billcoe

I get it now. I saw the earlier post and didn't understand. Somebodys about to try something new and unusual....aren't they? Go get em Mikey, my moneys on you all the way. __________________________________________________________ Deep breath, shake, relax, ...go for it. Repeat as necessary.

Cut in front of you? Carrying all that extra horsehit like heavy litters, extra ropes, pullys, steel this and that - they must have been a larger group, they just "cut in front of you"?! Wow. I thought I was old, fat and slow, but you must be real slow dude. I suspect SAR has a version of this as well. Having been on that side of the fence, I think it's rare for folks like that to be dismissive and rude. My experience has been the opposite. Sorry you had a bad experince, but I'm glad they are training as well. Hope you got some good routes in anyway.

Uhhh,..... cause Joseph or Jim had stuck it in the day before and I was too lazy to change it! Nah, seriously, looking at the pic makes me cringe cause that block looks loose (in the picture). 1st thing I did when I got down there and saw it was look at the base rock carefully (it looked better from the other directions) then yard hard on that hex bodyweight plus several directions. I saw no movement. At all. The rest of the story was that there were 3 equalized pieces, the others looked signifigantly better, being a LA driven to the hilt in solid rock and a cam in a separate solid crack. And now you know......the rest of the story. The next rap station for cleaning was interesting. I think the 3rd dude with JH and I was a bit edgy. I had a real solid A0 nut, 2-3 feet away in another crack a A0 cam and the bottom of the rope from the higher anchor I just detailed all tied in and equalized. 3 solid pieces, one of them a rope tied to 3 solid pices 150 feet up. I clipped my line and another to it (JH set his own rope on another set of anchors), but when I jugged back up to lower all the shit down and drop some ropes (JH had like 80 lbs in his haul sac alone) , I saw that the other fella had removed his line from my biners, put in like 6 pieces, and added 2 daisy chains off my stuff for backups. I was thinking that I was glad not to be on a wall trying to break that collection down every pitch. I never saw that chockstone with the runner BTW. Looks like the earlier hex would have fit as well.

I was up there the following day and we fixed a rope and rapped on that hex.

98 percent certain I was stung last Saturday out at Beacon by a Scorpion, twice, on my left hand. Hardly have ever seen them in my whole life if you exclude the one my brother kept alive in the house as a pet when I was a kid. It never stung anyone either and sometimes he'd let it walk on his hand. Very interesting thing.....Still hurts in both places from infection 6 days later. I never did see the scorpion, if thats what it was, and didn't even think of it till later. One hand on the brake rope on rappel, the other reaching to sweep a (some) loose rock. Bam, pulled my left hand back expecting to be pulling out a bee-stinger with my teeth. But no stinger. I looked at the finger and saw nothing. Figured I'd hit a bramble of some kind. Reach out to the same place and wham, get poked on the left side of my palm. (insert obligatory Homer Simpson "DOHHS" here) The finger actually formed a blister, and both spots burned and hurt all day. Very similar to a more painful bee sting, except that it endured much longer. No blood anywhere, couldn't see the hole then either. You can see 2 scabbed areas now, approx .093 across, and red with a little infection. Sunday, I don't know if from this, or the fact that we worked our asses off Saturday (and I'm old and out of shape at 51), or that I had a cold, but I slept in Sunday (It's very rare for me to do that), and took a 3 hour nap, and felt lethargic all day anyway. I had been planning on getting out until I tried to roll out of bed that morning and was too tired. Anywhooo, thought I'd share. I find it interesting, if it bore's you just go back to reading spray on bombing N Korea or attend to your regularly scheduled newscast.

Damn I got me a good woman. (1st wife)

Saturday, I have chores (&^#*@@@@@@XX?!!!!!!!!! with all the F*en chores! I'm getting old and want to get free time &@$XX%* but will go for sure in the am when I get free. First wife has given verbal OK and encouragement. Second wife, such a beautiful crag (1st wifes words), awaits. I'm hoping there by 11am. Cell phones in AM. Thinking of you all now. Having to climb tonight without me....sigh....

Hey, me too. I need to haul some stuff to the dump in the am, I was gonna look at picking up Jimmy O on the way when I finished. You want to pick up Jimmy O and meet me there? I'm open for about anything.

Supurb Paul! Welcome back. Your other partner drop you or did you not pay a gambling debt? Nevermind, I'll get the story Sun!

Ahhhh, the joys of coming back from an injury.... Sat? Blownout?

Ryland, nice to hear from you about this. I was thinking of getting something in Costa Rica as well soon. There is large Ex-pat community there and you generally don't hear bad stories...... ?? Like to hear the product of you results John when you winnow out the results and information.

Can't tomorrw but I look to be stuck in town Sunday if anyone is interested in a spot of climbing at RButte sometime Sunday.

Not me dude, I've aspired to be a yeoman though. Now I'm too old to join the union. But you're welcome anyway. I must like throwing rocks, which explains both my cleaning penchant recently at the Butte and maybe why I was out at Beacon last Saturday. Chunked some nice ones off ala Bigfoot style, as did everybody. Ground crew said some were clearing the railroad tracks. Big guy like you can lay the smack down if you see these jackals next time! (Better yet, if anybody sees these jackasses, just call 503-823-3333) But maybe this big loud 3 ring circus that they've been conducting appearantly daily is hopefully over. It sucks to clean up some glass one day and show up a few days later and see 3 times as much in the same spot. Hey Seth, thought you were heading to do some real climbing at Beacon yesterday? You get high centered in the bar? Should have figured out a way to hitch a ride Tue. with us. Ivan and Jim were out there or you could have tagged along and climbed with us, but I needed to do some leading, so maybe just following eh? Next time maybe.

That psyco putz General Douglas MacArthur had that idea and you see where that led. Preemptive stikes will make the world a less safe, not a safer place to live IMO. From the N Korean viewpoint, we have them targeted 6 ways to Sunday with nuclear weapons, both icbm and tactical warheads mounted on Lance Missles and artillery rounds. We are still at war and trying to destablize their regime. I like the idea of a live full blown test of the intercept missle program in the event diplomacy fails. Might provide some assurances and keep the Japanese from heading the direction of the nuclear club as well.

Nice job! Wheres the TR? And that is so much more than a drill too: 36V of raging power! _________________________________________________________ (BTW, Sgt Schultz, Paul Harvey re your questions) E-mailed an update to the school so that they would be in the loop. Have not heard back as of 6/23/06

I did not realise someone was being dissed till now. Regards: bill

Gary, 2nd one for me. _____________________________________________________ Can the dragon shoot fire? If so, I'd say dragon. Otherwise, I go with the bear if its a Kodiak or Grizzly.

You knocking the big rocks off which John had mentioned are by the hiking trail? Nevermind, that's today. I was thinking it was amost time to burn a day off work and get some miles on real rock....sorry, too late. But, BTW, never told you this, but watching you solo 5.10 is always worthwhile! The first time I saw you doing that (yw) I was surprised to see someone my age cranking at such a high level whom I did not know.

I remember the lynch mob that seemed to form on this site when it was alledged that Marko and Brooke had put in a rap bolt or 3 on Garfield (I think) for a new route. That seems too strident for my taste as well. Glad the angry personal posts then, and now, got deleted: thanks mods. The world seems upside down and everybody switched sides it appears. Joe, lifes too short to be so strident. Come on. Interesting idea de Jour for you: ask Dean Caldwell his thoughts and see if he recommends lightening up some. Happy to report that based on an earlier post I have 1 offer to let me lead all the pitches on IB and they will accompany me on the route, so I might want a topo myself. -Those are my morals, standards and ethics and if you don't like them I have others-

Sorry, didn't see this: short version. No fee. Gov made fee go away. I saw Park folks John and Gabe Tue, and to reiterate what Joseph said, they were talking that there were some big assed loose rocks somewhere in the trail vicinity (I think) . They sounded like they were going to close the whole thing, including the hiking trail, for a day. If anyone wants to put in some time to assist, I'll bet they could use it. Ask JH, he's the unpaid organizer for out there.

Well he did the cake, that must have been work!

You bastard! You snuck out and did some real climbing that didn't involve dirt and beer bottles without us! Well, I wouldn't go _that_ far. We were still at the butte, and just clipping bolts, so.... Thank you for assuaging my feelings! But wait! Theres still bolts out there?! news flash! ___________________________________________________ You led Emotional Rescue, didn't you, you dog! Congrats! I'm sure you wouldn't be bragging about being sore on Nolses (John F's) new route, named interestingly and appropriatly enough "Glenns Route" a short 5.7 clip up with 3 bolts? (Now I'm embarrased as I was out for some real climbing after work on Tue. )

For the same ethical reasons avoid treking in Nepal at all costs. You sleep in. Have someone cook you breakfast while you laze around like a rich man's cat. Walk for an hour or 2, with some poor skinny shoeless 80 lb Sherpa carrying your 80 lbs of gear. Have someone cook you lunch and attend to your needs and wants. Walk for another hour or 2. Have someone cook you dinner while you wait for the 80 lb porter to stagger up with your worldly possesions. The sum total dollar amount cost which is higher than said porter will make in his entire life. Drink after dinner beer, they will open them for you. Repeat as necessary. The extent of your involvement in all this is repeatedly reaching for your wallet, which understandably gets lighter and easier to handle as you gain elevation.

You bastard! You snuck out and did some real climbing that didn't involve dirt and beer bottles without us! _________________________________________________

Hola Hemp, I saw you guys too but didn't know who you were! There were some other people over at the top of video as well just finishing up and they didn't see this go down either. It has to be well in excess of 200 bottles over the edge (judging from the empty carboard Corona and Henrys containers) and busted up since the access fund clean up not quite 2 months ago. Pretty amazing. __________________________________________________________ Nah, not me, I've cleaned up too much crap out there to now start busting a bunch of bottles on my routes so that I can cut my fingers ala Iggy Pop while I climb. (Iggy Pop had a stage act-rock show where he would often rip his shirt off and roll around onstage on broken glass). Beside that, I can assure you that if it had been me there would be NO Henrys bottles, just microbrew bottles and some 2 buck chuck tossed as well. ________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________ Thanks Hemp, but it wasn't me by myself, although I tried to work it out with these guys. In the end I couldn't do it on my own, and I'm embarrassed to admit that until I thought of calling the police I had worked through @ 10 different strategies... some involving firearms and a wicked nasty looking shorty tactical 12 ga. shotgun I possess. Stupid me. A simple phone call and I get unlimited firepower and trained people with them as well. _______________________________________________________ Theres plenty all over at the Butte, but I was out at Beacon Tuesday with Bryan (Powderhound). It looked like a carpet even in the deeping gloom of twilight. We climbed first 2P of YW, and first 2P of Cruisemaster/Corner. The oak is right off trail below Cruisemaster. See Ivans line , he was there too, and a brief interpretation of his sentence is that it was pretty good, and we probably knew that already. ______________________________________________________ Thanks Allison, you guys were fun too, love to set up routes with you. Join in anytime. Sorry to hear about the cigarette but being thrown on you, these guys toss butts down as well. BTW, Sometimes I will just wander over to a crack while waiting for a turn to climb and will stuff gear in just because I like to do it. You are welcome to do that as well. I will endevor to spell your name correctly from here on out..................but if I could just remember my kids birthdays now........