nausea and pain! The only other person who tried showing up (Jim Robinson) only lasted 20 min before they bailed! Course, he rapped past a huge sharp loose stalagtite without uncorking/trundling on it, and he spent 15 min wondering what body part (s) that sharp thing would slice off if his rope dislodged it I think. Fortunately Jim named the Buttress though, very signifigant since he used my name! Down to the last (best) route or 2. Check your PMs! You, Jeff and I can finish this section off. Do you give good belay btw, you looked competant as hell out as Beacon but I didn't tie in with you. See ya, I gotta go get some ibuprofen and ice. Jeff and Kyle: local posts click here:--> PDX

As the recipient of a severe head injury, (unconcious and couldn't remember how to talk, lost lots of memory) I can say that although the middle of the process looks iffy and scary, the end result can (said CAN ) sometimes be better that before. So, gook luck Kurt, hang in there and relax about it, it really gets better.

Opps, thread drift Layton, we were talking about me and my wrist you know. The sound of 1 hand typing. (thanks Seth and Bri for the kind words ! )

FEI: I'm out with a popped tendon sheath in the wrist for a bit. Hard to type. So I'm checking out. Enjoy!

Strangly enough - they were not there this am. Wife was going to start dialing apiariey folks today. Wonder if the bees were just coming back for honey yesterday....If they had been here, and if I had Dru's address, I could have shipped them off to him to keep the snapping turtle company. Gotta go get some rock now, bye.

Jeff, I'll try calling around, how do you coax the swarm out?

I have some honeybees which have taken up under our roofing shingles right under the peak. Every day for a week I squirted a little bit - just an entsie wentsie bit of flying insect pesticide in the hole. Killed about 200 bees, but one morning I went out there and in a scene straight out of an Alfred Hitchcock movie, that am they were all milling around eyeballing me. That day, as I'd been hoping - the swarm moved on. Gone, totally. Not a bee left. Whhooo Hoooooooooo! For 2 days they were gone anyway. Today they returned. Short of a nuculear blast of pesticide, is there any way to get them to move on without destroying the roof? I'm not kidding it's the truth- we have honey dripping down the side of the house from the 3rd story to the ground...hmmmmmm............honey....ummmmm with pesticide mixed in,....hmmmmm............ What kind of an eviction notice should we issue?

\ Make sure you get a recipe with it hound, if not cooked correctly them damn tings is tough.