billcoe

Yup. Weasel infestation all over the place after work tonight.....and bats too. Ask me about the bats next time. Have you obverved that rock that is right above where you folks drytool? I figure one of you must be digging the dirt out from behind it to get the route below clean......but ......you folks might choose to trundle it before it decides to cut loose on its own. Most likely it's not going anywhere, but you never know. I would estimate the weight somewhere well over 500 lbs, certainly enough that we won't need to be having a "well, he had his helmet on" discussion after the fact in the unlikely event that it chooses to roll on its own accord. I have walkie-talkies for communication if you want to station somebody below to watch out for the unwary and see if a tap with a prybar is enough to make it slide off. I've been surprised out there just climbing along a couple of times to just pull on some apparently stable block with my hand just normally and have it slide right towards my head. Have a prybar too.......And enthusiasm as well. Maybe it wants to stay put, I was unroped, and just kicked it with my foot and didn't see any movement....but didn't want to push hard and take the ride to the base with it. Something to keep an eye out for. Hope it's cool in PHX for ya John, it's probably @ 72-75 degrees with the sun out and dry today FYI.

I'll be there, probably silver bullet at 6pm as I'll be with 1 or 2 friends who would want that area. You and Jaben are more than welcome to join us there (or vice versa whatever). Same for the rest of you rock weasels. Feel free to join us. Hi John!

Matt, I wind up having to just shut the F* up on all this stuff in the end anyway when somebody gets rude and tells me to just shut the F* up, so I probably should do it now, but here goes then I'm done. 2 issues, this book will be for people coming for a week or 2 of special vacation from say, Switzerland, or some equally strange place who only want to bang out the best climbs. You think they will figure out these insider nuances, but hey, they're Swiss for Gods sake. Won't happen for some folks. As far as this 1 description goes, he talks about the crux 13C tips, but then discussed 12D at the start and 5.10 to finish, no talk of what you are looking at with that. There could be 200 feet of 4" wide crack. When Watts first did it, he described the crux as very technical jamming. I could see Euros buying in to Teresngas description and bringin wide gear. Maybe not. But it seem rude as hell to assume everyone will just catch the little joke and not get F*in the ass IMO. I don't have a problem with JT generally, and I suspect he's a great guy in person: but I will say that in this instance, it seems like an attempt at an outsider to cash in on the internationalism of the place for a quick buck, and it will serve to concentrate people on the better routes, thus screwing over the locals. (Not that any dudes from Der Schweitz are complaining. ) I probably come off as quite the whinner there! Sigh: C'est la Vie!

Not the nodder, head is too still.

Well, that qualifies you to be vice president. Try harder and that 7.5lber is right around the corner. BTW, Bushs parody of himself at the press club the other day was both brave and humorous IMO.

If somebody told me to bring Big bros and big cams to do a route, I'd be buying them for sure before traveling 3000 miles to a strange locale. Thats the high ticket stuff too. Like 60 a piece or so x 10 pieces = $600 us, or $4,000 Canadian. Thats a long way too, 3000 miles is like ...........hmmmmmmmmmmm 5 million Kilometers or so, (calculated for our friends to the north), pretty far. (course I already have the tube chocks and big hexes)

Thanks for the link. What a bunch of shit. Check out the gear list for the East Face of Monkee. I quote: "For Gear, bring loads of jumbo fist-sized cams, big bros, #11 hexes.......oh, and maybe a couple of RP's." Attempt at being "humorous" ?? How would you like to buy and haul all that huge crap over from Europe or Oz and find out that the biggest piece on the entire route is a single 3/4" and you are about 12 RPS short of even getting on the first pitch if you backclean? HA HA HA NOT What an asshole. I hope that the Watts book comes out soon and these dudes lose money.

Yes, it's steeper and longer than anything in Minnesota eh.

Explain?

33 gms, gate open strength 10kn for the Wild Country VS only 8kn for the Simond.

Have not used them. 50gm is kind of heavy eh? Gate open strength 8kn.

The thing has grown 15' since that was publishd yesterday. The rumor is that next week there will be a new guidebook out that will encompass the new lines and a sit start on one of the middle routes.

Add sloe gin and beer, get in a sleeping bag and vomit all over yourself in an unconcious state, along with peeing multiple times in your sleeping bag of course, and I got that one covered a couple of times. But those don't even barely make my top stupidist things I done list.

You found Dwayner!

If you're thinking of the double fatality of the Outward bound instructors on Trezlar in 1986, those people did it to themselves. 100% Was there another one? That's a great 2nd crux pitch, very well protected. ____________________________________________________ Like Gary, although I rarely get to Smith, sometimes it amazes me to show up wanting to climb midrange cracks and see them pretty much empty. Parking lot is full. I wonder if it's just maybe more people are climbing in the gorge on those days, coupled with less people wanting to climb cracks? (see Garys thread on Karate Crack hangdogging) BTW Dru, what do you say about the recent infomation which suggests that the "alledged" unplanned bivy on Amphetimine Grip may have been a planned attempt to get on Super Slab at 5:00 am to avoid the crowds.

Isn't posting on ST and here also is like having dual citizenship and a No-No? BTW, my stance in general is "Live free or die". I feel that should embrace all of us assholes, and even a hemoroid like Loomis.

Nope, I've known some badasses and they ALL worked pretty hard at it. (If doing something you just love could be considered work). They did it a lot too.

Lame and hair loss? No Shit, thats me!

Climbing outside in the sunshine on real rock sucks. Come climb the same 3 16' routes on plywood in my garage. I'll bet 2 things: 1st) Nats got more than 3 routes in the garage. 2nd) If he went out to the top of the Butte with with a crash pad and a serious boulderer, not some pussy like me, he'd forget all about his garage. Except, that he can climb and visit with family right there, probably doesn't get any better than that.

I have a hard time believing someone can actually screw a chicken at all. Obviously a sheltered life Rog.

I need to look at this further. Gas has gone up, as has trucking anything anywhere. Stores are passing that onto consumers. House prices and cars have gone up. The Consumer price index was up .4% in March alone. Will, what do you recommend for investments, given the current climate.

That's Fowl.

Motherfuckers are reaming us poor people out again. The bonds are tied to inflation. WTF?

Kirby, thats you? Hi guy!

I get it now. Sorry Gary, see, when I said I'm slow I wasn't talking climbing. I'm a bit thick, apologies extended. I really thought you were slamming some poor bastard you didn't know. BTW, does now indicate humorous intent? I thought that was like or or ? Hmmm........... Well, I'm out of here: