billcoe

Without Nolse around we are like bees without a Queen. I'll try though. If we have some beginers, we might go over "Here", if it's just you, me and the hound then we will go "There". Since this is all dependant on who shows up, both how many and also their skill level, we might just show up and see who gets there. I'd rather preplan and head to a spot which will minimise time lost. Otherwise, if it's just us, and since my wrist is coming back, we should do Phylx and the offwidth right there (1st choice for #1 pump) or Crack Warrior. Can your girlfriend get up 11? Base of Birds/White Rabbit is good for larger groups who do 10s, Silver Bullet has a couple of easier routes if that's needed too. Course, Vertical Therapy still has some wasps if anyone gets there first with a can of raid. How about White Rabbit area?

I wanna be you! Damn.

Annes Deli on the corner of 82nd and Fremont (inside the building attached to the south of the Shell Gasstation) should be supported by everybody. They're great folks, struggling immigrants from Vietmam, have amazing sandiches, such as the lemon grass beef (large) on an authentic French style roll for $2.50. The Beef Pho (soup) is great if you like Vietnamese Soup too. I could live there. Cash only, close at 7pm most days and you don't get it as fast as McDonalds either. .

Don't lock it till we see Mikes GIRL pics Godddammit! Sheeeseeeee! Mike see you tonight. Whatyawanttodo ? Sheclimbhowhardetcetc.

Glad you and Mark escaped. I more reason to live on the internet eh? I propose a joint mission to exteminate the vermin. Tomorrow. Bring a can of wasp spray. Then....we climb. ? After work, approx 5:45-6pm? Show of hands?

Just finished "King Leopolds Ghost" while in Vegas, exellent choice Carl and JayB. Exellent book. Got hooked and couldn' put it down. For historical works, reading like a novel is rare. Barbra Tuchman pulled it off with the "Guns of August", but that might be it. thanks for the recomendation. More? BTW, to whoever recommended "Q", .............IT SUCKED! Couldn't finish it....drivel.

I'm in Vegas, somebody turn the Friggan heat down eh?

Ouch: Guilty as charged. __________________________________________________________ Wish I had your money. Hey, wish I had your brains too. ______________________________________________________________ Hey, Mother Teresa ran around doing considerate and nice things for the poor people who had so very little....it was meant as a good thing. Besides, asking the wife is a bad idea. I'd get further asking you for the money before she'd give it to me, we don't co-mingle money. We only get glimpses into how much the other has during tax time.

Calm down dude, 90 percent of the bidding is done 2 min before it closes. You'll get your nut, relax.

Thank you: you are indeed the Mother Teresa of Gear Whores. Is it a better design?

2 issues: www.Mgear.com is selling Aliens in the $40 range. The say they are closeouts. This is the company which paid, out of their own pocket, to test the dimpled aliens which resulted in that recall. If you are planning on buys Aliens we should support this company and you will get a great price. They are honorable, fast and cheap. Good people. It appears that CCh will be replacing the metal sheath with a nylon/perlon sheath. I'd seen a pic of one on RC.com and suspect (am guessing) that that is the reason for the Mgear closeouts. Has anybody seen or tested this? It is reportedly lighter and more flexible. Anyone know anything? Next issue: person on RC.com reports that the Grey Alien he just bought in fact had a grey sling but the lobes were the Yellow Alien size. (You can almost hear the "DOHHS" in Wyoming all the way over here!) he has pics with a digital caliper to confirm. I don't know if that in any way tweaks the piece although I suspect not, the pro is suppose to all be tensile tested before it leaves the factory, the last ones I got (mgear closeout 2 days ago) were all stamped saying such. They are pulling them at a fairly high load. (data on CCH web site if you are interested). Regards to all Bill

Hola Stewart, I remember it fondly. Shit, you're a local. I grew up on the corner of 78th and Fremont till we moved closer yet at 86th and Duddleson (2 blks south of Fremont). Starting with the classics and what a coinkidink! I saw Jason out Tue and we took turns on Toothpick. (This is the Jason with the Red and Yellow tape right? ) Ask him about the wasps nest below Vertical Therapy! Before my time on the bolts Stewart. I don't really know the history well at all and hardly remember any bolts anywhere on that route. I was told by Joe Prinz that all the routes through that area were done occasionally as practice aid from the 50's on. So when your fingers plug into those nice soft finger slots on Birds for instance, you can thank the piton bashing pioneers who must have been dodging the quarry guard. It could be there was no guard until they stopped quarrying, but he was there and shooting at my tresassing brothers and I @ 1966 for sure. There is an identical rusty 1/4 Rawl stud bolt ladder with no hangers between the WR Buttress and Birds too - thats been there since before my time too. You might ask Jim Davis, he's a great guy, lives in Bend area and as far as I know still climbs (my info is old old old though). Didn't he do the FA with Jeff Thomas in 72-73? In either case, there was never any hangers on them that I was aware of, and Jim and Jeff would have just nutted the thing I'm sure, they both kicked ass as strong climbers and wouldn't have placed a bolt to FFA it. You coming out tonight for some laps?

You bet KG - bring the rope, I can drag mine to the base for leading Glenns route and Superman crack (if John brings his C3's) and we'll use yours to TR Fandango or Jack of Hearts or something.

Errr, Silver Bullet @6pm. I have 1 rope.

Never heard from the out of town folks so I don't know if they'll show. Silver Bullet Bluff tonight OK for everyone? About 1/2 the people from Tue said they were showing up Thurs do it might get crowded some. I don't know if it was moving boxes or Toothpick, but I still feel worked. Whos in? KG, you gonna weasel out? Bring ropes.

Welcome to Cascasde Climbers. Great pictures and well written story. Might need to remind John that the lattes are in the morning and beer is in the afternoon , looks like he might have mixed them up again! I suspect thats a result of stumbling out of bed all disorineted from the night before Thanks for sharing! God I love pictures of granite.

Joseph, you get the biggest pat on the back for: 1) thinking to put it on the internet. 2) paying for the U-Haul from your own pocket. Great hanging with you all.

Wish I had some pics of you wandering over on the FA and trying to cram the pro and force the route over that other huge roof on the right (which will probably still unled when they put me in the dirt). You got stones dude. Watching you go for that unclimbed 10 foot roof several times made my boyz shrivel and my palms sweat. Really. Nice job, nice effort!

Actually, I must have been looking at the pics of you as I didn't notice anything wrong with the discription of the route. "Lowe ball pitch". "Joseph styling the roof" I have some pics of Karsten pulling the crux I'll look around for them. I was saying that you need a boat anchor or more gear on pic #2 if you ever want to get a real workout on these FA's.

I'd heard about Layton and Marcus going up there too and doing a second ascent. Probably lost. Lost Warriors. Actually I was kidding earlier about adding bolts so somebody will do the route. I saw Karston wrote it up for Mountain Project here in case anyone wants to read about it-----------> Lost Warriors described We should trundle all the sh*t off of the little corner there and make a direct start off the ground. Probably 5.5 or so once the dirt is off. BTW, Kevin, RR looks relatively clean and moss free. Shane dude (and Jill) cleaned it up and gardened some last Sat. If he gets a vote, Shane, when asked what his thoughts were, would prefer leaving the bolt there. Better than augering into the dirt if you boff it from up high. I don't think he'd be offended if you want to yank it though. Course, I heard that dude supposedly leads hard 11 trad....but there's one vote for leaving the bolt in the 5.9 route from a guy who styles hard stuff but isn't online if that matters to anyone.

It's got to be better than using crack N' Ups and Ball-Nuts like you did! Might see a 2nd ascent eventually if you toss in a bolt or 2!

Thanks dude, good eye: I put it on Rockclimbing.com as well.

Speaking for myself only: I agree that being more inclusive is a good thing. Everybody who climbs out there with any kind of regularity and loves the place should have a voice. Nobody should be discouraging anybody, no matter what their location. So you know, I don’t think anybody in Washington see's this as an “Oregon vs Washington” issue. Plenty of Washington residents have posted on this thread and not brought it up till you did. I doubt that the sport climbing thing will never happen at Beacon, but having some bolted routes available on the East Face would be interesting IMO. There’s plenty of existing routes there now, we should be climbing on them. I like the idea of thinking, planning and discussing before putting in new bolts and routes. (I have been guilty of not doing this previosly, my bad) South side routes are already pretty crowded, if someone wanted to put a bolt line inbetween 2 cracks which are 5 feet apart, I think about everyone would take exception ot it. It is, however, the stupid offensive kind of thing a Noob gym climber will do. I suspect that some of the “petty arguments” you mention, the various complaints and yelling at others, are that things are just being done, and then concerned climbers who would like to be involved and have a voice are later told about it AFTER IT IS DONE, and not the reverse, that may be the real issue here. Reading it on the internet may be just the last step of the kick in the nuts process these folks see. Nah, but ring us up when you get down again Peter if you want to hang out or need a belay.

Super, all we need now is people. I understand Jim has gotten lots of it already, so maybe we'll mostly just be drink beer.

Tell us about that Ivan! I'd pick that time and place carefully or plan on seeing what it looks like under an ice block. That Elliot icefall idea is a real good idea for getting in some great ice climbing in a (realativly) safe environment.